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Discussion Starter #1
went for a ride this morning and got stranded witha dead battery,battery is brand new and just reaired all my sator wires..with bike running I have 13.5V at all 3 stator wires going into the R/R,i have 12.5v coming out but not on the brown wire that one reads a flat 5v...im assuming this means I need a new rectifier/regulator?..if so does anyone know if there is anyplace to get one for less than $100-$120? thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
ok correction at an idle i get 5V on the brown wire but as i raise the rpm's it climbs to about 12.5v is that normal? thanks
 

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Patriot Guard Rider
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Copied from the Vulcan Verses.

- How to check out the R/R

If you have the Kawasaki Service Manual, you will find R/R checkout on page 15-18. If you don't I will list what is there for you. Quoted from the manual as much as possible: Regulator/Rectifier Inspection Remove the left side cover. Pull out the connector. Be sure to set the hand tester to the 100 ohm range and zero the meter(Not necessary on a digital meter) Check the resistance between the regulator/rectifier terminals as follows(there is a chart and picture in the manual which I cannot reproduce right now but I will try to put it in words for you)

A1 A2 A3 All Alternator Terminals --- --- --- Connector with pins facing you and notch at bottom --- --- ---

G M B G = Ground M = Monitor B = Battery --|__|-- (Hope that came across right)

Measure B to M - should read infinity

Measure B to G - should read infinity

Measure B to A1, A2, A3 - should read infinity

Measure M to B - should read > 10K ohm Measure

M to G - should read > 10K ohm

Measure M to A1, A2, A3 - should read > 10K ohm

Measure G to B - should read between 0.4 to 2K ohm

Measure G to M - should read between 1 to 5K ohm

Measure G to A1, A2, A3 - should read 0.2 to 0.6K ohm(200 to 600 ohm)

Measure A1, A2, A3 to B - should read 0.2 to 0.6K ohm(200 to 600 ohm)

Measure A1, A2, A3 to M - should read infinity

Measure A1, A2, A3 to G - should read infinity

If there is more resistance than the specified value, the unit has an open lead and must be replaced. Much less than this resistance means the unit is shorted, and must be replaced. Hope this helps someone out there. Dan Morgan
 

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13V from the stator does not sound correct. Was this 13VDC? The votage from the stator would be AC. With the bike warmed up and up on the RPMS from what ive read here you should be getting 50-70 VAC. You need to recheck this if you were testing for DC voltage. If the voltage is incorrect you need to check the continuity of the stator. Reading between each of the stator leads (stator lead -stator lead) I would say you should have 1-3 OHMS. Between each of the stator leads to ground you should have an open (no continuity). If these readings are bad I would say you have a bad stator. If thats the case most on here goes with Tim Parrot for a stator repair (rewind) $85.00. I would replace the R/R as well since it is possible it contributed to the stator failing. Again most people on here says to go with a Mosfet R/R kit $124.00. I just replaced my stator and R/R. Here is a quick check that could be because of a bad stator, does your headlight work when the bike is running?
 

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Old Truck Junkie
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You should get 13+ at the bat with the rpm at about 14k. Be sure to check all the grounds especiall close to the bat.
I had a problem, I took out the stator connection an soldered the the wires together problem solved.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok at risk of sounding real dumb..lol do I un plugh the R/R and test the plug going to the regulator?
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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You should get 13+ at the bat with the rpm at about 14k. Be sure to check all the grounds especiall close to the bat.
I had a problem, I took out the stator connection an soldered the the wires together problem solved.
14k rpm? :wow: I think you mean 4k. :doh: Right niterider? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have actually removed the R/R and have it right here infront of me..lol It seems that no matter how i test it i dont seem to be getting any readings close to the list
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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ok at risk of sounding real dumb..lol do I un plugh the R/R and test the plug going to the regulator?
I think you can.

I would try it first, but if you get low voltage or high resisitance readings on the lead to lead tests I would pull the bullet connectors apart on the yellow stator leads and retest directly at that point. Look for corrosion or burnt wires/insulation at the bullet connectors. :smiley_th
 

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I can never get those readings right, no matter how many times I've tried.

I'm forgetting, but how much have you had the bike on the road since you got it? Is this the first major ride? Just trying to get a sense of whether the bike "came" this way, or if something may have happened today.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have only had the bike a few weeks and today was the farthest I have ridden it..But i am beginning to think that it may be the battery....even tho its brand new I have drawn it down pretty good a few times before I re routed,replaced and soldered all the connections for my stator wiring..Now I am getting a stong 13.5-14V at the battery with the bike running and rpm's up above 4k and it drops to 12.5-13+ at an idle so everything seems to be working...I am beginning to wonder if I should just pull it apart and go through all the wiring from front to back..lol
 

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I have actually removed the R/R and have it right here infront of me..lol It seems that no matter how i test it i dont seem to be getting any readings close to the list
I can never get those readings right, no matter how many times I've tried.
When doing the R/R test you need to use an Analog meter like the Kawasaki meter to get the results specified in the Factory Service Manual (or Clymers). Meters measure resistance by applying a small current (~ 1 mA) through the test leads and then measure voltage drop. The R/R contains diodes & SCR's which do not behave like resistors when measuring resistance. Different meters can have a different internal design and give different results.

I recently tested my R/R using a old Analog meter and two Harbor Freight Digital meters. The readings I got with the Analog meter were close to the table in the manual. The Digital meters (set on the 200 Ohm scale) mostly read infinite for all tests. When testing resistance, the H-F meters applied a different voltage to their leads than the Analog meter. And that voltage changed with the range that was selected. To add to the confusion, the polarity, + & -, of the leads were reversed from the Analog meter. Its no wonder that using such a meter gives confusing and inconsistent results compared with the Kawasaki table.

I did find that the "Diode Test" feature on the H-F digital meter to be useful. It measures the forward voltage drop of a diode. By measuring each of the A1, A2, A3 pins to the G (ground) pin on the R/R you should get a reading of about 540 mVolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
now that number sounds about right...on the A1,A2and A3 leads i was getting a 537-543 number..lol i am glad to know that Im not the only one who has some difficulty getting the readings..lol thanks again to everyone
 
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