Kawasaki VN750 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 41 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

After much cussing and such I was finally able to get my replacement driveshaft coupling in place (had to order another pair of Klein circlip pliers-- long story) but after reassembling everything this weekend (and finding the spring from inside the coupling had been left out, and disassembling and reassembling everything again) I found that:

a) I had successfully diagnosed and repaired the original problem-- the bike can move under it's own power again!

b) I still can't ride it because something is binding in the back and the wheel will only turn with lots of throttle and will not turn freely at all, forward or backward, with the bike in neutral.

Look at the attached photo, and notice the metal skivings around the hub. I think I know what happened but I'd like fresh eyes to have a look and let me know your thoughts. I removed the large circular snap ring to remove and lube the rear wheel coupler and believed that I got everything seated proper-like but now I'm not sure.

Thoughts? Besides get a better mechanic, I mean. I really want to know how this bike works and can't afford the shop anyway, but it would be nice to ride again before the now falls!

Thanks guys,

Matt
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,236 Posts
Hey guys,

After much cussing and such I was finally able to get my replacement driveshaft coupling in place (had to order another pair of Klein circlip pliers-- long story) but after reassembling everything this weekend (and finding the spring from inside the coupling had been left out, and disassembling and reassembling everything again) I found that:

a) I had successfully diagnosed and repaired the original problem-- the bike can move under it's own power again!

b) I still can't ride it because something is binding in the back and the wheel will only turn with lots of throttle and will not turn freely at all, forward or backward, with the bike in neutral.

Look at the attached photo, and notice the metal skivings around the hub. I think I know what happened but I'd like fresh eyes to have a look and let me know your thoughts. I removed the large circular snap ring to remove and lube the rear wheel coupler and believed that I got everything seated proper-like but now I'm not sure.

Thoughts? Besides get a better mechanic, I mean. I really want to know how this bike works and can't afford the shop anyway, but it would be nice to ride again before the now falls!

Thanks guys,

Matt
You don't have any spacers in the wrong places or missing, do you?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,236 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Don't think so...

Thanks for the reply.

I don't think I am missing anything, but it took me so long to do this project (work, weather, no garage, tracking down parts, etc) that I can't be sure. I was very meticulous about all that but it doesn't mean I didn't miss something.

What I should also mention is that this is a replacement final drive mated to my previous wheel, presumably there is no risk of a mismatch between different model years, I was assured this would be a 1:1 swap.

I didn't force anything, it all went together easily once I was finally ready to reassemble it, but before I take it all apart again, most likely not until Saturday at the earliest, I wanted to get as many opinions as possible as to what to look out for.

Thanks!

Matt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
helpful!

Thanks for that. I have the service manual but having it here helps with the discussion.

I didn't remove the bearings or anything, all I did was remove the snap ring and the rear wheel coupler so I could lube it according tot he guidance in the manual and Fergy's spline lube procedure. Now that I have a spare wheel I was planning on rebuilding that one completely over the winter and clean it up nicer than what I have, then when I swap 'em out next year and check the progress on my spline lube I would have the whole back of the bike neat and tidy so I can concentrate on the other parts of the bike that need attention.

Besides the driveshaft coupling replacement, essentially, all I did was remove the axle, remove the entire rear wheel, swap final drives (and remove and lube the wheel coupler) snap 'em back together again, reinsert the axle, and attempt to drive it. I don't recognize the part 92027A, the collar that goes within the bearing, because I didn't take anything like that out so that ought to be there, and besides, the shavings are from the outer circumference...I'm more inclined to think I screwed up with the large snap ring and it is binding things up.

Thanks!

Matt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
any idea which spacer?

looks like you left a spacer out from inside the drum.
Thanks for the observation, but I don't recall taking anything out that didn't go back in, I put all the parts in a bucket and there is nothing left to put back in, could it have been a piece which is still attached to my old final drive. or do you mean the brake drum side? I didn't touch that side.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
That was my first thought

you think you might have over tightened the rear brake?
I thought that might be the case but I ruled it out, I backed the brake tensioner all the way out and there is nothing but free play in the brake pedal...plus the metal shavings are coming from the final drive side of the wheel, not the brake side. I wish it were that simple!

I appreciate your help, though...thanks!

Matt
 

·
Crap, I WAS in 5th gear.
Joined
·
500 Posts
Part number 92025 is a factory select shim to account for the tolerance stackup of all the components. You need to select a thicker one! The purpose of the shim/shims is to adjust the gear spacing- they are probably preloaded right now and binding- not to mention the obvious interference with the hub. Perhaps you can use the one off the other drive, or you left it out altogether- it happens.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
10,354 Posts
Try calling Wolfie....lol...he'd come right over I bet....

...who said that ????....

...you been missin a lotta nice rides, bro....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
We have a winner?

Part number 92025 is a factory select shim to account for the tolerance stackup of all the components. You need to select a thicker one! The purpose of the shim/shims is to adjust the gear spacing- they are probably preloaded right now and binding- not to mention the obvious interference with the hub. Perhaps you can use the one off the other drive, or you left it out altogether- it happens.

Hey Kelly, it sure sounds like this is the likely culprit. I will check out that P/N and se if I can scavenge the other one, hope I didn't goof anything up too bad. Might take a few days before the stars align again and it will be good weather when I am not busy with work and my other obligations, hopefully this weekend.

Cheers,

Matt
 

·
Old Truck Junkie
Joined
·
4,133 Posts
A while back some one, don't member whom, did this job and lost the inside spacer. He found it with the tools or under the tool box. Anyway the spacer was lost and had the very same problem you are having.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
yeah, I know...

Try calling Wolfie....lol...he'd come right over I bet....

...who said that ????....

...you been missin a lotta nice rides, bro....
Yeah, I know, Wolfie, I had to get here on my own, though. Hard to make plans to work on a bike with someone when I'm not even sure 10 minutes from now where I'll be an a half hour. When time presents itself I just have to take it and go with it. Thanks for the offer, all I can say is I have to wait and see what the week has in store for me before I can plan my next move
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
any idea which one?

A while back some one, don't member whom, did this job and lost the inside spacer. He found it with the tools or under the tool box. Anyway the spacer was lost and had the very same problem you are having.
I'm looking in the PDF parts manual I downloaded thanks to someone else on the forum and see tons of listings for shims labeled 92025, like Kelly referenced in his reply, but pretty much every shim is known by that number with a suffix denoting the size and where on the bike it goes. So far I am unable to find the ones for the rear drive, at least in an exploded diagram, to be able to see where they are supposed to go..Any idea where I can see that?

Thanks,

Matt
 

·
Old Truck Junkie
Joined
·
4,133 Posts
Take apart and see if the spacer is in there. This is what I would do. it is a spacer that is about 3 inches long.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
where?

Take apart and see if the spacer is in there. This is what I would do. it is a spacer that is about 3 inches long.
The way this is binding I would think I need a spacer similar in size to the the inside diameter of the hub, and very thin, almost the size of the large snap ring holding the wheel coupling in place. A three inch long spacer like the one you describe sounds like it is what the axle goes through, inside the bearing? If that were missing it wouldn't cause those metal shavings where the final drive attaches to the wheel, it almost certainly is binding there, but I will have a look at all of it to try to see what's what.

Until I can set up shop in the driveway again I can check out my spare wheel and the old final drive and play with them to see where they can get stuck and look for obvious mismatches so that I can be that much more efficient when I can spend time on the bike when it isn't raining

Thanks,

Matt
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,236 Posts
Take apart and see if the spacer is in there. This is what I would do. it is a spacer that is about 3 inches long.
This is the one I was talking about I had mine apart for service on my 1500 and when I tightened up the rear wheel it started to get in a bind like he is talking about,The long spacer can slip out of place and the washers have to be put back on the same end of the axle they came off of.Although it could be shimmed incorrectly,If that was the case, I would think the gearcase wouldn't turn freely with out the wheel on it as well.

Start taking it apart and she where the shavings are coming from first,My best guess, without laying hands on it or eyes up close,is still a spacing issue.
 

·
Crap, I WAS in 5th gear.
Joined
·
500 Posts
Cheapcycleparts.com has some exploded views. The shims are 92025F thru 92025M. I have never had one of these apart, but I assume the shim is a punched sheet metal ring, like in the parts diagram. Kawasaki appears to have followed standards for factory select shims- I hope I didn't steer you wrong!
 
1 - 20 of 41 Posts
Top