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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone, I have another question in my signal-relocation saga. I was all pumped up today with beautiful weather outside and finally everything I needed (was waiting on an impact driver to pull off the factory signals) when I hit yet another snag.

From my last post on this project, y'all can probably tell I'm not particularly inclined on the electrical front of things. Here's the problem: the damned wires are too short to reach the new licence plate bracket. By something like 10 inches or more. Figures.

I figure there must be somewhere out there that carries simple extension wires for these signals, but all I'm finding are Harley-style 3-wire extensions :confused: . So here are my thoughts on how to proceed:

1) Is there somewhere that anyone knows of with the proper 2-wire extension that I really need? If there is, I'd appreciate a link.

2) Can I use the 3-wire extensions meant for a Harley and just let the 3rd wire hang loose? Naturally, the signals themselves as well as the terminal are both 2 wire.

3) If neither of those work, is there a simple- I stress SIMPLE because, like I said, I'm not electrically inclined- way for me to fashion my own extensions? As in can I go to home depot and buy the correct gauge wire and connectors and stick 'em on there and be fine?

4) I really hate this option because I want to learn how to work on my own bike, but here it is: Should I just suck it up and take it to a shop where they know what they're doing?

Thanks again, this site has been invaluable since I picked up my Vulcan :rockon:
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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4,508 Posts
Hey everyone, I have another question in my signal-relocation saga. I was all pumped up today with beautiful weather outside and finally everything I needed (was waiting on an impact driver to pull off the factory signals) when I hit yet another snag.

From my last post on this project, y'all can probably tell I'm not particularly inclined on the electrical front of things. Here's the problem: the damned wires are too short to reach the new licence plate bracket. By something like 10 inches or more. Figures.

I figure there must be somewhere out there that carries simple extension wires for these signals, but all I'm finding are Harley-style 3-wire extensions :confused: . So here are my thoughts on how to proceed:

1) Is there somewhere that anyone knows of with the proper 2-wire extension that I really need? If there is, I'd appreciate a link.

2) Can I use the 3-wire extensions meant for a Harley and just let the 3rd wire hang loose? Naturally, the signals themselves as well as the terminal are both 2 wire.

3) If neither of those work, is there a simple- I stress SIMPLE because, like I said, I'm not electrically inclined- way for me to fashion my own extensions? As in can I go to home depot and buy the correct gauge wire and connectors and stick 'em on there and be fine?

4) I really hate this option because I want to learn how to work on my own bike, but here it is: Should I just suck it up and take it to a shop where they know what they're doing?

Thanks again, this site has been invaluable since I picked up my Vulcan :rockon:
Option #1 ...I am unable to assist you.
#2, #3, or #4 are all do-able options...your choice on time waiting on parts or money spent to get'ur done.

Note: When crimping wire terminals onto the wire, ENSURE crimp is tight (as in very tight).

:smiley_th
 

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R/R = Relocated Redneck
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628 Posts
I've done mine with option #3, but the wiring I'm using is heavier gauge (14 versus 18). The lights that I've put on the back of mine are 3 wire units. I like the option of having the rear turn signals lit up as running lights.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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Hey everyone, I have another question in my signal-relocation saga. I was all pumped up today with beautiful weather outside and finally everything I needed (was waiting on an impact driver to pull off the factory signals) when I hit yet another snag.

From my last post on this project, y'all can probably tell I'm not particularly inclined on the electrical front of things. Here's the problem: the damned wires are too short to reach the new licence plate bracket. By something like 10 inches or more. Figures.

I figure there must be somewhere out there that carries simple extension wires for these signals, but all I'm finding are Harley-style 3-wire extensions :confused: . So here are my thoughts on how to proceed:

1) Is there somewhere that anyone knows of with the proper 2-wire extension that I really need? If there is, I'd appreciate a link.

2) Can I use the 3-wire extensions meant for a Harley and just let the 3rd wire hang loose? Naturally, the signals themselves as well as the terminal are both 2 wire.

3) If neither of those work, is there a simple- I stress SIMPLE because, like I said, I'm not electrically inclined- way for me to fashion my own extensions? As in can I go to home depot and buy the correct gauge wire and connectors and stick 'em on there and be fine?

4) I really hate this option because I want to learn how to work on my own bike, but here it is: Should I just suck it up and take it to a shop where they know what they're doing?

Thanks again, this site has been invaluable since I picked up my Vulcan :rockon:
Ok blu, I just went out and looked at my scoot and the rear signals have individual mini bullet connetors on the wires. I have never seen bullet connectors that small in diameter before.

Disconnect one of the rear signal lamps and take it with you to an auto parts supplier or maybe a motorcycle custom shop if you have one nearby. The custom guys may be the best bet on finding the mini bullets, or may know where to get them.

You will need at minimum for each signal, 2 sets of mini male/female bullet connectors and one foot each of two different colored wires.
You might want to buy couple of extra connector sets and extra wire in case you break, lose, or damage either wire or connectors while stripping insulation and crimping on connectors.

Wires on the bike look to be 18 gauge.
Right signal wires are gray, and black with a yellow stripe.
Left signal wires are the same color, but the gray wire connector will plug into a Dark green wire in main wiring harness.

You will also need a pair of wire crimping pliers. Do not buy the cheapest pliers offered if you can afford better ones, and plan on doing your own wrenching on the bike in future.

Most guys experienced with electrical system repairs and mods will tell you to solder connectors to wires for better reliability, not crimp them. I have not tried soldering wires yet, but it is a skill I need to acquire. Your choice whether to crimp now for a quick installation, or buy a soldering gun and learn to solder first. :)
 

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Chasin' the blacktop
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Yea, I couldn't find mini bullett connecters either so some electrical butt connectors ($3 at Home Depot ect, pliars or wire crimpers ($10 wire crimpers work better), heat shrink tubing (next to the butt end connectors), and a small spool of 14ga wire. All in the electrical section. About 15 minutes work (if you work real slow).
Simple and done. Some small black zipties or electrical tape helps keep the wireing neat looking.
 

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Not fer nuthin...but the original Harleys were single wire relying on a frame ground (before the days of glass and plastics, lol)...Im running Yammy signals on mine...single wire....frame ground...all works, even the flashers.
Kawi did an overkill on the extra grounding, and 3 wire systems are just found when signals also double as brakes.
Ive stripped my VN of a lot of the extra groundings, and just ensured that the main grounds are good.

NB...Im running a vintage Harley taillight....2 wire (brake and running)...it mounts onto a steel fender...grounded...no 3rd needed like Kawi. I actually added a 3rd though, in case the fender ground got dirty. But wasnt needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the responses! I decided to gamble with a set of novello cables meant for a H/D. Got them in the mail today, and the gamble didn't pay off- the terminals aren't bullet connectors. Damn. Looks like I'm making a trip to Home Depot tomorrow, thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yea, I couldn't find mini bullett connecters either so some electrical butt connectors ($3 at Home Depot ect, pliars or wire crimpers ($10 wire crimpers work better), heat shrink tubing (next to the butt end connectors), and a small spool of 14ga wire. All in the electrical section. About 15 minutes work (if you work real slow).
Simple and done. Some small black zipties or electrical tape helps keep the wireing neat looking.
did you just replace the OEM bullet connectors on the harness with butt connectors, or did you need some kind of adapter to fit the butt connectors to the bullet connectors already on the bike/TS?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I am happy to report that after your guys' feedback and a trip to Advance Auto Parts and my local bike shop, I was finally able to mount my after market signals on the license plate bracket and strap on my new saddlebags! :pepper:

It was a lot of trial and error to get up to this point, but thankfully I maybe only "wasted" 10 or 15 bucks on certain parts that didn't work out. Here is the breakdown of my final setup for anyone interested:

1 set of Vikingbags saddlebags plus included supports and signal relocation kit free with purchase: http://www.vikingbags.com/Kawasaki-VN750-Vulcan-Side-Pocket-Plain-Bag-7757-prd1.htm

1 set of Chrome LED turn signals (as the OEM signals did not fit the license plate bracket): http://www.ebay.com/itm/310654393715?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I did need an impact driver from Harbor Freight in order to loosen both the helmet locks and the turn signal screws, but that may not be necessary for everyone. Other than that, the included directions from Vikingbags are pretty straightforward- I went with the throw-over mounting option but that may change in the future.

Then it gets down to the electricals:

As you already know, I needed to make some extension cables to reach down to the license plate bracket. I picked up 18g wire from Advance Auto Parts (had the best price in my area), and then headed to my local bike shop for help with the connector terminals. These guys were great and if you're in the Prince George's county area, I can't recommend Clinton Cycles more highly! I was directed to their service area where one of their guys supplied me with 4 male and female bullet connectors and 4 butt connectors, and he walked me through what I should do to fashion these cables. All completely free of charge :notworthy:

Both the connectors on the bike AND on the turn signals were really awkward sizes that neither of us could find a match for, so here's how I did it:

I replaced the connector terminals on the turn signals with the male bullet connector to coincide with the female connectors going on my DIY extension cables. To connect the extension cables to the bike, I cut away the OEM terminals on the bike for the same reason, and spliced them using butt connectors. If you're going to try this, pick up a few extra of each connector, as your crimps may not be as solid as you first think and feeding stripped cable back into an already crimped connector is a pain. Also, be sure to test that you have the right wires hooked up to each other before you crimp because you only have so much real estate on the bike end to make up for those kinds of mistakes. Thankfully, I only had to experience the first problem but was able to overcome it. I ran the cables out through the passenger handholds and behind the bags to the signals on the license plate brackets.

Results: It almost looks like I knew what I was doing! I will take pics later since the sun's already going down, but the wires hide away behind the saddle bags for the most part. The signals work great and look great. Since they're down by the license plate now I have them angled ever-so-slightly upward to be pointed more at driver's eye level than at the eye level of a cat. I figure it can't hurt my visibility since LEDs can be unintentionally directional.

Mounting the signals and plate bracket gets a little tight against the rear fender, so your socket set may be too big and you'll need to resort to an old-fashioned wrench to get that squared away.

The only real quirk is that the signals blink at the increased rate, so it seems that the bike thinks my signals are malfunctioning. I believe that's due to the fact that the LED signals don't provide the same feedback that the OEM bulbs do which tell the bike that all is well with the signals (I don't know the technical details on that, but I think there's a thread elsewhere that explains it). Not a big deal IMO, since I do a pre-flight before every ride anyway. If the signals don't work, I'll know :beerchug:


Whew! I'm glad it's over, but it was a hell of a learning experience and a damned good confidence builder for a rookie like me.
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
Joined
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4,508 Posts
I am happy to report that after your guys' feedback and a trip to Advance Auto Parts and my local bike shop, I was finally able to mount my after market signals on the license plate bracket and strap on my new saddlebags! :pepper:

It was a lot of trial and error to get up to this point, but thankfully I maybe only "wasted" 10 or 15 bucks on certain parts that didn't work out. Here is the breakdown of my final setup for anyone interested:

1 set of Vikingbags saddlebags plus included supports and signal relocation kit free with purchase: http://www.vikingbags.com/Kawasaki-VN750-Vulcan-Side-Pocket-Plain-Bag-7757-prd1.htm

1 set of Chrome LED turn signals (as the OEM signals did not fit the license plate bracket): http://www.ebay.com/itm/310654393715?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I did need an impact driver from Harbor Freight in order to loosen both the helmet locks and the turn signal screws, but that may not be necessary for everyone. Other than that, the included directions from Vikingbags are pretty straightforward- I went with the throw-over mounting option but that may change in the future.

Then it gets down to the electricals:

As you already know, I needed to make some extension cables to reach down to the license plate bracket. I picked up 18g wire from Advance Auto Parts (had the best price in my area), and then headed to my local bike shop for help with the connector terminals. These guys were great and if you're in the Prince George's county area, I can't recommend Clinton Cycles more highly! I was directed to their service area where one of their guys supplied me with 4 male and female bullet connectors and 4 butt connectors, and he walked me through what I should do to fashion these cables. All completely free of charge :notworthy:

Both the connectors on the bike AND on the turn signals were really awkward sizes that neither of us could find a match for, so here's how I did it:

I replaced the connector terminals on the turn signals with the male bullet connector to coincide with the female connectors going on my DIY extension cables. To connect the extension cables to the bike, I cut away the OEM terminals on the bike for the same reason, and spliced them using butt connectors. If you're going to try this, pick up a few extra of each connector, as your crimps may not be as solid as you first think and feeding stripped cable back into an already crimped connector is a pain. Also, be sure to test that you have the right wires hooked up to each other before you crimp because you only have so much real estate on the bike end to make up for those kinds of mistakes. Thankfully, I only had to experience the first problem but was able to overcome it. I ran the cables out through the passenger handholds and behind the bags to the signals on the license plate brackets.

Results: It almost looks like I knew what I was doing! I will take pics later since the sun's already going down, but the wires hide away behind the saddle bags for the most part. The signals work great and look great. Since they're down by the license plate now I have them angled ever-so-slightly upward to be pointed more at driver's eye level than at the eye level of a cat. I figure it can't hurt my visibility since LEDs can be unintentionally directional.

Mounting the signals and plate bracket gets a little tight against the rear fender, so your socket set may be too big and you'll need to resort to an old-fashioned wrench to get that squared away.

The only real quirk is that the signals blink at the increased rate, so it seems that the bike thinks my signals are malfunctioning. I believe that's due to the fact that the LED signals don't provide the same feedback that the OEM bulbs do which tell the bike that all is well with the signals (I don't know the technical details on that, but I think there's a thread elsewhere that explains it). Not a big deal IMO, since I do a pre-flight before every ride anyway. If the signals don't work, I'll know :beerchug:


Whew! I'm glad it's over, but it was a hell of a learning experience and a damned good confidence builder for a rookie like me.
Good job...That's how would have performed it. The LED lights have less resistance (use less current) than the standard incandesant bulbs, that is why they now blink faster. I have a link to a different flasher unit which should remedy that problem. I'll try to locate that link for you.
Enjoy your ride
:smiley x2
 

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87 VN750 Lookin Good
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You can also do what I did

I solved the problem of fast flashing by putting in two load equalizers in the signal wiring works great.
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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I solved the problem of fast flashing by putting in two load equalizers in the signal wiring works great.
What are the value of the load resistors ?
Any additional would be helpful..
WilliamTech
 

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I solved the problem of fast flashing by putting in two load equalizers in the signal wiring works great.
Get rid of the load equalizers...they add resistance to the system and thus draw more current....it's counterproductive!

Take advantage of the lower current draw of the LED's and replace your flasher unit with an electronic EP34 flasher from any auto store. This will fix the fast blinker issue due to lower current draw from the LED's

Your charging system will thank you!
 

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Get rid of the load equalizers...they add resistance to the system and thus draw more current....it's counterproductive!

Take advantage of the lower current draw of the LED's and replace your flasher unit with an electronic EP34 flasher from any auto store. This will fix the fast blinker issue due to lower current draw from the LED's

Your charging system will thank you!

X2. I bought a $12 electronic flasher when I went to LEDs. I did some research on resistors and didn't want the hassle.
 
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