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Discussion Starter #1
Well,

I bought a used 2006 750 vulcan 1 year and a half ago. I did not know about the splines. On friday they died on me on my way back from work. On the weekend I have removed the mufflers, the rear shocks, the front bevel gear the rear wheel and the read bevel gear.

I looked at the splines on the front of the drive shaft: they are OK. Dry but OK. I looked and the rear splines of the drive shaft: they are OK. Dry by OK. The coupler now: the front (towards the drive shaft) they are OK buy dry and looks rusted; the rear (towards the rear wheel) they are eaten, almost nothing is left. Now on the wheel bevel gear, guess what, eaten too. A lot of dust.

Now I am stuck in buying an OEM for the whole rear bevel gear: $1100. I do not know where to buy used. If I knew I would have greased them much sooner, but I did not, aarrrhhhh.

I also have read somewhere some excellent grease based on teflon. I think it is made buy Dupon and its brand name starts with a K. Do not remember.
 

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Old Truck Junkie
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Go to sell and swap on here. And go to ebay. Get a good used one for a fraction what a new one costs.
 

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Prowling Tiger
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Man, that sucks! If it isn't the splines, then it is the stator sucking our money wells dry. I feel this is one area where Kaw could have done differently. I would have been ok having either a chain or belt drive instead of the drive-shaft.

Anyways, good luck!
 

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Senior Lurker
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Bummer. Well there are at least four VN750 final drive shafts for sale on Ebay right now. Even a used one for $75 beats a new one for $1100.

-Sloppy
 

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I feel your pain

Well,
I also have read somewhere some excellent grease based on teflon. I think it is made buy Dupon and its brand name starts with a K. Do not remember.
I feel your pain, really I do. I spent my summer wrestling with this.

If you haven't already be sure to read and fully understand Fergy's fabulous rear spline lube procedure, it is very informative and has pretty much all you need in order to disassemble and reassemble things..it's the sourcing of the parts that you will need some help with if and when you find red dust back there like I did when my bike died in May.

The Honda Moly 60 is what you want for the lube, BTW, but I assume that any brand would work as long as it is 60% molybdenum disulfide. It has a completely different feel than the stuff you get at auto parts stores, those have a moly concentration way lower than the Honda product.

I was able to buy a complete rear wheel from a fellow forum member for $150 so after I swapped out the pumpkin (the rear drive unit, on the left side of the wheel) I still have an almost new tire, decent brake shoes, and a slightly pitted wheel that I can try to refinish to swap out my my other, not nearly as pitted one, when it comes time to do a brake job.

If your driveshaft coupler doesn't have to come off that it s good thing, I spent a good amount of time wrestling with the circlip inside but was finally able to not only get the old worn coupler off (those Klein pliers are worth their weight in gold) but I eventually got a replacement coupler back onto the shaft, too, once I realized I had to lift the driveshaft so the clip wouldn't keep falling out if I couldn't get it attached (once you get in there you will see what I am talking about).

I spent less than $200 for parts but because I had no garage and was at the mercy of daylight, weather, and the pressures of work schedules it took me almost three months to get it going again. If the parts you are looking for aren't available right now just wait, they will be. I got what I needed in less than a week once I started looking.

If you have any questions please let me know, I just finished my ordeal this weekend and it is all still very fresh in my mind, and I couldn't have done it without the help of the other folks in this forum. Good luck with yours!

Matt
 

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Concert connoisseur
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post some pics of your shot splines so others will see how important it is to lube them anytime they take off the rear tire. or if a new to them bike and not changing the tire lube them anyways. the whole job takes less than a couple hours!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
A picture says a 1000 words

post some pics of your shot splines so others will see how important it is to lube them anytime they take off the rear tire. or if a new to them bike and not changing the tire lube them anyways. the whole job takes less than a couple hours!
Thanks for the advice. One picture for the rear bevel gear splines and one picture for the couple.
 

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Don't forget that spring, ask me how I know! :)
 

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1986 VN750
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The stuff your are looking for by Dupont is called Krytox:

http://www2.dupont.com/Lubricants/en_US/industries/Aerospace_Industry.html?src=krytox-240ac


Great stuff. EXPENSIVE.....but great.....;)
Do you think this is worth it over Moly 60, or is it just used for the u-joint instead of white-lithium.

I couldn't see using more than Moly 60 on the splines since it's what is used on Honda's larger shaft bikes (ST1100, etc), so if it can handle those, our little bikes should be no problem at all.
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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Do you think this is worth it over Moly 60, or is it just used for the u-joint instead of white-lithium.

I couldn't see using more than Moly 60 on the splines since it's what is used on Honda's larger shaft bikes (ST1100, etc), so if it can handle those, our little bikes should be no problem at all.

x2 !
 

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I have use Krytox in Aviation applications, and it holds up to extreme colder tempatures better, it won't evaporate easily, and it stays where you put it in low atmospheric pressure situations.

I can't see spending the money over the Moly60....we typically don't ride in freezing weather or in the vacuum of space....seems like overkill to me:doh:

Moly60 seems to be the product of choice for most forum members, so If you can get your hands on it, it should be sufficient to use.
I think Loctite makes a product with Moly in it as well if you can't find the Moly60.
 

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I think it was the other extreme that makes Krytox desirable ....it retains it's consistency at very hot tempatures. Where normal petroleum based grease would cook off like spit in a frying pan, Krytox remains stable.

I just see this much like the argument of synthetic oil over petroleum....you can buy Mobil One 10w40 Racing Oil for your bike at about 12 bucks a quart....and you'd likely have the best oil available in your bike.

But if you change your oil every 3,000 miles and don't ride your bike at redline everyday.... it's kinda a waste of money.... Same as if you check and lube your splines every 10-12k it just be foolish to spend the extra cash.


I think Dianna uses Krytox in her sidecar rig... This makes some sense to me given the extra stress the bike endures.

I would think if you plan on taking your shaft drive bike on a megga mile cross country tour, it might be a wise investment to use the Dupont grease.......Otherwise it does seem to be overkill.
 

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Glenn C.
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Well,

I bought a used 2006 750 vulcan 1 year and a half ago. I did not know about the splines. On friday they died on me on my way back from work.

WOW, on a 2006??? 2006 is the last year they made the vn750, you would think they would have caught the dry spline problem..
I thought it started back in the late 90s or early 00s, that they forgot to lube them from the factory??

Good luck with the repair work, get it back on the road!
 

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romeobravo172
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842 Posts
Yea on an 06 that does sound funky. On my 04 I did a final drive pulldown to ck my splines about a month ago and to my surprise it was lubed fron the factory. I bought it in July 11 and only had 924 miles on it. My second 04 I bought had 37k on the clock and was evident that the final drive had been replaced, Don't know for sure why but do suspect it was from dry splines! One is a CAL bike and the 2nd wasn't, do not know if that made any difference or not. Maybe assembled in different places?
 

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Super Moderator
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WOW, on a 2006??? 2006 is the last year they made the vn750, you would think they would have caught the dry spline problem..
I thought it started back in the late 90s or early 00s, that they forgot to lube them from the factory??

Good luck with the repair work, get it back on the road!
Keep in mind here the bike is now 6 years old and he didn't say how many miles it had. Kawasaki did lube the splines for many years.....with bearing grease. You also have no history on how and where the bike wad ridden.

All this meaning the bike could have been lubed at the factory and it just wore out.

This is why we tell EVERYONE that joins here with their "new bike" to check the splines.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
This is what I decided to try. Get the Krytox (Knifemaker: thanks for the info), get the coupler ($75 OEM). Then I thoroughly clean the parts, remove the rust, grease as recommended, reassemble the parts (with the spring!), seal the rear bevel gear with the drive shaft housing. I will try to use the splines of the rear bevel gear as they are now. Then in one month or two from now (if the splines holds) I re-disassemble to see if there is metallic dust and if the grease is still in place. Long term solution do not know yet, but I saw one rear bevel gear on ebay for $235. Have a doubt on the part though.

By the way I did not mention this yet: only 9700 miles. Can you believe that? And yet another thing: I just ended changing the gasket of my front cylinder, the one between the engine block and the piston cylinder (yes the 3rd one down). See my thread : "coolant leak"
 

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I bought my 2006 new, lubed the splines at 700 miles and yes, they were bone dry from the factory.

-Sloppy
 

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I bought my 2006 new, lubed the splines at 700 miles and yes, they were bone dry from the factory.

-Sloppy
I got my 06 new as well....splines were well lubed when I checked it last winter.

no consistency at all from the factory :doh:....which is why everyone here recommends checking the splines.
 
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