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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wood Rectangle Gadget Wood stain Hardwood


I don't use this rear cargo box anymore since I got the saddlebags, but at some point when I travel further I'm going to need every little bit of storage space I can get.

Any suggestions how I might repair this? It happened over a month ago, and as a temporary fix I used Gorilla duct tape. However, the adhesive finally weakened and here I am. I'd like something more permanent.

I'm open to anything as long as I'll still be be able to open it with the key.

Thanks!
 

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I did the duct tape for a while before I took the plastic off and made a hinged door with aluminum, but that broke as well and I haven’t gotten around to fixing that yet.
Spockster suggested what I would as well, and that’s a small hinge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Piano hinge and bolts. If you want to dress it up, those license plate bolts come in all descriptions, chrome, reflectors, skulls, lights, etc.
I have no idea what a piano hinge is, but I was hoping to avoid having to go out and get something special. I have JB-Weld, 2-part clear epoxy, silicone, super-glue... Almost wondering if a piece of somewhat flexible plastic could join the two halves?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I did the duct tape for a while before I took the plastic off and made a hinged door with aluminum, but that broke as well and I haven’t gotten around to fixing that yet.
Spockster suggested what I would as well, and that’s a small hinge.
Piano hinge, huh? Where on earth would I find something like that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Home Depot, it’s just a flat type of hinge that can fold completely backwards on itself.
No Home Depot here, but I assume Lowe's would work? I'll be out that way tomorrow and see what I can find. (If you could possibly share a pic so I know what to look for, that would be frickin' great!)
Spockster shared a link with pic. Thanks!
 

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I'd just keep Duct taping it. Hex would always ask if I had a roll of Doc tape in my saddlebags
 

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Yes, I’ve s always wanted to meet the guy that thought a bendable piece of plastic would make a long lasting hinge and punch him in the nose.
Really, any type of hinge will work, piano hinges are just lighter and can be cut down to the length you need (you really didn’t know what a piano hinge was? 😳)
But honestly, two layers of duct tape should last a few years, cost less, and are always replaceable with new tape.
The real question is did you silicone the threads to the lock? As these have a habit of going MIA.
See:
 

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Mine's been duct taped for 5 years and is going strong. Piano hinges do need bolts from the outside which ruins the aesthetics for me, so I'm trying to avoid it for as long as possible, but it may be inevitable. Mmart, what was the mode of failure for your home-made door? I'd sort of like to fab an aluminum replacement if my door does eventually become un-tapeable, so any lessons learned there would be helpful!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes, I’ve s always wanted to meet y to me guy that thought a bendable piece of plastic would make a long lasting hinge and punch him in the nose.
Really, any type of hinge will work, piano hinges are just lighter and can be cut down to the length you need (you really didn’t know what a piano hinge was? 😳)
But honestly, two layers of duct tape should last a few years, cost less, and are always replaceable with new tape.
The real question is did you silicone the threads to the lock? As these have a habit of going MIA.
See:
I did NOT silicone the threads to the lock, but I'm going to do that now! EDIT: I just tried and CANNOT undo the threaded nut on that lock. Looks like it was glued in the past.

You said "...two layers of duct tape should last a few years, cost less, and are always replaceable with new tape."

Yeah, not true at all. I used several layers of GORILLA brand duct tape, which is WAY stronger, and it came loose after a month. I'm thinking that because my bike is stored under a cover and does sit in the sun quite a bit, that probably affected the tape.

For now, I've joined the two halves with a THICK bead of silicone. Since it's basically just rubber, hopefully it will last longer. (Yes, I applied the silicone and have been letting it cure while the two halves are sitting 90 degrees to each other.)

I'll put it back together tomorrow and see how it goes. Thanks for that suggestion about the threads!
 

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One needs to understand that due to the age of these bikes, it’s entirely possible the former owner of YOUR bike may have done some of the preventative maintenance we suggested here, like silicone on the tail box lock, and the swing arm caps. Stuff like lubing the drive splines, is one you shouldn’t take for granted and check if you bought a bike from someone.
You can use pop rivets on the hinge, and paint them black if you don’t want it to look odd.
You can also just remove the whole thing and make a cover like I did.
https://flic.kr/p/3gK2yh
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
One needs to understand that due to the age of these bikes, it’s entirely possible the former owner of YOUR bike may have done some of the preventative maintenance we suggested here, like silicone on the tail box lock, and the swing arm caps. Stuff like lubing the drive splines, is one you shouldn’t take for granted and check if you bought a bike from someone.
You can use pop rivets on the hinge, and paint them black if you don’t want it to look odd.
You can also just remove the whole thing and make a cover like I did.
https://flic.kr/p/3gK2yh
I love that chrome cover! Go ahead and send that out to me, please and thank you. 🤣
 

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If you go to an Auto Zone or other automotive parts type place, they sell these plastic mirrors to use if you damage one of your side view mirrors.
It’s a 9”X6” or so piece of plastic with some double sided tape included. You just cut the plastic with some sharp scissors to shape and stick it to your cracked mirror.
This is what I used to make the chrome plate. I bolted a piece of wood behind it so it could be screwed down. Think it cost me $6.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
\
I fixed mine last week. I had a reflector about 2" x 4" with holes for bolts. I mounted it on the top piece and made two plastic tabs to hold it in place. Works good. I can get pics later if anyone wants.
That's a neat idea. So, last night I laid down a THICK bead of black silicone along the "hinge" inner fold. I positioned the two pieces at 90° so that the silicone would cure at it's most expanded point. (More importantly, I cleaned every bit of the surfaces with isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.

Just put the rear cargo box back on, and that rubber silicone did the trick. Flexible, durable, easy and blends right in to the black. Really glad I did it this way.
 

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Yes, I’ve s always wanted to meet the guy that thought a bendable piece of plastic would make a long lasting hinge and punch him in the nose.
Lol, I've had the same thought. Much as I love my Vulcan, there are a few headscratchers like that one. Thankfully, the gorilla tape that came on mine has lasted for as long as I've owned it.

Meanwhile, I since had the pleasure of seeing how Honda approached the challenge on my friend's '86 Shadow. Given Honda's reputation, I was prepared to be impressed by whatever superior design they used for their similar-looking tool box cubby on the backrest. I was instead met by something distinctly worse.

Honda got around the problem of a flimsy hinge by not using one. The back door just falls off with the key. That wouldn't be so bad except that the tool pouch interferes with the tab that secures the bottom lip of the door. To get the rubber strap around the tool pouch and simultaneously reattach the door requires nothing less than profound dexterity - and patience.

I too would like to smack whoever designed the crappy plastic hinge on our beloved bikes but I'll take a duct tape any day over Honda's superior fail.
 
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