Kawasaki VN750 Forum banner

21 - 24 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
I'm replacing my brake drums on a 1985. Its pretty simple once you get the wheel off. Ordered the new brakes on Amazon for about $20.

Replacing the tires now.

The Spline lube or any search for rear tire removal with a spline will work.

Havent done the front calipers yet. Want to replace the rear tire first.

Edit: you will need Brake Cleaner.... its about $7.00 a can.
 

·
Registered
2001 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
Joined
·
72 Posts
not much in aftermarket disks. hell, even rotors from a recycle yard are expensive..

but the ebay is going to be the best bet.

when I tried once to remove one of mine, I found the bolts where 'on there'. I broke an allen socket trying to loosen the first one. as of that point in time, I said they stay on. Note: I was going to remove them prior to my buddy changing out my tire for me, as a precaution during the change. turns out, didnt need to worry, his tire machine did just fine with the rotors still installed
Sure its an old thread but it still comes up on search for new members, so I'm adding a bit of info here:

The front disc rotor bolts (7 of them) are installed with hella lots of red permanent loctite. Never saw a factory bike with so much. They coat the threads and then completely fill the channel where the tapered bolt head fits down into. They ain't comin' out without some torque.

I use a craftsman hex bit socket that I bought years ago when they were still well made. It will pull them out of there without stripping the bolt head.

If you wanna be very smooth, you use heat from a gun or torch (over 550F) on the bolt and it will melt the loctite and your bolt comes out so nice.

And when you're done, you gotta put those bolts back in. I used a pick to clean out the bolt head channel, there was just gobs of it. Then I soaked the bolts in acetone, it does the job for you. Was harder to clean the tapped thread channels because they go all the way thru so you can't just fill it with acetone and let it sit. I poured some thru from each side, and then sprayed with chemtool and found that the bolts go in smooth enough.

I use red loctite on the threads and on the underside of the bolt head, and that's plenty good, you can go racing and those rotor bolts will not budge.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,993 Posts
Sometimes soaking a shop towel in acetone and pushing it into the female threads with a dowel works to get the thread lock out. As does using a appropriate sized wire brush from gun cleaning kit. Just chock it into an electric drill/screwdriver and running it through 😉
 
21 - 24 of 24 Posts
Top