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Discussion Starter #1
I have been looking around for a good place to buy a R/R - mine went out - fortunately did not fry the stator - however - my favorite places to buy parts here in Atlanta have closed down - any ideas on where to buy a good, non electrosport R/R ?

Thanks
 

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You can find a few on eBay...just not sure which ones are worth it. I would like to know which ones people are using as a replacement since I am considering relocating mine before it causes an issue. I know some talk about switching out to a mosfet version.
Let us know what you find out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks - I wish I had seen this 10 mins ago - I just ordered a new one from Regulatorrectifier.com for 100 bucks. I appreciate it though :0)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The R/R came today - supposed to be OEM - it says tour max on the box - made in Japan - would have thought it would have had a KAWI logo somewhere on the box but - we will see. I am going to put it on tomorrow and check the numbers - then figure out how to do a metering thing on the bike so that I can keep an eye on the whole system. :)
 

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If it says made in Japan it is probably ok. It's the stuff made in third world countries, like mainland China, that you have to worry about. I would have gotten one from Ricks Motorsports. I don't see the benefit to a metal oxide semiconductor field effect transistor R/R. I have 150,000 miles on stock Kawasaki ones, in their original location, without problems.

I definitely understand the spline problem and the acct problem, having had to deal with both those. But the old fashioned electrics on the Vulcan 750 have proven utterly reliable, I have never had a stator or R/R go bad. It's still a bad design, because the stator output is not controlled, but it works because the stator has such a low output.
 

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Yea, its kinda like tossing a 1/2 empty bottle of good whisky out the back door window,, why do it. Dont care for anything with the word Mosfet attached to it, things may have changed since they first came out but once snake bitten its hard to go there again :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I put the R/R on today and did a quick check of the charging V before I had to head out the door - it looks like it goes between 13.2 to 13.5 V from idle to 4k but I have the batt charging while I'm out and will check her again when I am sure that the Batt is charged. I kind of expected a wider fluctuation from say 12 something to 14 something. does that sound about right?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
well - this morning I checked the battery and it read about 13.5 V then cranked it up and it read about 13.9 @ 4000 as the RPM's decreased the V reading went up to 14.5 and as I revved it up the V dropped again so what's up with this? any ideas?
 

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Hey Kanuck -

You still have that R/R? And would you still be interested in selling it? I sent you a PM about it.

Thanks.

AZ Kev
 

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well - this morning I checked the battery and it read about 13.5 V then cranked it up and it read about 13.9 @ 4000 as the RPM's decreased the V reading went up to 14.5 and as I revved it up the V dropped again so what's up with this? any ideas
I think that is normal. It will fluctuate until your battery charge and rpm stabilize. I had an issue with my FJ1200 and went for a ride with my meter connected and on the tank where I could see it. These things are all over the place. As long as you are between 13.2 and 15 amps you are okay.
 
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