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Discussion Starter #1
So Im curious to ask for you guys that have moved your regulator/rectifier.... Have you seen a noticeable difference from your gauges? Have you ever had an instance where your bike wouldnt start back up when it was hot and after the replacement, was it any better?


Thanks in advance for the responses!!!
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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There is no real proof that relocating the r/r does anything to lengthen it`s life or the life and efficiency of the stator or battery. I read where someone else said, "It can`t hurt to reclocate it", so many of us have.

To see a real difference in charging efficiency from the r/r, change out to a Shindigen/mosfet when you need a new one.
http://www.scribd.com/doc/32290153/Shindegen-Regulator-Rectifier-Install
 

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The R/R has nothing to do with the bike starting. What it does is take the VAC coming from the stator and change it to VDC for the operation of the bike and recharging of the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
There is no real proof that relocating the r/r does anything to lengthen it`s life or the life and efficiency of the stator or battery. I read where someone else said, "It can`t hurt to reclocate it", so many of us have.

To see a real difference in charging efficiency from the r/r, change out to a Shindigen/mosfet when you need a new one.
http://www.scribd.com/doc/32290153/Shindegen-Regulator-Rectifier-Install
hmm... interesting, he really didnt go into detail as to why the mosfet is better then the stock scr other then what the acronyms actually mean... I guess Ill do some digging soon to figure that out. interesting none the less!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The R/R has nothing to do with the bike starting. What it does is take the VAC coming from the stator and change it to VDC for the operation of the bike and recharging of the battery.
It most certainly does if its nots working... Ill keep the rest of the smart a$$ comments out
 

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Sparky!!!
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hmm... interesting, he really didnt go into detail as to why the mosfet is better then the stock scr other then what the acronyms actually mean... I guess Ill do some digging soon to figure that out. interesting none the less!
I am the one who did the write up at the request of this forum, after we beat the issue to death... the reason that the Mosfet Rectifier is so much better... it with stands heat better, the way it works is more efficient than our r/r, and lastly we ended up going this rout because i can't find an automotive voltage regulator that would work for our bike.

this whole project started because my R/R went south and I found an article on how to make my own R/R using common automotive parts. But I found out this only works if you have an electro-magnetic field type charging system... using an automotive voltage regulator to open and close the fields... but since we have a perminant-magnetic field this would not work, and could not regulate the voltage output. Then another member found the Shindegen R/R... I studied the specs, and opted to go this rout with a TPE Custom Wound Stator. I now have power to run my 100 amp headlight, 55 watt driving lights, and my 75 watt stereo with enough left over to run a gps, charge my phone, and my iPod.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I am the one who did the write up at the request of this forum, after we beat the issue to death... the reason that the Mosfet Rectifier is so much better... it with stands heat better, the way it works is more efficient than our r/r, and lastly we ended up going this rout because i can't find an automotive voltage regulator that would work for our bike.

this whole project started because my R/R went south and I found an article on how to make my own R/R using common automotive parts. But I found out this only works if you have an electro-magnetic field type charging system... using an automotive voltage regulator to open and close the fields... but since we have a perminant-magnetic field this would not work, and could not regulate the voltage output. Then another member found the Shindegen R/R... I studied the specs, and opted to go this rout with a TPE Custom Wound Stator. I now have power to run my 100 amp headlight, 55 watt driving lights, and my 75 watt stereo with enough left over to run a gps, charge my phone, and my iPod.
WOW:wow:, Thats alot of accessories!!!!! I think Im gona try a mosfet in my 77 Kaw, my lights run dim so maybe that will fix that issue! Im more or less interested at the components that make up the mosfet to make it so efficient. Its comforting to know that from your research in the write up that companies are putting the mosfet r/r in the newer bikes.

Last but not least... Thank you for your research!!!
 

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Guess I have some learning to do, maybe you could help. How does the R/R assist in starting the bike? If you thought I was being a smart A$$ I must apologize, was unintentional. Was just trying to answer one of your questions.
 

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Wareagle1970
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Guess I have some learning to do, maybe you could help. How does the R/R assist in starting the bike? If you thought I was being a smart A$$ I must apologize, was unintentional. Was just trying to answer one of your questions.
The r/r makes sure your battery is charged to allow you to start your bike. That's about the only reason I can think of as to how the R/R helps to start your bike.
 

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Guess I have some learning to do, maybe you could help. How does the R/R assist in starting the bike? If you thought I was being a smart A$$ I must apologize, was unintentional. Was just trying to answer one of your questions.
You were not being a smart a$$... The poster that said you were wrong was...

(by saying I guess if the R/R does not work, you couldn't start the bike?)

However , your statement is correct... The stator or the R/R have nothing to do with starting the bike. You can remove both of them , put in a charged battery and the bike will start...

It won't run very long.... but it will start. ;)
 

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Sparky!!!
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The Mosfet R/R won't help add that many accessories unless you get a custom wound stator. The r/r controls the out put voltage and converts AC voltage to DC voltage, The Stator is where the AMPs are generated. If you want to add more AMPs to your ride, you need to upgrade to a larger Stator, but when doing so, the added amount of Wattage will destroy your stock R/R, so you have to upgrade both at the same time. You can upgrade the R/R to the Mosfet with out upgrading the stator, just remember you are still limited to the stock stators output ability.. the gain for doing just the r/r... longer life added to both the stator and the r/r since the voltage isn't shunted to ground.

IfixF18's, to answer your question about the R/R helping start the bike... you were correct, it does not help one bit.. you can take the r/r completely out of the equation and still start the bike. you can even remove the stator and the bike still starts. Like mentioned, the charging system is only designed to supply a trickle charge to the battery, and supply the rest of the electrical system with enough power to operate the ignition system and accessories with out the help of the battery. The battery serves one purpose.. and one purpose only... to start the bike.

Sources:
4Wheel Drive & Sports Utility Magazine: Exploring Automotive Batteries
Cycle Connection Magazine: Motorcycle Charging System
www.Electrosport.com: How a Motorcycle Charging System Works
 

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Wareagle1970
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Wareagle1970
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Same R/R, just different install kits... but the ebay one will work.. you might have to modify my write up a little bit
Thanks... Just making sure before I buy one. Am thinking even if my electrical problems wind up being the stator, I will probably go ahead and install one of the R/R's.
 

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Wareagle1970
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Sparky!!!
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the one mentioned on the other thread is the Cycle City one... the same r/r fits many many applications.. the only difference is the pigtail kit.. buy the ebay one and call it good.. if you have any problems, i can walk you through the install.. its real easy
 

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... longer life added to both the stator and the r/r since the voltage isn't shunted to ground.
IIRC, The MOSFET used here on the forum is still a shunt type R/R and therefore still dumps excess current to ground...... it just does so more efficiently.... and thus less heat is generated.
 
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