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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Giving my new to me bike a once over, tuned and synched, can't get the headlamp working, pop the side cover to check connections and uh oh, I got some melty crispy stuff... I kinda hope the R/R is allright, I know the harness is fried, the wire is burned about 1/2" back, and the plug, my plug!! now I have my 700 for parts :) but need to get her home. Would the R/R relocate have prevented this? looks like an acid problem, haven't replaced the battery yet, but will soon. She has no goat with the V&H pipes so I shouldn't really need to move it right?... man, I'm bummed...

There she is, gotta get some decent tires on there, haha, just noticed the left mirror in this pic
 

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Sparky!!!
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that r/r is toast... what caused it to fry like that? i would pull the seat and tank and trace your wiring harness, also I would check the relays inside the JB... it sounds like the Headlight Relay is gone, which probably fried about the same time the R/R went.
 

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I have a similar problem although I think my R/R is ok - was a bitch getting the plug off - read further into the post for some cleaning options and a place to order a new harness.

Here is my pics: http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12010

I haven't replaced the r/r or the harness yet as tires needed to come first.

Beautiful bike man - I want to get some whitewalls next time.
________
Dodge super 8 hemi
 

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Sparky!!!
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MisterP, his looks far worse off than yours... get a manual... or search R/R troubleshooting, and test your R/R... i looks bad, but may be ok... also you can use just the 1/4" female spade connectors to fix it...
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
If I have the right settings on my digital ohmmeter, set to 200, then in the pic the center bottom lead x'd out is dead, everything-else checks out on the R/R. I'm getting frustrated checking the stator, does the battery need to be in? I pulled the battery box and removed the R/R to get a better angle with the meter, figured I might as well relocate it anyway. Do I need to put it all back together to check the stator...
found this thread about testing the stator, http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12182
going to go look see, I have the 3 yellow wires tagged, do they need to be?

 

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Discussion Starter #6
well, with this setting it's reading 0.9 between the yellow wires and infinite to ground on all three, I'm going to put things back together and see what kind of volts she's got.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Stator seems to be operational, should I be concerned that it read 0.9 ohms between the yellow wires? manual states it should be between .3 and .5, she's pushin a ton of voltage.. as far as the wiring harness, everything else looks clean, I'm going to clean that r/r and hook it up and see what happens, shouldn't hurt anything in the short term, ya think?
 

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Stator seems to be operational, should I be concerned that it read 0.9 ohms between the yellow wires? manual states it should be between .3 and .5, she's pushin a ton of voltage.. as far as the wiring harness, everything else looks clean, I'm going to clean that r/r and hook it up and see what happens, shouldn't hurt anything in the short term, ya think?
howdy!
I am getting the same readings too on my sceewter:doh: so i ordered a R/R from RMStator and got a 5 pin R/R:wow: (the missing pin is the one you crossed out on the picture):doh: so i send it back and still waiting for the 'right' R/R to be shipped back to me:mad:
can you tell me what voltage your were getting coming out of the yellow wires?
I can't wait to get back on the 'iron horse':beerchug:

Let me know:smiley_th
 

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Sparky!!!
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GP sounds like your stator is fine. Looks like most of the damage is caused by battery acid dripping on it along with the heat from the goats belly. I would look into getting another R/R asap... now just to let you know I am a tight wad, so when mine went o the toast side, I went against better my better judgment and got an R/R from ebay... it came off of a vn1500 ... payed like 50 bucks with shipping for it, and haven't looked back. ( I say better judgment because being a mechanic i never put used electrical parts on any kind of vehicle. But since I wasn't sure the R/R was my problem.. I didn't want to dish out 119 for a new one.) If i had to do it again i would still go with the ebay R/R
 

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Stator seems to be operational, should I be concerned that it read 0.9 ohms between the yellow wires?
I bet your ohmmeter reading with the probes shorted together is nonzero. Subtract that reading from the reading you got from the stator and you have the startor resistance. Anyway, as slim said, your stator is good.

The final cause of the destruction of your R/R connectors is heat. Just a few ohms of resistance over the contact(s) and the high current going through that connector generates a lot of heat. I am not arguing that the initial cause could be battery acid. As often adviced on the forum, a bit of dielectric grease in the contacts helps keep the contacts good. No need to overdo it by filling the whole connector with grease.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Originally Posted by letitflight
I am getting the same readings too on my sceewter; can you tell me what voltage your were getting coming out of the yellow wires?
all 3 measured alike, as far as I can tell it looks good, I have another r/r on my parts bike :) but it's at my bro's place 2hrs south of here :( he says it tests out good :)

1k rpm
18.5v (+-.5v)

2.5k rpm
42.5v (+-.5v)

4k rpm
64.0v (+-.5v)
 

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get that R/R up front!

After all is said and done about fixing it, get that R/R unit up front!
Just do it!

I went around and around and put it on the side and all that stuff.
Bought two new R/R units before I finally gave up and mounted it up alongside the radiator.
No problems since.
Oh, and I also had to get a new junction box and new plugs too. Melted all kinds of stuff before I got things done right.

Get it up front where Kawasaki should have put it in the first place!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
get that R/R unit up front! Just do it! -mounted it up alongside the radiator. No problems since.
Thats what I was thinking, strapped to the frame, or maybe the crash bar? do you have a pic showing yours?
 

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Calif Rider
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As for relocating the R+R it should be done. It produces a lot of heat on its own, and then being just behind the engine where all the heat goes as you ride. Once you get it relocated that is if it okey or the new one. Ride the bike for about 20 minutes or so and feel how hot the R+R can get. It is hard to hold you fingers around it for more than about 3 seconds. Hope you can get it all fix again, with little trouble.
 

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Voltage drop between 'plug' and 'relay' will commonly cause burned up plugs due to wax and anti-corrosion componant.
Install new relay and plug and run amps test and check for heat at terminals.
Use dielectric grease.
 

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The Professor
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Voltage drop between 'plug' and 'relay' will commonly cause burned up plugs due to wax and anti-corrosion componant.
Install new relay and plug and run amps test and check for heat at terminals.
Use dielectric grease.
His problem was caused by battery acid and not a bad connection. :beerchug:
 
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