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Premium Member
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've installed and relocated the Mosfet R/R, all seems well.
Wired directly to battery, not using existing harness.
Now need to address the non-working headlight issue.

Will moving blue wire in jb from pin 8 to 7 address this as I've seen posted?

Also, before I start tugging on the blue wire, is it just a matter of pulling it out and inserting into pin 7 (plug and play)? Does it have a connector that allows it to be pulled out and re-inserted, or do I need to do anything special (solder, etc.) to get into pin 7?

After going through the R/R install, don't want to screw up this last part of what has been a successful project so far.

Appreciate the help.
 

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Old Truck Junkie
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4,133 Posts
Disconnect plug. Use a small screw driver like one used for glasses screws and push it into the appliance side of the plug. Push it onto the top side of the terminal end. This will push the holding clip down and allow the terminal to come out. Hope this helps.
 

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Is your stator working properly? One leg from the stator gets spliced and goes to the junction box for the operation of the headlight relay. If you move the blue wire, from what I understand the headlight will come on when the key is turned on. When my headlight stopped working it was the stator, It was the only way I knew I had a problem.
 

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Is your stator working properly? One leg from the stator gets spliced and goes to the junction box for the operation of the headlight relay. If you move the blue wire, from what I understand the headlight will come on when the key is turned on. When my headlight stopped working it was the stator, It was the only way I knew I had a problem.
If someone wants to wire the mosfet R/R without using the existing harness, should they splice the blue wire off one leg of the stator wires or is it better just to solder the stator wires into the harness after all? If the latter, how do you deal with the old R/R plug?

Sorry, just a bit confused on this point and perhaps the clarification will help others as well.

John
 

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I Had to replace my stator because it burned up. In the process I also replaced my R/R with a mosfet. The only wires I didnt use from the original R/R plug was the Brown, White & BLK/Y wires. I used the original stator wires from the R/R connector. My new stator plugged into the original bullet connectors. If I had taken the new stator wires and pluged them directly to the new R/R then I would of had to do something for my headlight, Move the pin or run a new wire to the JB. Since I used the orginal stator wires that were in the harness I didnt have to worry about the headlight, it worked as designed.
Moving the wire to the other pin on the JB connector bypasses the headlight relay. It will work just fine, however my headlight going out was the only indication I had that there was a problem. Good thing it was dark that day when I left. My bike would of left me stranded when the battery died due to it was not being charged. I still need to install a meter to monitor my charging system.

Here is a link of how I did my mosfet.

http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18361&highlight=mosfet
 

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Premium Member
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
johnm,

I followed the directions from roadstercycle, and wired the stator directly to the mosfet and that directly to the battery. Cut the 3 yellow wires from the stator at the bullet connectors, soldered the provided connectors onto those wires, and plugged those into the provided plug that went into the mosfet.

Taped up the 3 cut bullet connectors. I've pulled the plug to the original r/r. Now it is just sitting unconnected. Left original r/r in place, and I've put the mosfet over the left passenger peg.

So, from what I've read here on previous posts, choice is to move the blue wire in the junction box, or splice the brown wire from the old r/r harness onto one of the new yellow stator wires - though I believe I saw a post indicating that resulted in a drop in voltage for someone.
 

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Hope this gets to you in time, Dont splice that brown wire to a stator wire. As soon as you turn the ignition key on that will connect the positive lead from the battery to that brown wire via the ignition switch. The purpose of that wire was to send the output of the R/R that went to the battery back to the R/R as a sensing signal, I guess so the R/R new what it was outputting. you splice that to a stator wire your splicing a wire that has 12-14VDC to a wire that has 50-70VAC.
 

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7 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks, I wasn't headed that route, and only remembered the reference in another post. Wouldn't want to follow example below. Actually alternative is brown wire to yellow wire in junction box.

Post 7 reads
"i had the same problem when i installed mine so i wired it up like the factory with the stator lead to the jb then the r/r would not charge what i did was take the brown sense wire from the old r/r connector and solder it to the yellow wire from the small plug on the j/b. the headlight is on all the time now there is no longer a delay to turn on the headlight. hope this helps "

I misread this and tapped the Brown Sense wire into the yellow wire from the stator leading into the JB. Obviously, my headlight turned on (only after pushing start button), no other lights did, and in 30 seconds the main 30 amp fuse blew. I disconnected the wires I just put together to realize I just sent VAC voltage on the brown wire and it melted and shorted to the old ground wire in the no longer used R/R connector. So, I disconnected and fixed my cut. Now I am stumped, I do not see any other yellow wires coming from the JB other than the one from the stator. My headlight does not work at all, and I do not know where to attach the brown wire.

I think that this brown wire just needs to get 12V power to turn on the headlight, but I am not sure.
 
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