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Discussion Starter #1
do they fail over time with symptoms or just one day they decide to retire?

ever since my bike wasn't charging i have been freaking out over the charging system. replaced the r/r and was getting awesome readings on the volt meter. perfect stuff. rode the bike for a few weeks with no problems whatsoever. rode almost everyday. cold starts/ hot starts. a couple short rides and a few slightly longer rides (nothing over 30 miles). anyway on saturday i rode out to my dad's house about 20 miles away and we degoated the bike (i love it degoated btw!). pretty hot day but not a scorcher. rode home through semi-slow traffic and all was fine. i pull into my driveway and up to my gate, turn the wheel all the way to the right to reach my gate and the bike died. couldn't start it. checked the voltage on the battery and it was 11.9

charged the battery (diehard MF battery from sears) overnight and put it back in the bike. 12.6 v without starting the bike. started the bike and at idle it was at 13ish. reved the engine and it would go up to 13.8 or 13.9 and after i revved it to 5000k and released the throttle it would go up to 14v right before it would go back to about 13. right after i put the new r/r on it was going up into low 14's all the time. so its responding to the rpms.. is it a big deal its not reading up into the 14s as long as its ablve 13.5 at crusing rpms? i did NOT let teh bike warm up a lot before i did these tests.
per the charts my numbers are ok but seem low?

the stator is fine when i do the test for AC voltage. 20vac at idle and up to 70vac on all the yellow wires. all reading are roughly the same.
i have a hard time testing the r/r. doesn't like to read steady.

so i dunno why after a couple weeks my battery decided to go unless it just discharged itself normally. do you guys throw the battery tender on often even if you ride a few times per week at least?

maybe it could be bad connection somewhere or something? what is the best way to go about cleaning the connectors, etc?

i just want to be able to hit the road and not worry about the charging stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Ccspinner said:
You could be right about a diryt connector, Did you solder the yellow stator wires or still the bullet plugs? They have been known to cause poor charging MAke sure all your grounds are clean and tight. Look for any corosion at the R/R plug. Do you have a volt gague on the bike when you ride? Good idea so you can watch it and know what is normal. 13.5 is not bad, Do you have any accessory's on the bike (Radio, Driving lights) That might be draning more than should. Other than that just general safty inspections.

i accidentally made two threads on this.. haha!

no volt guage yet for when riding buti plan to. no accesories. i haven't soldered anything. i am not too educated on wiring and grounds/etc..

yeah, i just wonder why 13.5 instead of the 14.3 or whatever i wa sgetting a coupel weeks ago. i guess it could just vary huh? bu tthen why did the battery decide to die on me again?
 

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sounds like a bad connection somewhere.... or it could be the regulator. 1st clean all the connections, and make sure the are secure. at crusing rpms, you should be hitting around the mid 14's, and at 6-7k you should be high 14's to low 15's. doesnt seem like its the stator, but it may be.
 

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Check the connections to the battery. Make sure they are clean!! Dirty connectors act as insulators restricting electron flow and causing heat. They also will not allow the battery to charge as they are acting like a big resistor and not allowing a full charge.
Check the connectors to the r/r as well. Same applies with dirty connections there.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
where do i get a new plastic connector that plugs into the r/r? it has some slight corrosion in one of the connectors... could be the problem?
 

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nachos4life said:
turn the wheel all the way to the right to reach my gate and the bike died. couldn't start it.
I seem to recall someone else having this problem and it had something to do with the ignition switch grounding out or something, which might be the cause of lower voltage than perviously.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
hyperbuzzin said:
I seem to recall someone else having this problem and it had something to do with the ignition switch grounding out or something, which might be the cause of lower voltage than perviously.

how does one check for such a thing? excuse my ignorance!:p
 

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nachos4life said:
how does one check for such a thing?
Check the post HERE, in the Vulcan Verses.

Not saying for sure that's what happened, but might be.
Sounds like something is loose or grounding out though, if it only did it when turning hard one way or the other.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ok, so i am going to cut off teh block plug that goes into the r/r... it looks pretty fried. i am hoping the r/r is ok...we'll see.

anyway, i am having a helluva time finding a replacement plug. so i am going to cut the wires and solde ron some type of connector that i can either solder right on the r/r plugs or somehow slide over them tightly. i read about someone using spade connectors to do something like this somewhere on the internet. yahoo group maybe...
any suggestiosn or advice?
 

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You could also just destroy the nylon plug housing leaving the individual wires and their spade connectors intact. Just be sure to label where each of the wires plugs into the r/r. The plug is just a convenience to allow you to hook up the wires properly with one operation rather than plug each wire in individually. Properly marked. there would be no problem with hooking them up one at a time.
 

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The wires and plugs should come right out of the housing. You may have to use a small flathead to push down on the little "stay" that is keeping each one in there.
 

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nachos4life said:
ok, so i am going to cut off teh block plug that goes into the r/r... it looks pretty fried. i am hoping the r/r is ok...we'll see.

anyway, i am having a helluva time finding a replacement plug. so i am going to cut the wires and solde ron some type of connector that i can either solder right on the r/r plugs or somehow slide over them tightly. i read about someone using spade connectors to do something like this somewhere on the internet. yahoo group maybe...
any suggestiosn or advice?
The connections in the plug probably corroded. Trying to pass a lot of amps across any resistance causes a lot of heat. I can't guarantee fixing that will fix everything, but you definitely have to fix it before you start replacing stuff. Using the old connectors will work if you can get them clean and shiny. New connectors would probably be less work with better results. Apply some dielectric grease when you plug things back together to keep moisture out of the connections.
 

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havin the corrosion at the plug too

:(I just bot a 90 vn750, started fine, drove it a few miles, ran great!
after driving it to my dad's then to the local Citgo, it wanted to act like the battery wasn't being charged, and after it died about half a mile from my home, looked all over, finding the regulator under the battery, found some corrosion on the terminals, so i am gonna replace the corroded wires individually, and clean the connections.
Gonna buy a MF battery too if everything checks out after doin that, just to make sure like all others have suggested.
Hope it works, the bike runs real good when its charged up, gonna try to make a daily driver with her!
 

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where do i get a new plastic connector that plugs into the r/r? it has some slight corrosion in one of the connectors... could be the problem?
The R/R harness connector is available online from a couple of sources. I've seen them for sale from a couple of obscure retailers. Unfortunately, I didn't bookmark them!

However, when I bought a universal high power R/R from RM Stator (rm10-515), it came with a splice-in pigtail with a female connector exactly like ours. I called them and asked if they would sell the connector body and crimp inserts seperately and they sent me some. I subsequently had the same conversation with Rick of Rick's Motorsport Electrics and he assured me that they have the connector and inserts also.

Next weekend I am planning to replace the stator wires with 12 AWG all the way back to the stator and will use one of the connectors that I have.

Hope this helps.
 
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