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Discussion Starter #1
The r/r plug A3 and G melted not the wire but the pin also stator was sopose to be replased in o6 but no proof but say so from dealer the stator plug conector infron of the battery box has been cut out and wired together. I need to know if I can get a new 3 pin conector for stator wire and a 6 pin for r/r. Also what would cause the G pin and the A3 pin to melt.
 

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1986 VN750
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3,255 Posts

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1986 VN750
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3,255 Posts

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Premium Member
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255 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info on the conector.
Ok the stator test why do you have to test from the bullet connectors wouldn't it be the same at the six pin conector to the r/r?
One more thing since I'm asking I have a blinker problem left works but right comes on but dosnt flash any ideas ?

Thanks again guys for all the help
 

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1986 VN750
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3,255 Posts
Thanks for the info on the conector.
Ok the stator test why do you have to test from the bullet connectors wouldn't it be the same at the six pin conector to the r/r?
One more thing since I'm asking I have a blinker problem left works but right comes on but dosnt flash any ideas ?

Thanks again guys for all the help
They are usually done at the bullet connectors for ease of access. Some ditch them entirely and solder the wires together to remove them as a point of resistance. I just find it's easy to test from the bullet connectors. It wouldn't hurt to use some electrical contact cleaner on the bullet connectors while you're there.
 

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I always suggest reading out your stator at the R/R connector, If the readings are not correct then take your readings again at the bullet connectors, this would prove that the segment of wires between the R/R connector and the bullet connectors is good or bad.
Sorry to bust the bubble on the previous point made but taking the readings at the bullets due to a difference in resistance because the wires are a bit longer is a mute point. There sould not be a noticabe difference atleast with a standard multimeter. Theres not that much difference in length
 

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Sparky!!!
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I forget I use a professional grade multimeter since I am issued the newest one once a year and the old ones are allowed to come back to my garage.
 

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Hey slim, how much of a difference is there according to what you use? I use fluke all the time at work and still dont see that much of a difference, but im usually checking 22, or 26AWG. and sometimes 16AWG.
 

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1986 VN750
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I use a Fluke 87-V and am quite happy with the results. I have compared it to a cheap Chinese-made multimeter I have, and often find the results differ slightly.

You do get what you pay for, but for basic testing I am sure a lower end meter would be fine.
 

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Sparky!!!
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I forget my model number.. I will check next trip out to the garage, but its not that much different, but enough to through off the service manual numbers... which I have also found to be very uninformative for the R/R and stator tests. I found just a little corrosion on a connector is enough to make the R/R and stator fail the resistance tests, so I have since just done output voltage tests on the R/R, and AC voltage tests on the stator. Once I get those number I check for continuity between A1,A2,A3 & engine ground (Stator Side of Bullet connectors), and then A1,A2,A3 & frame ground on the R/R side of the but connectors. then lastly I test between A1,A2,A3 on the R/R side of Bullet Connectors and R/R 6 Pin Connector for an open circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Up date sorry it took so long. just tired of messing with the thing had to take a brake. The bullet conectors from the stator a1 a2 a3 I get .7 ohms and open lead to ground. Showing 12.57 charge to battery at 3000 rpm and up. Today I replaced the r/r and same readings also bike starts like **** unless fully charged and then some times still have to jump off anyways any ideas guys. Not sure if that's a carb isue or weak power.
 

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Up date sorry it took so long. just tired of messing with the thing had to take a brake. The bullet conectors from the stator a1 a2 a3 I get .7 ohms and open lead to ground. Showing 12.57 charge to battery at 3000 rpm and up. Today I replaced the r/r and same readings also bike starts like **** unless fully charged and then some times still have to jump off anyways any ideas guys. Not sure if that's a carb isue or weak power.
Check for ac voltage at A1,2,3 @3000 rpm,should read between40 and 60 VAC,I have found the resistance test to be inconclusive and somewhat misleading.

If the jumper cables make it start better,it is most likely not fuel related.I didn't read the entire thread but if you haven't got the proper ac output from the stator the other readings don't matter,If you do have ac out out within range, you could have battery problems.I'm betting ac voltages are low.Check between the stator leads when testing voltages ,not to ground,And check all combintions of pairs of leads.
 
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