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Discussion Starter #1
I'm trying to get a MOSFET replacement for my R/R. When making enquiries, it seems that all the MOSFET units only have 5 wires ( 3 from the stator, +ve and -ve ) I gave the supplier some of the suggestions from this forum, but they only have 5 wires. Is this a big problem? When I study the cct diagram, it seems that I should be able to splice into the +ve wire to create the 6th wire. Does that make sense? Any advice would be very welcome. I'm a technician by trade, so I'm very handy with a soldering iron.
 

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I'm trying to get a MOSFET replacement for my R/R. When making enquiries, it seems that all the MOSFET units only have 5 wires ( 3 from the stator, +ve and -ve ) I gave the supplier some of the suggestions from this forum, but they only have 5 wires. Is this a big problem? When I study the cct diagram, it seems that I should be able to splice into the +ve wire to create the 6th wire. Does that make sense? Any advice would be very welcome. I'm a technician by trade, so I'm very handy with a soldering iron.
I have an upgraded Mosfet and it works great. All you need are the 3 stator wires plugged in and the hot and ground to the battery. No need to make any changes. I get 13.4 at idle and over 14.2 running. Rectifier also stays cooler.
 

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On the factory wiring, there's a (brown?) 'monitor' wire that isn't used when you change to a MOSFET. This monitor wire senses voltage for the stock r/r. I believe it was in between the positive and negative wires on the plug.

Of course you do need to splice the yellow wire for the headlight relay into one of the stator leads, for the headlight to function normally.

I have a MOSFET and don't have anything spliced to the positive wire going to the battery, it does have a maxi fuse inline.
 

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On the factory wiring, there's a (brown?) 'monitor' wire that isn't used when you change to a MOSFET. This monitor wire senses voltage for the stock r/r. I believe it was in between the positive and negative wires on the plug.

Of course you do need to splice the yellow wire for the headlight relay into one of the stator leads, for the headlight to function normally.

I have a MOSFET and don't have anything spliced to the positive wire going to the battery, it does have a maxi fuse inline.
Have to disagree. All you have to do is tape off the brown wire that is not needed anymore. No need to splice in the headlight relay. Everything will work as normal.
 

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Have to disagree. All you have to do is tape off the brown wire that is not needed anymore.
Well, I think that is what I was trying to say.


No need to splice in the headlight relay.
Trying to work from memory, but I think I had to splice the headlight trigger. I later clipped it off because I did the bypass. The reason for this splice is because I ran all new wires from the stator to the r/r.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for your advice. Much appreciated.
 

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1986 VN750
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You can just buy a Rick's Hotshot R/R and it'll be plug and play. They're MOSFET now and I have one on my VFR!
 

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Quite a few of us use the Mosfet supplied by Roadster Cycle. It is model FH020AA. Jack is a great guy and stands behind his product. Good info on the site. This is a plug and play rectifier.
http://roadstercycle.com/
 

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1986 VN750
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Quite a few of us use the Mosfet supplied by Roadster Cycle. It is model FH020AA. Jack is a great guy and stands behind his product. Good info on the site. This is a plug and play rectifier.
http://roadstercycle.com/
It isn't plug and play. You have to change the connectors...

He charges a bit much for those, R/Rs though. There are several models that you can find on eBay for around $60. For the effort in changing the wiring connectors, the Rick's Hotshot sounds like a better deal.

Model / Output / Source Bike
FH001 / 35A / FJR 1300
FH008EB / 40A / BR 600 RR
FH010BA / 50A / ZX-10R
FH012AA / 50A / FJR 1300, R1
FH012BA / 50A / ZX-14R, ZR1400, GTR1400
FH014AA / 50A / CBR 1000 RR
FH016AA / 40A / ZX-6R

Our regular R/R is under or at 30amp anyways, so any of the MOSFET based R/Rs look to be an upgrade. I see no reason to shoot for a FH012AA, as the FH010BA (the one I used), and many others, are also 50A. I'd cross reference the bikes years, but that's the basic list.
 

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I've got a MOSFET sitting in my garage if your interested. The fins are larger so it can't be used in the stick location. I had it mounted under the left side cover.
Shoot me a pm if your interested. It will be alot cheaper than a new one.
 

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I think it was best to get rid of those old factory connectors and wiring, the roadstercycle kit has larger wire, larger spades in the r/r.
 
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