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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have 1 vulcan 750 runnning just fine, but a while back i was given the oppertunity to buy 2 more, so i did. i bought 2 more for dirt cheap, they both have issues. They're whole complete bikes, except ones missing the carbs, and both are missing the batteries. My plan is to dissassemble bothe bikes and make myself another working vulcan, who knows maybe I'll sell it when I'm finished... One is a 86 the other is a 93 both are 750's and i planned on keeping the 93 as it has a better registration situation then the 86, so the 86 will be parted completely, i will be using some of the parts for my 93 but will have many left over... I'm williing to sell them or even trade them, if you have hard saddlebags, or a clean windscreen, and want my parts... let me know, that's what i'm seeking feel free to email me at [email protected] or just text me at 4158276553, let me know your from this site... On another note... I had some questions..

1: If I remove the emission control devices on the vn750 engine, would it change the way the bike runs, and if so what happens? I was told, yes... it makes it run better... i was also told no, it makes it run worse, and even told it makes no difference except a few pound loss of the overall weight...

2: I'm wanting to remove the stock exhaust goats belly and the silencers, and run straight pipes all the way out... I havnt decided if i want to run dual pipes out the back, or connect them both into 1 like a drag pipe... My question is, how does that change the way the bike runs from its stock set up? My inclination is that it helps a little bit as it doesn't go through a mixing chamber and it doesn't go through a silencer...

3: I planned on doing either 2 things... an all white bike( pearl white with a light amount of metallic flake) even the frame white... engine white...white wheels, white fork lowers and about anything i can paint... i was thinking white... white exhaust wrap on the pipes... or an all blacked out bike... black everything... which is easier to do, but i think is like cliche... I want your opinions... if you could do a vulcan any way you wanted, what would you do?

4: I'm also thinking of stacking 2 of the radiators, putting one on in the original position and a second right on top using spacers and bolts, then plumbing them in parallel. using the same in and out of the regular system... trying to get extended run time before the fan kicks on... basically having extra amount of cool coolant on hand... whats your thoughts?
 

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I just did the removal of the emission control stuff on my bike last week. I noticed an immediate difference. The power feels more immediate. Whereas before I felt I gave it throttle and there was a buildup before the bike would react to the throttle.
 
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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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I want to make one into a digger,with a long Springer and lowered rear shocks

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks @Rob112o, that's what my inclinations was... I'm building this bike up from the bottom, so it'll be easy for me to just not add the emissions stuff. About how long did it take you to take it all out, and put your bike back together?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
@OleDirtyDoc , that would be pretty cool, I don't know where I'd find a springer front end for these bikes... part of my ambition in this, is that I don't have to spend relatively to much money. I have a working VN I can ride around... so, I can mess with this and maybe by the summer it'll be done and I could cruise around on it... I do know I'll be spending a lot of time painting things, and fabricating a new exhaust system for it... which ever route I decide to go...
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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would need to stretch the frame and kick the rake out on the neck. I think all balls bearings sells bearings that fit a hardly front end stem that fit our bikes

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With straight pipes and less back pressure, you'll need some larger jets and lots of tuning in the carbs, and you'll lose low end torque, maybe gain some in the higher rpm range.

Stacking radiators - Not really needed. About 25-30mph and above, the fan shouldn't be running. The fan will run anyway once coolant temp hits the mark, regardless of capacity. 0-10mph in hot weather, the fan will be on. Warmup would probably take longer also.

Emissions - What I liked best is removing all the clutter from the engine. With the airbox gone, carb work is easier, and the intake air isn't heated by the engine. Airflow over the heads is better too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
@Spockster , I live near San Fransisco, there is a lot of stop and go when going into the city, say from one side of the city to the other... the fan is on almost the entire time even when you ride super conservatively. I have nothing wrong with the cooling system on my 91 VN, it's bone stock, I have to be going at 35 or more and in low rpm for the bike to not overheat... on open freeway with no traffic, i notice its not a problem. If the outside temp is say 85 I notice my temp gauge is not even half way... maybe like 3/8 in 5th gear going about 65-70... One thing I did know is that the bike does not act well when your sustaining speed of 100+ for more than say 2 miles... the temp gauge goes up and the engine begins to get sticky... when I put hard bags on the side it might be a nice thing to have the second radiator, as I may not be able to split lanes as easily and I think it'll handle the city traffic better and also when I feel like getting my speed on, I might make it more than 2 ish miles before the engine begins to get sticky. I noticed it makes no difference, whether I use full synthetic or regular oil the engine still does that at high speeds.

I like to wheelie the bike, if I go straight pipes and did the ear shave mod, do you think I'll loose enough torque that I won't be able to wheelie the bike? my other VN750 is bone stock, and I can wheelie that thing ok... a friend said it would run leaner, with out changing the jets, but if I changed the jets, so it was right would I get that low end torque back? I'm definitely getting rid of all the emissions stuff though the evap canister and hoses... what not...
 

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Should be quicker for you since your building up. Even still it took me less than 2 hours. At the time I had a full tank in and didn't feel like draining so I just pulled all the lines out. I was able to get to all the clamps and loosen. The air box is still there obviously. I plugged the big hose that was going to the one evap valve thing. I still have the black box, but nothing in going to it now. I plugged the rear car. I removed the valve that had the 3 big hoses and one small. Also removed the little black cylinder thing next to the black box. All the other hoses I removed though. When I get to replacing this stock seat is when ill get to removing that black box and air box.
 

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I'm over in alameda by the way. I don't have any overheating problems. I'm using that Engine Ice and it's been great!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
@ Rob112o , dude... you're my neighborhood?! lol I'm in Novato, just north of San Rafael. Its not that my bike over heats, it doesn't, its just that when your in stop and go traffic in the city, you're relying on that little fan. My bike only overheats when I'm holding 100+ mph for more than say 2 miles... it doesn't really like that... it's when I go over the Richmond/ San Rafael bridge I'll gun the bike and hold it there all the way over the bridge. The engine doesn't really like that and with the stock set up, it doesn't get the airflow it should, especially at those speeds, the radiator is really not enough at those speeds. I'm not exactly sure why, but I think at those speeds the air doesn't really pass through the radiator, I think whats happening is it hits the radiator and reflects down to the ground when your doing 100+.
 
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