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I had 20,000+ miles on mine when I replaced the dampers, and not because they where bad, but I was in there doing a stator.. they can last a long time, and we dont know why exactly some last longer than others. maybe its the maintainance schedule (oil changes specifically) and type of oil used during changes.
 

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I had 20,000+ miles on mine when I replaced the dampers, and not because they where bad, but I was in there doing a stator.. they can last a long time, and we dont know why exactly some last longer than others. maybe its the maintainance schedule (oil changes specifically) and type of oil used during changes.
That's what I thought, acidic oil and maybe some excess heat. Have seen a few stators come out all coked up with sludgy engine cases. Once those bushings get hardened up, they probably don't hold together much longer. It's either two or three of them that have those little ridges that probably break right off.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
I used the penny method. The penny held, but it was difficult to remove. I am assuming 400 ft lbs, as that's what the torque wrench is rated for. Nothing looked damaged.

In the grand scheme of costs, the dampers are pretty cheap, and important.
I'm just running into budgetary issues and trying to cut costs. I'm up to about $800 (honing cylinders, rings, new camshaft and rocker, engine mounts, all the gaskets).

I am strongly considering skipping reworking the heads/valve. That's $200 in parts and $500 in labor (I don't have the tools for that). Another $400 if I buy new valves.
 

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If there's still a good margin on the valves, it won't need new ones. You could just remove the carbon, lap the valves to the seats (keep each valve in it's original position), and be sure to clean any varnish from the valve stems (and remove varnish from valve guides).
 

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I used a rag instead of a penny. It locked up the gears fine. The Clymer manual got this one right. It says the threads are left hand. Where did you get a torque wrench that goes up to 400 lbs.? We had those at work. You needed something that big to compress the springs on air brakes. But the biggest one I have at home is only 150 ft.lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
I used a rag instead of a penny. It locked up the gears fine. The Clymer manual got this one right. It says the threads are left hand. Where did you get a torque wrench that goes up to 400 lbs.? We had those at work. You needed something that big to compress the springs on air brakes. But the biggest one I have at home is only 150 ft.lbs.
I believe my manual also said it was left-hand. I just got ahead of myself.

The specs on the wrench say 400 lbs. It's not that big or expensive either.
 

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I believe my manual also said it was left-hand. I just got ahead of myself.

The specs on the wrench say 400 lbs. It's not that big or expensive either.
Didn't realize it was an impact gun, that baby would knock the bolts off without blocking the crank.

Mistakes will be made! I aced the left/right threads and moofed the gear placement. There's even pic in the manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I dropped one of the large head nuts down into the crank case last night! :doh:
I can still see it, and I'm hoping I can retrieve it with a magnet. I'll be dammed if I have to split the case over this!!!

My first round of parts (piston rings, lower gaskets, etc) were delayed in shipping. They were ordered 4/19 and said they would ship 4/23, but as of this morning they still haven't shipped! I'm doing what I can until the parts arrive.

I made a bracket for side mounting of the R/R and primed it. I need to top-coat it with gloss black.
I'll keep adding pictures to the Google album I linked in the first post, as I go.

Some of my posts that are related to my project:
https://www.vn750.com/forum/31-engine-exhaust-cooling/105405-where-do-these-parts-go.html
https://www.vn750.com/forum/31-engine-exhaust-cooling/105375-do-i-need-these-tools.html
https://www.vn750.com/forum/31-engine-exhaust-cooling/105169-head-studs.html
https://www.vn750.com/forum/31-engine-exhaust-cooling/105167-crankshaft-damper-replacement.html
https://www.vn750.com/forum/19-electrical/105355-tuxedo-mod-question.html
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Guys, all my parts FINALLY arrived! This might be the weekend I am able to fire her up again!

When installing the rear cylinder, it felt a bit tighter than I expected (no cams installed at that time). I rotated the engine and it seems like it fixed itself. Perhaps a ring hadn't seated yet? Idk. It rotates all the way through smoothly now.

I still have to torque down the heads, install the cams, valve covers, clutch, stator, side covers, and reinstall the engine. I'm excited but nervous at the same time!
 

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Discussion Starter #50
I torqued down the heads this morning. And then I started installing the camshaft, and realize I had not put in the upper cam chain tensioners! It turns out, you can actually get these in, with the cylinder head bolted down! It takes a little bit of wiggling, but it will go in!

I thought I had lost another weekend waiting on new head gaskets....
 

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I torqued down the heads this morning. And then I started installing the camshaft, and realize I had not put in the upper cam chain tensioners! It turns out, you can actually get these in, with the cylinder head bolted down! It takes a little bit of wiggling, but it will go in!

I thought I had lost another weekend waiting on new head gaskets....
Shoot, I would reuse the gaskets if it hasn't been fired up. Think I did that once.

Always hated the end of a timing chain job. Picking up tools, cleaning up, then finding the oil slinger laying up on the firewall.
 
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