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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I don't know if I have anything useful to add, but I thought I would post pictures of my progress for anyone interested.

I haven't removed the front bevel assembly yet.

EDIT:
I am adding the link to my photo album to the first post, so new followers can find it quicker.

To anyone that wants to follow along, I have a Google Photo album. It's pictures of my progress.
 

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I left the bevel gear on mine, but I only tilted the engine. You have to be able to manage stabbing the driveshaft onto the gear as the engine goes in, has to happen before any bolts can go in. Impossible for one person hefting the engine by hand or even on a jack most likely.

Left the exhaust manifolds on too.
 

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bevel gear is relatively easy to remove, and reinstall. only tough part is stabbing the front of the driveshaft into place as you install the gear assembly (would be same if you didnt remove the bevel gear, but with the rest of the engine 'helpin' you screw it up or get mad at it).

the only thing to remember about removing the bevel gear from the driveshaft is to keep the driveshaft as far rearward as possible to prevent it from dropping off the rear splines, or you have your work cut out trying to align them
 

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I should add, while I left the bevel gear in place, the rear gear was removed which made it easier to manipulate the shaft (was doing rear tire and spline lube at the same time).

At the time my thinking was, one less gasket, and to remove the least amount of parts as possible. The carbs, cables, exhaust manifolds, etc. Also had an extra pair of hands when the engine went back in place. Did it twice in two days!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
My drive shaft came off the rear spline while pulling the bevel case. But I've taken the rear apart before and it wasn't terrible. Just one more thing to assemble later on. For now, it's just sitting in the shaft casing.

It looked like the bevel case had its own fill and drain port on it. But I don't recall noticing these before.
It also didn't have its own fluid in it, just engine oil.

I plan to tinker on the engine over a period of a couple months. I'm in no rush. I have until April. My wife wasn't happy with the parts all over the garage, so they're neatly tucked onto shelves now. :)

With few exceptions, I've been able to put every screw back into it's spot after removing the item. This helps me keep track of the screws. Only the subframe bolts and the bevel gear cover screws have had to remain off.

The front spline looked good (unworn) but dry. Should that have moly grease on it?
 

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on the bevel case, it gets lubrication from the engine/transmission. no separate supply. probably just had some leftover sitting in it. so, engine oil is the proper lube for the case

front splines dont tend to wear out, but a little moly on them wont hurt a thing
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
And so it begins...
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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Discussion Starter #9
In the album I linked to, there's a picture of the cam with a lobe circled. It looks worn. Replace?
 

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from that angle, it definately looks worn.. check the follower for that lobe and see what it looks like.

If your replacing the cam, I would look at replacing both on that head, and if do-able, replace all 4 (both heads), and definately check the followers and such for all the valves
 

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from that angle, it definately looks worn.. check the follower for that lobe and see what it looks like.

If your replacing the cam, I would look at replacing both on that head, and if do-able, replace all 4 (both heads), and definately check the followers and such for all the valves
+1

Also make sure all the lifters (lash adjusters) still have spring action, not stuck.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'll have to check my budget for all 4 cams.

In the meantime, anyone have a flywheel holder tool and a rotor puller tool?
 

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the flywheel/rotor (left side of engine, where the stator lives), the puller is just a bolt threaded into the end, and can be 'borrowed' from some place else on the bike, but my swiss cheese brain seems to have let the info leak out.

a clutch basket tool... not real expensive is you need to buy one, but some people have made due without it. a strap wrench around the outside of the basket may work, some have put a couple bolts into the bosses for the clutch springs and put a pry bar between them (I wouldnt do this, as the perches are not all that strong with loads in that direction).
 

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Made a post earlier and didn't hit the button.

I used a penny to block the gears, it bends the penny 90° but doesn't hurt the gears. Have also done it by stuffing a folded shop rag in there but it shreds up some lint onto the gears.

The balancer gear bolt is left-hand threads.

Can get a whole box of the puller bolts for $20 at Fastenal, the correct size is posted around here somewhere (metric). I already had one from Motion Pro, Honda uses the same puller.

Maybe it's the rear axle that works for a puller? I know the rear axle nut will pull the spark plug wells.
 

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for the life of me, I cant remember which bolt fits the rotor, and I even did that job.. using the bolt made rotor removal extremely easy, and reinstalling is just plain stupid simple.

note: the bolt for holding it on is smaller than the bolt to remove. the inside of the rotor is threaded as well as the inside of the crankshaft. the rotor threading is for removal, the crankshaft for installing/retaining.
 

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Puller bolt size is 18mm with 1.5mm threads - 18mm x 1.5mm

for the life of me, I cant remember which bolt fits the rotor, and I even did that job.. using the bolt made rotor removal extremely easy, and reinstalling is just plain stupid simple.

note: the bolt for holding it on is smaller than the bolt to remove. the inside of the rotor is threaded as well as the inside of the crankshaft. the rotor threading is for removal, the crankshaft for installing/retaining.
Found your post from 2017. :)

https://www.vn750.com/forum/31-engi...29-trouble-removing-flywheel-look-here-2.html

alternative to the flywheel puller tool (the bolt), is a bolt for the upper chain tensioner.. just above the acct (or mcct if converted), on outside of the head. I (and others) have used it with success. its the right size thread,, just a hair short. you can use a small socket inside it (its hollow) to give it that little extra length (it dont need much). pops right off using it.
 

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great job on finding that.. I remember now!
Thanks, it was mostly luck, it was about the 2nd result when I searched "puller size".

Would be best to get a few bolt threads in before it contacts the spacer (socket), use the shortest socket possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I added up the costs of all the gaskets, o-rings, and 1 camshaft and 2 rockers.
I'm looking at $465.08 from Partzilla or $620.24 from Kawasakipartshouse.com! GULP!

The camshaft is $157.33 from Kawasakipartshouse.com and 117.06 from Revzilla.com.
The rocker is $68.76 or $49.54 each.
Any cheaper reputable sources than these sites?
I don't really want to trust Ebay with parts like this.

My coworker says all the rockers look like they have significant wear, and suspects that it ran dry at some point in its life.
Should I be running a zinc additive?
I run this oil. But I've only used this for 21k to 27k miles (changed every 3k miles). I don't know what the previous owner used.

It's hard to spend this sort of cash on an old bike....
I still gotta get approval from my wife.
It's already apart because I wasn't going to go another season risking the coolant mixing with the oil.
 

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Ebay is the first place I look. You can find good used parts there, even new ones. Can't remember ever buying anything from the parts websites at all. I've saved plenty of cash shopping ebay.

Otherwise, close your eyes, invert wallet, and shake well. All the parts sites have astronomical prices, and always high shipping.
 
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