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Giggity!
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4,307 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all. There's been some discrepancy lately what to do when installing your new Mosfet R&R. I've been discussing the headlight issue with denny6006. Every step in the instructions is correct if your not working on a vn750.

Yes the brown wire is eliminated from the scenario. However what is missing is the lead coming from any of your stator leads that goes to the junction box. That's right, it's an AC current going into your junction box. (Don't freek out, it's like this now!) You don't see this split in factory harness as it happens behind the scene.

Eliminating the factory harness eliminates the trigger for the head light.
The stator activates the relay for the head light. Hence the stator lead to the junction box.

Fix. Simply install everything as your instructions say to.

1. Stator to the rectifier.
2. Rectifier to the battery.

Super simple, super efficient. I'm 14v at idle. :)

The only thing you have to do in addition is run a lead from the stator connection at the R&R (Any ONE of the three) & route it to the YELLOW wire in the junction box. (It's all yellow, No Stripes)
This yellow wire is the lead from the original wire harness that triggers the head light relay.

Cut it, solder your connection from your new lead & Voila! Your head light will work as always.

Yes, you could essentially use your original harness. But why use kawi's old skinny wiring? What's the point of an upgrade if your not going to do it right. :)
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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7,960 Posts
Sounds like a simple easy fix Kanuck.
I better save it to "favorites" now so I can find it when I need it!
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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5,236 Posts
Hey all. There's been some discrepancy lately what to do when installing your new Mosfet R&R. I've been discussing the headlight issue with denny6006. Every step in the instructions is correct if your not working on a vn750.

Yes the brown wire eliminated from the scenario. However what is missing is the lead coming from any of your stator leads that goes to the junction box. That's right, it's an AC current going into your junction box. (Don't freek out, it's like this now!) You don't see this split in factory harness as it happens behind the scene.

Eliminating the factory harness eliminates the trigger for the head light.
The stator activates the relay for the head light. Hence the stator lead to the junction box.

Fix. Simply install everything as your instructions say to.

1. Stator to the rectifier.
2. Rectifier to the battery.

Super simple, super efficient. I'm 14v at idle. :)

The only thing you have to do in addition is run a lead from the stator connection at the R&R (Any ONE of the three) & route it to the YELLOW wire in the junction box. (It's all yellow, No Stripes)
This yellow wire is the lead from the original wire harness that triggers the head light relay.

Cut it, solder your connection from your new lead & Voila! Your head light will work as always.

Yes, you could essentially use your original harness. But why use kawi's only skinny wiring. What's the point of an upgrade if your not going to do it right. :)
"Live long and Prosper",Jason and to mix my quotes,"The Force is Strong with this one".Glad to help,I'll call you soon,I got the Vmail late last night
 
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