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Discussion Starter #1
I'm going to put Progressive fork springs on my Vulcan but not sure if I want to use the lowering springs or the other springs I'm kinda stuck between the two and hoping others will chime in on what they've liked and yes I know it's all what I'll like but not sure which one handles better. I've got her tore down at the moment doing lots of work it her and won't be done until early next year and want the best handling Vulcan I can have. I'm putting 412 12" rear shocks on to lower the back some but not to much and not sure if I want to lower the front any just want her to handle better and to handle bumps better. I'll be riding country roads that aren't the best and my wife and I both have screwed up backs so I'm looking more for a comfy ride. I'm only lowering the back slightly since both my knees have had surgeries on them and it's a little to high for me right now so that's why I'm looking at 12" rear 412's and not 12.5" 412's. this forums is the best Ive seen for our bikes it's helped me out greatly already and can't wait to get my bike done. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
 

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Prowling Tiger
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I put Progressive 412's on mine which dropped the bike 2.25 inches. DO NOT PUT THE SPRING PRELOAD ON HIGHEST SETTING! Holy cow I felt like a milk shake, LOL! I've got it on 2nd lowest setting and it's better, but still rather bumpy with only me on it. Hadn't tried with a passenger yet.

As for handling, you'll want to drop the front as much as the rear. If you drop 1/2 inch rear then drop 1/2 inch front. If the rear sits too low compared to the front, the bike will turn like a dog during slow maneuvers. My bike suffers from this a bit, but I like the slanted stance it has so it doesn't both me any.
 

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If you only lowered the rear a 1/2 inch, use the regular springs in front and just move the fork tubes up 1/2 inch in the clamps.....if you want.

I'd likely just leave them alone really...why lose more cornering clearance? A half inch lower in the back ain't nutt'n. I do suggest using the Progressive springs and cutting the spacers to 7-1/4"....and 10 or 15w fork oil.


You didn't say what you weighed of if your wife rides as a passenger...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Our total weight is about 400 right now but we've been losing weight pretty steady. I'm not sure how much the 12" progressive shocks will actually drop the rear end I figured not to much but I'm not to sure since I haven't seen a VN750 in person with dropped shocks on it yet so it's hard for me to tell. I'm not gonna go with any shorter shocks since I weigh over 250 pounds by myself. We do a lot of 2 up riding otherwise I'd go with 11" shocks lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Now since the stock shocks are 12.5" how much would 12" progressive 412's drop the rear just 1/2" or more? I'm trying to get as much info as I can and searching the web hasn't answered all my questions yet so that's why I'm turning to the guru's on here.
 

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Now since the stock shocks are 12.5" how much would 12" progressive 412's drop the rear just 1/2" or more? I'm trying to get as much info as I can and searching the web hasn't answered all my questions yet so that's why I'm turning to the guru's on here.
If they are 1/2" shorter then the rear would be 1/2 inch lower....given the spring rates are the same. Keep in mind you should set the preload on the shock so the rear of the bike goes down 1/2 inch when you sit on it. You should add more preload so that figure is the same when your wife gets on....

This in mind...if you only want the bike to be 1/2 lower than stock, you should first measure how much the stock shock is compressing when you sit on the bike now. If its more than a half inch you might just need to alter your shopping list.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I'd really like to drop it more but not sure how much just yet I'm going to have to get my helper over to determine how much it drops with me on it and then with my wife on it then I'll be able to figure out how much I can really drop it then. I'd like to go with 11" rear shocks and front lowering springs but don't want to bottom out that's what I'm trying to avoid. I didn't know the stock shocks and the progressive shocks have the same spring rate.
 

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..... I didn't know the stock shocks and the progressive shocks have the same spring rate.
I didn't say that they are....I meant a 1 /2" shorter shock lowers the rear about 1/2" IF the spring rates are the same.

Stock springs can sag a bit after time, and they have no preload adjustment.

Progressive 412 shocks do have a preload adjustment, so how much they compress is changeable.

As I said, ideally the rear should sink about a half inch when you sit on the bike. As the 412's allow you to adjust this, and the stock units don't, this is why you need to do a bit if measuring to make sure what you're buying will give you what you want.

Generally, lowering the bike any amount reduces ground clearance in turns. Shorter shocks usually have less travel, so comfort may not be as good.

I always suggest lowering the seat before lowering the bike. If all you're after is getting your feet on the ground this much better than changing the height of the bike itself....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well I'm 5'8 and I touch the ground just fine my biggest issue is my back and my knees Ive had 2 left knee surgeries and getting ready for a right knee surgery and my back is all screwed up that's why I'm not going to get my bike ready to ride this year I'm waiting for surgery which sucks but it needs to be done. Swinging my leg over the bike is getting harder that's the biggest reason why I want to lower it but I also like the way this Vulcans look so I'd hate to sell it these are great bikes. I'll be doing the measurements here in the next few days so then I'll know which way to go. Thanks for the help Knifemaker it helped greatly.
 

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Prowling Tiger
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I didn't say that they are....I meant a 1 /2" shorter shock lowers the rear about 1/2" IF the spring rates are the same.

Stock springs can sag a bit after time, and they have no preload adjustment.

Progressive 412 shocks do have a preload adjustment, so how much they compress is changeable.

As I said, ideally the rear should sink about a half inch when you sit on the bike. As the 412's allow you to adjust this, and the stock units don't, this is why you need to do a bit if measuring to make sure what you're buying will give you what you want.

Generally, lowering the bike any amount reduces ground clearance in turns. Shorter shocks usually have less travel, so comfort may not be as good.

I always suggest lowering the seat before lowering the bike. If all you're after is getting your feet on the ground this much better than changing the height of the bike itself....
Doesn't the damper adjuster do the same thing as a pre-load adjuster?
 

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Doesn't the damper adjuster do the same thing as a pre-load adjuster?
No. It only changes dampening - the speed in which the shock can compress or rebound. The settings on the stock shock only effect compression dampening. (Or so we are told)

Pre-loading the spring alters the amount of weight it takes to compress it further. You could however argue that pumping more air in the shock will do this, but technically you have not changed the springs rate.


I should mention that having a 31 inch inseam myself I always used the "equestrian mount" and never had a problem getting on or off the bike.

To do this, you stand on the left side of the bike while its on the side stand, facing the gas tank,turn the bars full to the right. Hold the right grip with your right hand, applying the front brake. Put your left foot on the left peg,left hand on left grip or top of gas tank.. and stand up on the left peg so your leg is straight. Your right leg just dangling in the air next to it...Simply raise your right knee towards your chest until your foot clears the top of the seat and swing your body towards the front of the bike (pulling with your right arm) and sit down as soon as your ass moves over the seat.....after finding the right peg with your right foot.

This takes more time to explain than do. To dismount, put the bike on the side stand and just reverse the move.

Practice a few times and you'll find the best way to move your right leg over the seat.
Using this method, it makes lowering the bike pointless, as the foot peg is the same distance from the seat no matter how low (or high) the suspension is set....
 

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Discussion Starter #12
growing up I had to do that type of mounting and unmounting since my dirt bike was to tall it works though. Maybe I'll go back to that way of getting on and off I'll have to try it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Hey Blazblu82 Sanco still sells the coasters go to sancospecialties google search and order from that website there nice coasters those are the ones I'm using and they polished up nicely.
 

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If you're looking to lower the bike to make it easier to mount I don't think the 1/2" difference will help too much, although i'm sure every little bit will help. The biggest change you could make is to modify the seat and get rid of the sissy bar/back rest. Never really realized how awkward it was to mount the bike until I removed the seat. HUGE difference.

I see you ride two up though, so guess you'll have to see how comfortable she'll be with that idea.
 

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Prowling Tiger
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Hey Blazblu82 Sanco still sells the coasters go to sancospecialties google search and order from that website there nice coasters those are the ones I'm using and they polished up nicely.
Eh, I'm fine with my modified reed housing. Only cost me whatever it was for the 2 1/2 inch copper caps. I already had black engine enamel and make-a-gasket stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If you're looking to lower the bike to make it easier to mount I don't think the 1/2" difference will help too much, although i'm sure every little bit will help. The biggest change you could make is to modify the seat and get rid of the sissy bar/back rest. Never really realized how awkward it was to mount the bike until I removed the seat. HUGE difference.

I see you ride two up though, so guess you'll have to see how comfortable she'll be with that idea.
Yea I've tossed the idea around with her at getting a different seat and getting rid of the backrest but her response was ok go for it while your at it make it a solo LOL she has a bad back as well and really loves the extended backrest and I hate it LOL so she wins but I'm still planning on getting a different seat from another vulcan though. I've though about throwing on 11" or 11.5" progressive shocks but I'm worried about bottoming out on the tire since my weight it still 260ish but I'm losing it fast so it really depends on the time I get ready to buy the shocks to see how much I still weigh. So far I've lost 19 pounds in 2 months so its coming off fast my goal is 200-215 is were I always feel good so that's my goal by Christmas. But a new seat is in order that's on my long long list of parts for my bike I'm spending $100 per month of parts so it's going to be a slow road to getting my bike done but it's going good.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Im leaning toward a vn800 or vn900 or even a meanstreak seat for mine just not sure yet. I also though about buying another vn750 seat and take it apart and put in memory foam and cut the back part off so its square in back. Once I get my garage built I'll probably take my bike all apart and powder coat everything I love the blackout look. I'm planning on buying a old oven and my own powder coating guns to have fun with making my own stuff.
 
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