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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am the proud owner of a 1986 VN750. Have only had it home running for a month or so. The engine crapped out on me and I had to replace it. It now runs but has a small issue that is worring to me. I have gone on a couple of small out of town rides and on both the bike would suddenly loose power and stall. I let it sit for a few minutes and re-start and it will run fine from then on. This does not happen often but it is kinda worrisome and I have stopped rideing to work due to this problem. It quite twice on one trip to work.

I have heard that the gas tank vent might be clogged but not sure where that is or what is a good fix for this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Also does anyone have leaking fork seal help. Had mine rebuilt about 5 months ago and are once again leaking like mad. Guess I need to find a mechanic who actually knows how to work on bikes.

Picky ain't I! :p

Fred
_________________________

Black and Red VN 750
Mustang Seat and saddle bags
Plexi-Windshield
 

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sounds like a job for SEA FOAM :D get it at your local auto store and puts some in ur tank
 

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Search Goddess
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It might also be your ignition switch cutting out on you. Sometimes jiggling the key will get it started.

From the VN750 yahoo group Files..
REBUILDING THE IGNITION SWITCH ON A VN750

REASON:

My 1991 Vn750 developed a "dead spot" in the ignition switch
which would cause the dash lights to flicker or go out completely.
For two years I lived with this problem and temporarily solved
it each time it would occur by slightly turning the key towards
the off position. It worsened to the point where the defective switch
would cause the bike to begin stalling - something had to be done. A
new switch is about 70 bucks, plus I didn't want to have to
deal with having to re-key my bike.

TOOLS REQ'D:

10mm socket/drive or nut driver
13mm wrench
12mm wrench
#2 phillips screwdriver
medium sized jewelers scredriver
6mm Hex driver/hex key/allen wrench
contact cleaner
small needle nosed pliers


PROCEDURE:

1. Remove the windshield (if applicable).

2. Remove the headlight.

2a. Remove the 2 phillips head screws that hold the front portion
of the headlight to the bucket - the screws are located about 4 o'clock
and 8 o'clock (be sure not to mess with the adjusting screw located
around 8:30).

2b. Remove the headlight lens and trim ring from the bucket - pull
the bottom free which should allow you to "un-clip" the top portion.
Disconnect the three prong connector from the lightbulb and place
the lens assembly somewhere safe.

3b. Using the 12mm wrench on the nuts on the insides of the bucket,
remove the 10mm hex headed bots that secure the bucket to the ears.
Carefully allow the bucket to hang down from the wires.

3. Remove the instrument cluster/gages.

3a. Remove the 2 bolts (1 on either side) of the "lights cluster".

3b. carefully remove the gauges and cluster
(allow to dangle from the wires).

3c. Remove the black rubber boot from around the outside of the
ignition switch post.

4. Remove the switch assembly - there are two socket
head cap screws under the top fork clamp - after removing the
bolts you should be able to "fanagle" the switch out of the fork
clamp.

4a. ***UPDATE***
It has been brought to my attention that if the handlebars are turned to the full left position, it is much easier to remove the switch without "fanagling".

5. Remove the two brass colored phillips screws from the plastic
body of the switch. Separate the electric switch portion from
the mechanical portion.

6. Carefully snap the plastic cover off the back of the switch -
check each of the solders carefully to make sure none have broken free.

7. While holding the switch "circuit board side up" carefully pry the
plasic body away from the circuit board where the little tang locks the
two pieces together - CAREFUL! - AS YOU SEPARATE THE TWO PIECES BE
CERTAIN NOT TO TURN OVER THE SWITCH PORTION, THERE ARE SEVERAL SMALL
PIECES THAT COULD FALL OUT!!!

8. Take the switch portion (should now be free from the bike) to a
suitable location to work on it (ie. workbench).

9. One at a time, remove the contacts from the switch and slightly
stretch the compression spring open a little bit.

10. Use contact cleaner to clean each of the contact points as well
as the contact paths (on the circuit board).

REASSEMBLY:

1. Do everything you just did in the reverse order.

Hope this helps someone - kent4chaos


in regards to the fork seals, Are your fork tubes pitted and corroded? These can wear down the fork seals if they are.
 

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Not real familiar with Vulcans, other then working on a friend's recently. Kickstand switches tend to go out on Vulcans as they do on Yamahas? I ride along nicely then KaPut, stalled and coasting to the side on I-75 in Atlanta. Took the dang side stand switch off and have not had a problem since.
Could it be a overheating problem that causes the stall? Checked your radiator cap or the termostat to see if it is working properly?

Oh, and LeakProof fork seals are NOT leak proof. As long as you put them in right side up, should be fine unless there is a deep enough scratch in the uppper fork tube where it goes down past the seal. Maybe you put too much fork oil in there, or too much air. Or too heavy of a fork oil and you bottom out the front suspension to often when stopping, not allowing the heavier oil to pass through the dampening rods fast enough.

Open up the gas tank once in a while when riding. If it makes a phissssss sound, then either your vent hose is clogged or pinched, but I doubt that would be your problem. More likely something mentioned in eariler.
 
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