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Texas Rider
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31 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just got a new battery (YB14L-A2 12 volt ) in March, I usually ride a lot to work almost daily, Since having the new battery I've had to drain some fluid out to make the levels right two times. I don't know if the heat in Texas is causing the fluid inside to expand and go above the high mark.

I was giving the battery another chance,rode every day last week no prob. and today had to get a jump to get home from work. I never had trouble with the last battery up until I got this new one. Could it be something besides the battery?

I was trying to avoid a trip to the dealer... and wonder if another option is to get the battery checked at Auto Zone or somewhere.

Any thoughts? Please help, thanks!
 

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Old Truck Junkie
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4,133 Posts
Your r/r may be bad. It may be over charging cousing the batt to boil over. Check charging system. If high 14's volts and above. I would replace r/r.
 

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Concert connoisseur
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2,231 Posts
and if that is not a maintenance free battery I would return it or exchange it for one if possible
 

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Love My Baby
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1,165 Posts
HOLD ON! Way too early to replace R/R. I have a perfect battery that's 14.5 VDC when running at 3000 RPM. More likely your new battery is defective.

i don't think Autozone will load test motorcycle batteries. I tried them and Discount Auto Parts once, and neither would. But they can check the battery and tell you if a cell is dead or something. I would be cautious using that battery if it looks like it's swelling. Could be your vent tube is blocked/kinked or the outlet to the vent tube is blocked by a plastic chad or something (remember "chads" from the Florida presidential election!). Without hessitation I would say try to return the battery and buy a glass mat maintenance free battery. You will be much happier and safer with it.

You can check your R/R and stator by following the instructions in prior posts here on this forum.
 

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Premium Member
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4,778 Posts
I'm having a problem envisioning a scenario where she has had to remove fluid from the battery to correct the levels. And not once, but twice. Yes, overcharging could cause fluid to boil out, but once the bike has sat for any length of time, the fluid level should be BELOW where it started out, not higher. Maybe I'm missing something?
 

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Texas Rider
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31 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for all the advice, I am trying to get a refund and new maintenance free battery from the place I ordered. I think after work I'll go buy a volt meter and testing the wires. I am hoping it's nothing but the battery :)

The bike sat for a few years before I bought it but I've had the carb rebuilt, clutch cable adjusted, real wheel oil repacked and everything has run smooth with some help from Sea Foam (sometimes the bike hesitates a little without the sea foam...) Other than that it runs strong until this battery issue which started with the new battery! Not sure when the last battery was put in but had no problem with that battery since Jan 08 when purchased.

Thanks Again, I love this website and all the helpful riders!!
 

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Premium Member
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4,778 Posts
Were the rear splines on the driveshaft lubed? Lot of bikes came off the line with absolutely no moly grease.
 

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Premium Member
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4,054 Posts
Melissa, I have an older MF battery that I took out of my bike a few months ago just because it was three years old, but was still working. I'd be glad to give it to you to try. Let me know and I'll put it on the tender. It still holds a charge, but I wouldn't depend on it long term, just because of its age. Let me know!
 

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Texas Rider
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31 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Fergy, Thanks for the offer on the battery! I just got confirmation they are going to give me a refund to go towards a better maint. free replacement and ship it today!!
I'm happy with that and if down the road there is trouble, I'll worry about the r/r :)

Flitecontrol, My driveshaft did have grease, it was leaking everywhere which the dealer said happens, but since the bike was older I wanted to be sure I knew there was grease in there, so just had it repacked so I can monitor it. Since then, it hasn't leaked.

Next thing I want to do is have the front forks resealed and lowered in the process, but don't want to pay for that yet :) they aren't sticking or anything but there is a little rust and I hear the Progressives are a nice improvement!

I'm loving learning about bikes, my current project is putting a slip-on muffler on my Suzuki 650 ;) both bikes are out of commission this week I guess :(
 

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Texas Rider
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31 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
One thing I think is weird, the green neutral light came on when I turned the key but the bike kept trying to start with no luck, it wouldn't turn over. After charging the battery I always got it to start which is why I think it was the battery not having enough charge...
Is that possible?

I am receiving the new maint free battery Friday and I don't want to kill this one because of a bike issue and not a battery issue because they won't refund a second time!
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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7,960 Posts
Were the rear splines on the driveshaft lubed? Lot of bikes came off the line with absolutely no moly grease.
Flitecontrol, My driveshaft did have grease, it was leaking everywhere which the dealer said happens, but since the bike was older I wanted to be sure I knew there was grease in there, so just had it repacked so I can monitor it. Since then, it hasn't leaked.

:(
Hi melissaholt1. I`m just clarifying something here for myself. Was it the rear spline grease that was leaking everywhere, or was it the final drive hypoid gear oil? I have read of several cases where the spline grease was dried up or nonexistant when checked and serviced, but don`t recall anyone mentioning before about it leaking out. If it was gear oil, it would have a sulfurous, rotten egg smell, I think.

Now, about the battery. If you want to eliminate the battery as the cause of your non starting issue, try boosting from a car battery.
I made a set of motorcycle specific booster cables that weigh about a pound, and roll up small enough to fit in my jacket pocket, or take very little space in saddlebags. It is very simple, quick and inexpensive, if you want to make a set yourself, to carry for an emergency.

I just used an 8 or 10 foot length of 16 gauge lamp cord from a bulk roll at a hardware store.
Two sets of 3" battery charger clamps, and 4 pieces of heat shrink tubing about 4" long, to strengthen and seal each connection of wire to clamp.
It only took 30-40 minutes for me to make, and cost less than $10. If you have any other questions about assembling it, just ask. I`ll be happy to help any way I can.
 

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Calif Rider
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725 Posts
I would still look into a volt meter to completely check the charging system out, if this problem still persist. Also I am sure you have read that most would agree that a volt meter should be installed so you can constantly be able to keep an eye on the system. The meter will quickly show if something is going amiss.
 

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Premium Member
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4,054 Posts
Ol Hoss, the reason I suggested her using my used but still good battery is because you can get some false readings when checking your electrical system when you have a faulty battery installed. The jumper cables are a good idea to have on you though. In this case, I'd be glad to help Melissa check this out. I have a volt meter and the battery so I'd be glad to help figure out what's up. Let me know if I can help!
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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7,960 Posts
You`re right about a faulty battery, fergy. Good thing we have each other to catch things we forget.

Take him up on the offer mellissa, it`s always good to have a second opinion of what`s going on with the electrical system.
 

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Benjammin'
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421 Posts
Melissa,
Another thing to give a quick check to is the ground wires connected to the frame. Sometimes, corrosion will build up on the frame and isolate the ground. Follow the ground wire from the battery to the frame, disconnect it and use sandpaper to clean both surfaces. Then put dielectric grease on it to help it stay clean. There is one more ground connection from the frame to the motor that also needs the same treatment. I had similar low battery issues on my bike that ended up being ground connections- the ones NOT connected at the battery terminal.

Good luck!
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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7,960 Posts
Flitecontrol, My driveshaft did have grease, it was leaking everywhere which the dealer said happens, but since the bike was older I wanted to be sure I knew there was grease in there, so just had it repacked so I can monitor it. Since then, it hasn't leaked.(
This link is what was going on with the leaking grease... I wasn't quite sure in terms of parts, but I guess it was the grease leaking from the Final Drive and looked like the pic in the link below...

http://images.google.com/imgres?img...drive&hl=en&sa=G&um=1&ei=fec4SonEB5HGM56o6YYN
Thanks for the pics Melissa. The grease slinging out on the wheel makes more sense now. The dry splines we all have to watch out for are on the driveshaft (or "propeller" shaft as it is labeled in the pics) coupling that slips onto the pinion gear splines at the front of the final drive unit. It was the splines connecting the wheel hub to the ring gear splines on the rear of the final drive, where the grease was leaking from. It appears that on his bike, there was just too much grease applied the last time it was seviced.

I hope you have one bike or the other up and running for this weekend.:rockon:
 

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Premium Member
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4,778 Posts
It was the splines connecting the wheel hub to the ring gear splines on the rear of the final drive, where the grease was leaking from. It appears that on his bike, there was just too much grease applied the last time it was seviced.
And, they might have used regular grease. Moly should not thin out with exposure to heat or water.
 

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Texas Rider
Joined
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31 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Update! New battery seems to be working out fine so far. Glad to be back on the road, thanks again for everyone's assistance...

Melissa
 
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