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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I don't know if anyone else has done this, or would want to, but here is a pic of the polished lower forks on my bike. View attachment 1556
This was done by sanding with 400grit and then 1000grit and polishing with Mothers. Ofcourse the left has been polished and the right hasn't. The pic doesn' do it justice.

Thanks
CapHAB
 

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Very very nice looks like its worth the effort. Good job
 

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i,d like to do mine, it looks to take some time & lots of elbow grease to get the clear off. i wonder if steel wool would work?
 

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Find CapHAB`s fork tube polishing photo album

Welcome to the forum. That polishing job looks good. Did you wax it too?

Edit Feb 19, 2012. Photo attachment doesn`t work for me now.
To see pictures click on CapHABs avatar to go to his profile. Then click on his Polish fork tubes album.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the comments.
As far as the process goes:
I only used 400grit and 1000grit sandpaper and mothers polish. I did the left side with the tire on. but I will remove the tire for the right side.You have to be careful around the fender with the sanding. I sanded in only up and down motions, polishing after each sanding of the lower fork (slider). I sanded with 400 then polished, sanded with 1000 then polised ect, ect untill I got it where I wanted it. Took about 6 hrs. Of corse that was working and taking breaks. I would estimate 3 hrs of working time.

Hope this answers some questions

Cap HAB (Harold)
 

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if you have some money to spend hit sears and you can get a rotary sander/polisher.... just make sure you dont stay in one place too long..... it should cut down work to like an hour for both...
 

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great timing for this thread, i was just getting around to my lower forks also. i bought some stuff called 'flitz' that is a paste; there is always somebody demonstrating at car shows this stuff for polishing just about any kind of metal. anybody used this stuff before? i'm a little hesitant to try it in case it does something that is not good or reversible.
 

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i have used flitz before on a number of things , it took the rust off of my gun barrel and didnt harm the finnish . it says its ok to use on everything from paint to plastic, dont knoe if i would use it on paint , but it works good on metal , alum, and does a great job on making crome shine . i was cleaning up my bike sunday and used some on some of the crome, was thinking of polishing the fork tubes and rims but didnt have any sandpaper fine enough to do the first part of the job . better left for another day .

its not a cure all , but it seems to work good .
hope it helps you if u decide to use it .
 

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Damnit, now I have another project to start on. project = less riding
 

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I had that weather this weekend. Its supposed to in the 50's all week here. Heat wave
 

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Thanks for the comments.
As far as the process goes:
I only used 400grit and 1000grit sandpaper and mothers polish. I did the left side with the tire on. but I will remove the tire for the right side.You have to be careful around the fender with the sanding. I sanded in only up and down motions, polishing after each sanding of the lower fork (slider). I sanded with 400 then polished, sanded with 1000 then polised ect, ect untill I got it where I wanted it. Took about 6 hrs. Of corse that was working and taking breaks. I would estimate 3 hrs of working time.

Hope this answers some questions

Cap HAB (Harold)

thanks!!!
Welcome to the group
 

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:worthless
I know you had one, I just want more. I always want pictures.
Seriously though I would like to see some progressional pics from when you were doing it, thats all.
Do you think that wet sanding would work too, or does the mothers polish help like wet sanding would?
Then someone asked about sealing it with up. did you or are you going to?
Or is that what the mothers polish for?

Im just full of questions aint I?
 

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I actually polished quite a few things on my bike with the 1000 grit and Mothers polish,if you own a dremel or an air die grinder you can get the small polishing wheels and use it to buff out the aluminum after you apply the polish and one of those little black and decker sanders called the mouse is great for cutting down the sanding time,if you polish those aluminum parts out to that mirror finish and want them to stay that way you can use Krylon Crystal Clear Enamel in the rattle can and they look good along time,just don't use it on high heat applications ,but brackets fork sliders and and other non heated parts look great cleared ,Wash the parts down with brakleen to get the polish off before clearing it, will still shine and the clear will adhere much better,Denny
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'm a captain on boats and we have a lot of polished aluminum. It seems to hold up just fine in the weather, as long as you keep it polished (deckhand work). So I see no reason to seal it. As we all know the 750 has a lot of polished surfaces anyway, so just keep everything shining and all should be good. But just for everyone's peace of mind, the mothers does act like a sealer. I use it on my cars and boats as well. As for more pics, I'll try to get some when I do the other side.
 

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o captain my captain.... looking good man.... and thanks to you i have more work to do on my fiancees mike...... she likes the polished look over the blacked out look.... keep it going and hopefully yo get to ride her soon...
 

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Looks good, lots of work.

For $29 you can get a bench buffer from Harbor Freight and cut your time down to about 1.5 hours and end up with a mirror finish that will last if you keep it waxed.

DT
 

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then you would have to take the forks off the bike. A drill attachment buffer would work with the fender and the wheel off. and the forks on the bike. then you could do the trees too.
 
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