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So...whats up with them? One of the front plug wires has come out of the boot, and it looks like its been cut, and just shoved onto the little screw inside, but it doesnt seem to be firing. I guess if I were to change the wires Id have to buy the coil as well as they're both one part? I went to the dealer, and thats what the dude said, anyway, where as a different shop said they could get me some wires for it, but in my experience what they say they can get never ends up being what I need. I think what Im going to try and do is just strip the wire, and wrap it around the screw. Think that'll help?
 

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Your dealer is an idiot, never take your bike there to get fixed....or buy parts.

Many here have replaced their spark plug wires .....perhaps someone that has will chime in soon and tell you what you need and where to get it. (Napa auto parts rings a bell on this )

Do not just wrap the wire around the thing, get the right parts. Plug wires need to have proper insulation.

KM
 

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Pretty much any 7MM plug wire will work. They work without any modifications to the wires. You can cut them to any length you want to route them any way you want to.
There is a rubber clamp inside of the coil that slides over the wire and holds it in place under the cap. The wires screw into the plug boots.
I used a set of Accel 8MM wires on mine, but it took a little modifying to get them to work on the coils.
I started by putting the wires in the plug boots so I could get the angle on them I wanted, them put them into the coils.
Most any auto parts stores sells bulk wire or buy a set for a 4 cylinder car and cut the ends off.
Just try not to buy cheap wires as they won't last very long.
 

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Our plug ends have a resistor in them, that is why they are built the way they are. That is probally why they are not working. you can get aftermarket on ebay, or just throw some accel coils on like I did.
 

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this is my coil set up
 

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Here are the NKG boots, you need two of each, and the dennis kirk part#'s
7mm wire works fine without modifying anything. Wires are easily replaced without a new coil. Basically the boot just 'screws' on to the end of the wire.

NGK XD05F Spark Plug Cap (Part# 20306)

NGK LDO5FP Spark Plug Cap (Part# 20789)
 

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Here are the NKG boots, you need two of each, and the dennis kirk part#'s
7mm wire works fine without modifying anything. Wires are easily replaced without a new coil. Basically the boot just 'screws' on to the end of the wire.

NGK XD05F Spark Plug Cap (Part# 20306)

NGK LDO5FP Spark Plug Cap (Part# 20789)
If you don`t need new wires just follow dariv`s directions for new caps.

If you need new wires the link to the Vulcan Verses has the wire lengths you need, etc.
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1162

Quote from link:
Spark Plug Wires and Ends For the VN700/750:

You should consider buying NGK plug ends if you haven't already. They are great looking and my directions are based on using them.
Dennis Kirk: or 1-800-328-9280

2 Part# 20306 - XD05F Spark Plug Cap $3.30 a piece.
2 Part# 20789 - NGK Spark Plug Cap/LD05FP $4.80 a piece.

Grab yourself a roll of 8 mm non-resistor type wire from your local auto parts store or speed shop. They may have to special order it. Even a 50 foot roll costs less than the Kawasaki replacement option. I chose bright yellow... Looks good on my black and red bike IMHO.

Here are the wire lengths you will need:

2 x 11.5" long 1 x 14.5" long
1 x 20.0" long

Measure your old wires to make sure it'll work. If you can get 60", you should have some to spare.


I cut my wire with a sharp scissors and stripped off the yellow insulation so that the wire slipped into the coil easily. If you can get it to slip into the coil with the yellow intact, that's even better. Take the rubber "O" looking thing along with it's plastic cap (if intact) and use them on this new wire. I had to squeeze the wire into these "O" shaped holders on the coil end with a very small screwdriver. I pushed the "O" onto the wire as far as I could (about 1/10 of an inch) and then "stuffed" the yellow insulation under the "O" thing. This "O" thing holds the wire in place along with the cap that screws onto the coil. Obviously, put the wire all the way into the coil with about 1/8th inch of room between the "O" thing and the edge of the coil. Then use the screw cap to tighten the wire down and into the coil. The plug ends "screw" onto the wire if you buy the NGK I told you about. Just make sure you have the proper parts at hand and already slid up the wire before you do this or you will have to unscrew the ends and start over. The "short" ends have a tighter rubber seal that is a pain in the tuckus. Be prepared to work that baby on by hand for a bit. Some people use dielectric grease to make it slide better... Joe in Northern, NJ - V#8013-R

"Torque is one of the most critical aspects of spark plug installation. Torque directly affects the spark plugs' ability to transfer heat out of the combustion chamber. A spark plug that is under-torqued will not be fully seated on the cylinder head, hence heat transfer will be slowed. This will tend to elevate combustion chamber temperatures to unsafe levels, and pre-ignition and detonation will usually follow. Serious engine damage is not far behind. An over-torqued spark plug can suffer from severe stress to the Metal Shell which in turn can distort the spark plug's inner gas seals or even cause a hairline fracture to the spark plug's insulator...in either case, heat transfer can again be slowed and the above mentioned conditions can occur."
My manual says 12 ft-lbs for the plugs, in case anyone else needs to know. That's 144 inch/lbs for those that have an inch/lb torque wrench.
FWIW, I happened to have the owner's manual out it shows the torque to be 10 ft-lbs for the plugs.

OK, I checked and you are right. My Kawasaki Factory Service Manual says 12, my owner's manual says 10, and my Clymer manual says 8.5. What's a Vulcanero to do?
 

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I guess I should have clarified in my first post. I used the stock parts from the original plug wires. All I did was replace the wires with the Accel 8MM wires, and I re-used the plug caps and coil caps.
 

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Plug Caps

What if your plug caps are bad too? where do you go to replace those? eBay's got nothing so far... I have a 92 750... do I have to go to the dealer?
 

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What if your plug caps are bad too? where do you go to replace those? eBay's got nothing so far... I have a 92 750... do I have to go to the dealer?
Copy & Pasted Individual posts from the verses…
All 750 Spark Plugs = 12 mm threads – use 16mm thin wall socket – Book Spec: torque to 13” lbs
Torqueing, depending on if you use the suggested "Anti-Seize" your value may vary. I religiously do and go with 12 ft-lbs (144 in-lbs). Installing plug dry and torqueing, I'd probably go with a slightly lesser torque (10 ft-lbs ? ) (Steel Plug threads –torqued into Aluminum Heads).
Plug Wires: Dennis Kirk has 7mm wire for $2.99 in a 72" length the part # is 20- 21.
Ad two NGK end caps part # 20-306 $3.30 each and two end caps part # 20- 789 $2.40 each.

(approx.. 60”) Spark Plug Wire Replacement:
2 x 11.5" long
1 x 14.5" long
1 x 20.0" long
You should consider buying NGK plug ends if you haven't already. They are great looking and my directions are based on using them.
Oct. 2012: . . Dennis Kirk: [email protected] or 1-800-328-9280
2 - Part# 20306 – NGK Spark Plug Cap XD05F $3.30 a piece.
2 - Part# 20789 - NGK Spark Plug Cap LD05FP $2.40 a piece.
******** All NGK caps are made for Stock 7 mm wire. *********

Note: BikeBandit & others also carry the NGK caps.
Make sure you use copper core wire and not carbon core. 7mm is stock size, you can use 8mm but is
harder to install with little to no gain.
2- LD05FP and 2- XD05F are what NGK suggest to use on our VN750 bikes. :
**********************************************************************************
The DPR7IX-9 advantage: The advantage is (they claim) "Longer life, lower fuel consumption, smoother running, Improved ignition efficiency-giving enhanced power and acceleration" The part that matters really is the "improved ignition efficiency" as iridium can "spark hotter" at a lower voltage. Given our feeble electrical system, anything that uses less power is good. The part number is 7803 at Advanced Auto. The plug is the DPR7EIX-9.
Worn plugs cause hard starting My spark plugs had about 13,000 miles on them and I was beginning to experience multiple tries to get the engine started, hot or cold. Figured it was time for new plugs. On Mike O's recommendation I installed new iridium spark plugs, anti-seize on the threads (steel plug into Aluminum cylinder head), and torqued to 144 inch lbs (12 ft pounds). Now starts first time every time, hot or cold. Barely have to touch the start button. Thanks Mike, they really work. NGK DPR7EIX-9. About $10.00 each, (or less) but I think they will be worth it. The bike will probably fall apart before I have to change them again. Dennis in Maryland.

I had the same experience with these last year, Dennis. Now I just have to barely breathe on the start button and she starts right up. I figured they're well worth the slight extra cost. A lot of us spend way more than that on cosmetic upgrades and shiny chrome bits. I bought mine at Shade Tree for about $8 ea. They should last longer, and I since I also keep detailed track of my gas mileage all the time, I also noticed an average increase of about 2 MPG after installing them. See if you notice the same thing.... -Tim S.
From what you're typing here, it seems like it's the battery. The best possible thing you can do for your motorcycle's starting issues is to get an AGM maintenance free battery for it and Iridium spark plugs.
I bought my 1988 VN750 in May 2010 and rode the whole season with regular plugs and had no ignition problem whatsoever. But... after installing these iridiums 3 months ago and having finally test ridden her these past two days (N.Y. weather permitted) Wow!!! What a difference! The way she sounds; the way she accelerates; I'm lost for words to express this upgrade.
Put in some NGK Iridium DPR7EIX-9 spark plugs…..
Time and time again I read here of it's recommendation in relation to ignition problems (which I had none). I only bought them because I replaced my coils/wires/caps to NGK's and had to fix retainer leak. I had no idea of the quality it gives to riding. She runs smoother (my tach housing doesn't vibrate anymore, lol); power and acceleration like I've never known! (passing/switching lanes on the highway with confidence); and the sound?! It's hard to believe this is my bike.
These options are initially more expensive than the regular acid batteries and cheap spark plugs, but they make a world of difference, and they will last you a LOT longer than the cheaper parts, so in the long run they are actually cheaper.
Use “Seafoam” every 2 – 4 tanks of fuel, and for winter storage.
That’s probably all you will need for reliable starts.
These three change outs cure most starting problems.
It's worth every cent I spent! Ride safe.
 

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All this info and a LOT more is in the Vulcan verses. You might want to start reading that section of the forum.

There's no harm in asking, but since the info is already available in there with part numbers, specifications and all, it will save you some time the next time you have a problem or question.
 

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Here are the NKG boots, you need two of each, and the dennis kirk part#'s
7mm wire works fine without modifying anything. Wires are easily replaced without a new coil. Basically the boot just 'screws' on to the end of the wire.

NGK XD05F Spark Plug Cap (Part# 20306)

NGK LDO5FP Spark Plug Cap (Part# 20789)
exactly what i used too
 

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Just FYI....all....my dealer only charges about $4 each for the NGK plug ends...
I kept stock for my deep ones but removed the resistor....no reason to have it with resistor plugs, lol....the other ends were Ford automotive....I went with that then because I had a "blue" paint theme....trashing them out now, and swapping to reds to match my new paint....

...btw...SummitRacing sells raw wire in various lengths, diameters and colors....

NAPA has raw wire too, but they only sell black....

The wires Im running now are off a used 2009 Ford from the scrapyard...work fine....

...and I dunno if I missed the reply, but the coil ends have knurled ends that just screw off with your fingers....post the name of that dealer up, so folks will know not to go to them.....

We should start a thread on that....like a VN750 Angies List....Blacklisted dealers and distributors....bet it would save many of the new guys a good buck....and MEBBE put the scheisters outta biz....
 
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