Joined
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226 Posts
I am sick of this bike. I hate it. I fix it and suddenly something new comes up. I trying to figure out why the current problem happened. I really really need help on this. I can't stand it.
My first post on the Yahoo group:
I replaced a leaky oil seal, and a few other things. Put the bike
back together, hit the starter, and the bike started. Ran for about
2 minutes at idle. Shut the bike off. Started it up again about 5
minutes later, and ran it at idle for a while while checking the
throttle cables and making sure nothing was gushing out. After about
5 minutes, I shut the bike off, rolled it out of the garage, then
let it sit for about 15 minutes. While it was running, everything
seemed good. The tach worked, all the lights and guages worked. It
was all peachy. Battery voltage was also good. I removed the fuel
tank to check the petcock after the second run, and it took me about
15 minutes to do that.
I put the tank back on, turned the key, nuetral and oil lights came
on, and hit the starter. Nothing. I checked the kill switch, and
still nothing. I turned on the turn signal and hit the horn and
brake lights, but the did NOT operate. Basically, other than those
two oil and nuetral lights, the bike could have had the battery
removed for all it was worth. I turned the key from on to the far
right postion and hit the hazards. There was a high speed clicking
from the relay. The hazard switch would do this in the ON position
as well. The oil and nuetral lights glowed at about half brightness.
I took apart the wire connectors for the ignition switch. There are
5 wires going to a plastic plug, and two single wires with bullet
connections. I jumped the bullet connections, and the nuetral and
oil lights came on. I jumped the other connections as they would be
if the switch was on, and there was no change.
I got my voltage meter and checked wires in the plug contollig the
turn signal relay. They showed over 12 volts. The brake light wires
showed no voltage. I tried both wires to ground, and even squeezed
the brake lever and pedal to see if that would do anything. The 5th
wire was also checked and there was no voltage.
I cut the orange/green wire which runs from the ignition switch to
the turn signal relay. It runs to ground. I connected it to the
positive batt terminal and hit the turn signal switch. While the
signal switch was showing some effect, it, and the hazard switch
both produced a high speed clicking from the relay.
As one final check, I hooked up a known good battery but it also
produced the same results.
Regulator and battery have less than 100 miles on it.
Stator has less than 2,000 on it. It looked good when I changed out
the shifter oil seal. I checked for any disconnected wires and found
none.
Can anyone tell me what I should do with this thing? WHere should I
look first?
MY SECOND POST
Ok, I checked again, but found no wires that seemed to look faulty.
There really aren't a lot of wires around the fuel tank anyway.
I did find these two things:
1) I cut away some of the insulation around the wires coming off of
the start button and engine cut off switch, they all were negative.
When I took the black lead and touchd any of the three wires from
the engine cut off switch and the start switch, and put the red lead
to the positive battery terminal, the voltage was around 12.3x
volts. This was with the key OFF. When I turned the key ON, the
nuetral and oil lights came on as before, but the meter now read
0.3x volts. Does this mean that there is a short somewhere?
2) When I unplugged the brown single wire going to the ignition
switch, the nuetral and oil lights went out. I could now hit the
turn signal switch, the hazard lights, and the starter, and the
solenoids for each would buzz. Additionally, the oil and nuetral
lights would come back on, but dimmer than before. Still, it was
easy to see that they were illuminated.
ADDITIONAL INFO
There are no blown fuses.
My first post on the Yahoo group:
I replaced a leaky oil seal, and a few other things. Put the bike
back together, hit the starter, and the bike started. Ran for about
2 minutes at idle. Shut the bike off. Started it up again about 5
minutes later, and ran it at idle for a while while checking the
throttle cables and making sure nothing was gushing out. After about
5 minutes, I shut the bike off, rolled it out of the garage, then
let it sit for about 15 minutes. While it was running, everything
seemed good. The tach worked, all the lights and guages worked. It
was all peachy. Battery voltage was also good. I removed the fuel
tank to check the petcock after the second run, and it took me about
15 minutes to do that.
I put the tank back on, turned the key, nuetral and oil lights came
on, and hit the starter. Nothing. I checked the kill switch, and
still nothing. I turned on the turn signal and hit the horn and
brake lights, but the did NOT operate. Basically, other than those
two oil and nuetral lights, the bike could have had the battery
removed for all it was worth. I turned the key from on to the far
right postion and hit the hazards. There was a high speed clicking
from the relay. The hazard switch would do this in the ON position
as well. The oil and nuetral lights glowed at about half brightness.
I took apart the wire connectors for the ignition switch. There are
5 wires going to a plastic plug, and two single wires with bullet
connections. I jumped the bullet connections, and the nuetral and
oil lights came on. I jumped the other connections as they would be
if the switch was on, and there was no change.
I got my voltage meter and checked wires in the plug contollig the
turn signal relay. They showed over 12 volts. The brake light wires
showed no voltage. I tried both wires to ground, and even squeezed
the brake lever and pedal to see if that would do anything. The 5th
wire was also checked and there was no voltage.
I cut the orange/green wire which runs from the ignition switch to
the turn signal relay. It runs to ground. I connected it to the
positive batt terminal and hit the turn signal switch. While the
signal switch was showing some effect, it, and the hazard switch
both produced a high speed clicking from the relay.
As one final check, I hooked up a known good battery but it also
produced the same results.
Regulator and battery have less than 100 miles on it.
Stator has less than 2,000 on it. It looked good when I changed out
the shifter oil seal. I checked for any disconnected wires and found
none.
Can anyone tell me what I should do with this thing? WHere should I
look first?
MY SECOND POST
Ok, I checked again, but found no wires that seemed to look faulty.
There really aren't a lot of wires around the fuel tank anyway.
I did find these two things:
1) I cut away some of the insulation around the wires coming off of
the start button and engine cut off switch, they all were negative.
When I took the black lead and touchd any of the three wires from
the engine cut off switch and the start switch, and put the red lead
to the positive battery terminal, the voltage was around 12.3x
volts. This was with the key OFF. When I turned the key ON, the
nuetral and oil lights came on as before, but the meter now read
0.3x volts. Does this mean that there is a short somewhere?
2) When I unplugged the brown single wire going to the ignition
switch, the nuetral and oil lights went out. I could now hit the
turn signal switch, the hazard lights, and the starter, and the
solenoids for each would buzz. Additionally, the oil and nuetral
lights would come back on, but dimmer than before. Still, it was
easy to see that they were illuminated.
ADDITIONAL INFO
There are no blown fuses.