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Discussion Starter #1
I am installing a DanMoto SP8 gauge to replace all the vulcan stock gauges and I'm a bit lost with the wiring of it...need help! Attached is a picture of the inputs for the new gauge but I'm not sure of the correct way to attach the stock connector to it so it will work with the existing harness. I will eventually figure it out but if anyone has advice to save me time and aggravation I would really appreciate it! Some relevant information...I'm not going to be using turn signals or high beam but I want the indicators hooked up as normal incase I decide to add them back at a later date; everything is coming from a new stock wiring harness. thanks in advance!
 

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1.-G

2.-BL/R

3.-LO

4.-R/BL (note 1, below)

5.-BK/Y

6.-RD/BL

7.-BK

8.-W/Y

9.-Y/W

10.-R/BK

11.-GY

note 1: this power source is for the instrument cluster on a VN. You are going to add a number of devises (tach, fuel, temp, etc.), and you are going to subtract quite a number of instrument light bulbs. A larger, higher amperage power source should be available inside the headlight bucket. Your call.

note 2: the Hall Effect wire needs to be totally isolated from power/ground/everything AFAIK.

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks again, that will be a massive time saver! The hall sensor is plug and play and already on its own isolated loop...quick connect goes straight to the pickup sensor on the caliper (I used JB weld to put the magnet inside one of the rotor vent holes). Would you recommend taking the hot lead from the headlight or running a dedicated line straight from the start solenoid? Also with the new unit being LED and all of the old incandescent lights being removed do you think I should try it witht he red/blue first and see how she works before I go running more wires?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
instructions are barely in english! LOL Thanks again, I'll let you know how it all works out when/if I get the beast up and running to test everything.
 

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Sparky!!!
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whoa hold on a second!!!!
LOL Thanks again, I'll let you know how it all works out when/if I get the beast up and running to test everything.
you aren't even running yet and you are messing with the dash and other circuits... this isn't good. KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) by remembering this acronym, you will keep from haveing problems.
My first and biggest piece of advice is get the bike running and make sure all the electrical is working right, then work on adding your Dash. by doing this you will eliminate human error in trying to wing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Trust me I would have left everything simple if I'd had a choice....only thing on the bike that was useable were cables, rims/tires, frame, engine/tranny/final drive....everything else had already been chopped, gutted, jury-rigged, etc.... I'm basically starting from scratch and couldn't get it to run unless I rebuilt the entire electrical/signal system....sucks but thats the life when you buy a 350$ project bike... I'm planning to run it without horn, front or rear turn signals, clutch or kickstand safety so I think I can use the new wiring harness I got and just leave those parts disconnected (bypass the safety switches but the rest being unplugged shoulnt interfere with the normal operation of the bike ....but please correct me if I'm wrong)
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
there is one quick connect plug I can't find in the schematic... orange/blue, black/red, and black..... any ideas? Also I think I have a bad JB ...I have everything hooked up to test the starting circuit and nothing.....sidestand (black/yellow and green/white spliced together) and clutch switch (black/yellow and green/white spliced together) are bypassed, neutral switch is attached and bike in neutral, ignition is on with good power, solenoid works, kill switch is in on position, start button is making good contact (and I tried crossing the red/black wires to make sure it wasn't just the button)everything is plugged up except gauge cluster, and I rechecked all my grounding points and they are solidly grounded to the frame, fuses are all good, all connections have been cleaned with dry solvent and coated in DE grease....and if I jump the solenoid it turns over just fine...... ANY suggestions would be appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
One more thing, the headlight doesn't come on when the ignition is turned to "run" ...I'm thinking something in the JB isn't working right and is only powering part of the harness...any suggestions on how to test that theory or am I completely off base now? This si killing me as I have replaced every wire, switch, connector, etc...except the ignitor, R/R, and JB...I was quite crestfallen when I hooked up the new start switch and absolutely nothing happened
 

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Chucklehead
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The headlight will not come on until the JB "sees" a signal from the stator that the engine is turning/running. Hopes this takes a concern away.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
thanks, I'm used to my other bikes where the headlights come on with the ignition being turned to RUN. I'm still thinking my JB is shot because I don't even have power going into my start switch
 

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Sparky!!!
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I will look tomorrow to see which diode I used. I do remember I could hold the start button in with the mural wire grounded and the bike would run until I let of the start button. Did you fallow my diagram to threes letter minus the diodes? I ask only so I can look at the diagram and see where the problem might be.

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Right now I don't have the gauge hooked up...Im just trying to get power to the start button, something is wrong in my control circuits, or a condition isn't being satisfied somewhere ...electrical stuff cane frustrating LOL
 

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Sparky!!!
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so you used my simplified wiring diagram but kept the JB... not good, i changed how some of the circuits worked to fit the way I thought would be best for my application. The JB does screwy things with the electrical circuits and needs to be wired as per Kawasaki in order for it to work.

I suggest you make a couple of jumper wires for the solenoid for test purposes. Make one to run from the battery to one of the small posts on the solenoid, and then make another jumper to go from the remaining small terminal that you can touch to the frame. turn your ignition on, then touch the lead to the frame and see if the bike starts. This will eliminate the JB and the start button from the equation and lets us know your solenoid is in fact good.
From there, trace the start button wiring back to the JB and down to the solenoid to make sure you have power running through the circuit from point A to Point B. (Point A being the JB, and point B being the solenoid).
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I never used your simplified wiring diagram...haven't even seen one from you except how to wire up the danmoto spa gauge. The wiring that is in the bike (now anyway) is all stock except for twisting the side stand wires together to bypass that and doing the same with the clutch safety (three wires, I left the grayish one alone and twisted the green/white and black/yellow)...i even have stock handlebar controls now but no power at all coming to the start button

so far I have gotten new a main harness, battery, the danmoto gauge, ignition switch/key set, and a lot of other cosmetic/paint stuff. Used I have gotten a stock rear fender/lights, rear brake switch, stock gauge cluster, stock controls and cables/wires. The only thing I haven't done is hook up gauges, blinkers, or headlight but as far as I know that shouldn't interfere with the bike turning over
 
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