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Concert connoisseur
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2,231 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
please please please. a week and a half till the gathering and bike is not starting. put it on a charger last night at 6pm and this morning it still said 50%. got home at 7 and it said it was charged. tried to start it and got a slow crank, a little cranking and backfiring and then the dreaded clicking! battery is 2 years old tops, autozone brand and is my second one. gonna have it load tested tomorrow and cross my fingers. but not sure if I can afford a new one right away and really not sure if I wanna do another autozone one. sears or walmart? if I can swing it I dont want to wait for shipping!
 

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Senior Member
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2,502 Posts
Look for a local Interstate battery dealer, 3 years on mine and I didn't ever have it on the trickle charger over the winter. Started right up for me.
 

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Registered
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2,687 Posts
Mine's a Wal Mart AGM battery... works very well, but I've only had it for about 10 months, so I can't say it'll last longer than that one.
 

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Wareagle1970
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409 Posts
Have you checked all the wiring and cables to be sure they are snug? Also (thanks Slim) check the ground from the battery to the frame and the ground from the right side of the engine block to the engine.
 

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119 Posts
Check your grounds.
Regarding a battery, go to the local Advanced Auto and get the AGM Big Crank.
I think the part # is EXT15L. Its an outstanding battery. Expect to pay a little over $80.00
Sounds like either your grounds, your connections to your battery or the battery itself.
 

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Premium Member
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1,766 Posts
If the battery was charging at 2 Amps that whole time, it was really dead, like throw it away dead. If it was charging at 10A that whole time, it's sulfated dead, throw it away.

Before you put money into a new batttery, make sure the charging system is up to speed. A bad R/R or stator will kill a battery pretty quickly.

Jon
 

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Wareagle1970
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409 Posts
I just noticed your avatar. Aren't you a little young to be riding a motorcycle :)
 

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Bought a die hard when the original battery went out. Lasted 7 months. Thanks Sears for the 6 month warranty. So I'd definitely stay away from them. Can't even remember what brand it is, but the one I have now I got from O'Reilly's. And it was 25 bucks cheaper too.
 

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Wareagle1970
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409 Posts
Bought a die hard when the original battery went out. Lasted 7 months. Thanks Sears for the 6 month warranty. So I'd definitely stay away from them. Can't even remember what brand it is, but the one I have now I got from O'Reilly's. And it was 25 bucks cheaper too.
The one I bought from Advanced Auto has a 1 year full replacement warranty on it. No prorating.
 

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4,741 Posts
Tried jump starting it? If it works, more than likely the battery is toast.
 

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Concert connoisseur
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Discussion Starter #13
I guess my battery was 3 years old, load tested at autozone and although it was at 12 volts it tested bad under load. I was charging it at 2 amps. bought a new one from az since the last one did last 3 years and a new batter for my handheld volt meter to check things out when I put it in here in a few. I'll let you know, hopefully I'm still gathering bound!!!!!!!!
 

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Concert connoisseur
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Discussion Starter #14
damn it, my dog chewed the black wire off my meter!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
fired right up, getting some weird readings though, hope its my meter. at first I was getting 12 volts at [email protected] 3000 and 14's @ 4000. then only about 12.8 @ 4000. rode to work today with it fully charged 50 miles, it read 12.48 when I left and the same when I got there so hopefully im good. if anyone has and is good with a handheld voltmeter, please bring it to the gathering!!!!!!!!
 

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Sparky!!!
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8,696 Posts
where is your volt meter connected to?

below is a schematic using a standard 5 pole 40 AMP Automotive Relay to wire up the Volt Meter... brown wire to 85, Black wire to 86, pin 30 to Battery, and pin 87to volt meter. (pin 87a is unused)

by adding a relay into the system, you will get more accurate charging readings with out putting a stain on the battery with the engine off.

The extra brown wire and ground on the Volt Meter is used for the gauge back light if so equipped.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I took the readings with a handheld hooked directly to the battery. electrical is a serious downfall of mine. when my stator went everyone explained it to me but I still had to take it to a shop and pay them 40 bucks to diagnose it. then I brought it home and replaced the stator myself!
 

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When you replaced the stator did you replace the R/R? Some here say when the stator goes bad you should replace the R/R, I tend to agree with them. Guys here recommend a Mosfet R/R. Normaly the way this bike is designed you wont charge up the battery untill your up on the RPM's. So you would read battery voltage at idle and close to 14 VDC with the higher RPM's.
 

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Concert connoisseur
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Discussion Starter #19
When you replaced the stator did you replace the R/R? Some here say when the stator goes bad you should replace the R/R, I tend to agree with them. Guys here recommend a Mosfet R/R. Normaly the way this bike is designed you wont charge up the battery untill your up on the RPM's. So you would read battery voltage at idle and close to 14 VDC with the higher RPM's.
changed the rr then stator a week later, of course this was three seasons ago and 12,000 miles.
 

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fired right up, getting some weird readings though, hope its my meter. at first I was getting 12 volts at [email protected] 3000 and 14's @ 4000. then only about 12.8 @ 4000. rode to work today with it fully charged 50 miles, it read 12.48 when I left and the same when I got there so hopefully im good. if anyone has and is good with a handheld voltmeter, please bring it to the gathering!!!!!!!!
remind me later in the week and I'll bring mine,I suffer from CRS :doh:
 
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