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Ride First, Tinker Later!
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Pick Up Coil Mod

I searched and searched... I know I saw it before, but now I can't seem to find it again? Feeling like a noob with tail tucked between legs, I find myself forced to ask if anyone can point me in the direction of the procedure and photo's of the ignition pick up mod?

The back-story: There have been a couple of occasions where stalling when warmed up and warm re-starts have been an issue. I bought this Vulcan used 4 months ago... my first M/C ever! :) I've done a couple of minor things to it: new YUASA AGM battery, coolant change, cleaned and die-electric all electrical connections, cleaned and die-electric all battery cable ends *including at the starter solenoid, which had a lot of rust at one of the terminals, causing a consistently slow crank speed and having to push the starter button a couple of times to get past the first compression stroke*, re-wound the ACCT springs (nice, quiet valve-train now!), leaned out the mixture screws (seemed to help a bit with warm re-starts).

Still though, on a couple of occasions during low-speed riding (parking lot practice maneuvers) the engine just quit and wouldn't re-start. It cranked over fine, all other electrical systems (lights, etc.) kept working and could smell raw fuel from the pipes... which tells me that ignition spark went away. After cooling off for about 15 minutes the engine started back up, coughed out some excess fuel and then ran fine.

So, I'm thinking that bringing the pick up coils closer to the flywheel reluctor may help with this issue. I'm more than happy to hear any other suggestions, in case I've over-looked anything.

I have the pick up side-cover off already to do a preliminary inspection, found that the stator and pick-up wiring wasn't routed through their proper cavity. Instead they were just east of the 12 o'clock pointer, rubbing on the flywheel (I HATE following after someone else's work!) Thankfully the insulation was still intact, so I installed a wire tie (missing) and corrected that situation. I removed the hold down screws for the pick ups and slid them out. I did notice a little gray metal 'dust' on the pick ups, that didn't alarm me... what did shock me was discovering the remains of a steel washer stuck to the end of the bottom pick up coil (photo will post later tonight when I get home). I have no clue where it was supposed to be, or if it was even something accidentally left behind when the engine was previously worked on. The engine runs very well, and is quiet since I re-wound the ACCT springs. Perhaps someone here can identify it once I get a photo posted?

So... for now if someone could direct me to the procedure and photo's of the pick up coil mod, I would be grateful!
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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Ride First, Tinker Later!
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Excellent! Thank you, dariv and WilliamTech, for showing the way, and abyssdncr for such a great write-up! :)
 

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Premium Member
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This sounds like a float problem, not an electrical problem. Sounds like a float is sticking open.
 

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ass hole extaordinaire
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Can't hurt anything to do the mod reguardless if it is the culprit or not

As long as you do it right that is
 

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Ride First, Tinker Later!
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This sounds like a float problem, not an electrical problem. Sounds like a float is sticking open.
I am definitely not going to rule out flooding/sticking float needles, since they will definitely cause or contribute to a vapor-lock scenario.

While I don't have a heck of a lot of side-draft carburetor experience (with exception to smaller, portable engines), I can say that attempting to 'clear-flood' by holding the throttle wide open (WOT) while cranking had no effect.

A carburetor cleaning and rebuild is one of the several projects I have slated, especially since I don't know how well this bike was stored during the off-season. If the ignition pick up mod doesn't seem to help, it may be yet another reason why those carbs gotta come off :beerchug:
 

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Ride First, Tinker Later!
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As long as you do it right that is
Doing it right, is another story. It could turn into a reason to crack the case and discover where that mystery washer came from LOL!
 

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Fire Axe Man
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WOW!!! so after fighting with my bike has spark compression and fuel but wont run for [email protected]# since i bought the bike... i have been looking for something to control change timing thinking this were my problem, lots of people lead me to carbs, witch may have been another issue but not the issue... my pickup coils were gross and way out from the .030- .035 mentioned here, as i had spark but not always good and probably not at the right time... (ether made no difference while running ar cranking) spaying ether into carbs gave NO fire trying to start, when finally running badly ether would INSTANTLY kill bike as if i spayed water!!! its cold as **** here so this will be fixed another day but ThankYou so much for the pictures, and great info...
 

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Ride First, Tinker Later!
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...Another Worm Wriggles Out Of The Can...

Age not withstanding, I never expected to have one of the pick up coils (pulser) break off of the harness while I was dremeling extra metal off it's mounting bracket... however, that's exactly what happened! :doh: To make matters worse, the same thing happened to the other one while I was setting the air gap! :loser1:

Yeah, the wires themselves are very light gauge, and the insulation has lost almost all of it's flexibility. So I kept as much stress off the area where they are molded into the pulser body while performing my modification... to no avail. :BLAM:

I did manage to find a couple of pulser sets on the 'bay... one used, guaranteed good for $25.50 w/shipping and another one brand new for about $110 more. Being on a holiday budget, I decided to go on the cheap with the plan of simply splicing the replacements on to the original wiring *The hell you say? Remove the stator housing to replace the pulser assembly??? I think not...* :wow:

My new mission; try to find out what (if any) application uses the same pulser as is found on our bikes. I figure, if new replacements with pigtail ends can be had for a reasonable price, it would be an attractive alternative to disassembling half the bike & engine just to change that one assembly... just my honest opinion.
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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Age not withstanding, I never expected to have one of the pick up coils (pulser) break off of the harness while I was dremeling extra metal off it's mounting bracket... however, that's exactly what happened! To make matters worse, the same thing happened to the other one while I was setting the air gap
I recall reading on this forum in the past, similar situation... I recall they cut some plastic away using an Xacto knife, exposing the metal tab, in order to re-solder the wires, for a once again functional pick-up coil.

hope this helps

WilliamTech :smiley_th
 

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Ride First, Tinker Later!
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I recall reading on this forum in the past, similar situation... I recall they cut some plastic away using an Xacto knife, exposing the metal tab, in order to re-solder the wires, for a once again functional pick-up coil.

hope this helps

I don't know how viable that solution would be in this case... *shrugs* Will take pics when I get home and post ;)
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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I recall reading on this forum in the past, similar situation... I recall they cut some plastic away using an Xacto knife, exposing the metal tab, in order to re-solder the wires, for a once again functional pick-up coil.

hope this helps

I don't know how viable that solution would be in this case... *shrugs* Will take pics when I get home and post ;)
I think slimvulcanrider soldered a broken wire back to very short lead on his pick-up.
 

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Registered
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i recently replaced the pick up coils on my 750, i took cover loose and took the plug end off the new harness ( tool shopslike snap on, matco make a tool to remove end without damage) slid wires up thru and was able to put rubbeer boot in place without damage also, not the eazsiest thing to do but can be done i did not have to unbolt anything but side cover. also this is second time i had to replace them i got some guaranteed to work ones and they lasted like 3 months, just my opinion i would buy new and save the hassle of doing it again.
 

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Ride First, Tinker Later!
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i recently replaced the pick up coils on my 750, i took cover loose and took the plug end off the new harness ( tool shopslike snap on, matco make a tool to remove end without damage) slid wires up thru and was able to put rubbeer boot in place without damage also, not the eazsiest thing to do but can be done i did not have to unbolt anything but side cover. also this is second time i had to replace them i got some guaranteed to work ones and they lasted like 3 months, just my opinion i would buy new and save the hassle of doing it again.
That's actually a really good way to approach replacing the pulsers on this engine! Granted, I can envision how it can be a pain in the a$$... but is do-able with enough patience and persistence (and likely less of a hassle than doing the job the way Kawi would expect).

IMAG0181.jpg

IMAG0176.jpg

The wires seem to like to break inside of the pulser body itself. I did use an exacto knife to remove the plastic surrounding the terminals, exposing the electrical connections...

IMAG0175.jpg

IMAG0178.jpg

... there really isn't a heck of a lot of material to work with as far as making reliable connections. Could probably get creative and remove a bit more plastic with a very small Dremel bur, however that carries the risk of severing the electromagnetic coil connections.

Hmmm.... am thinking that I'll stick to my original plan of solder-splicing a pair of used coils in for now, just to get her up and running, and pick up a new set to install later on ;)
 

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Sparky!!!
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Hmmm.... am thinking that I'll stick to my original plan of solder-splicing a pair of used coils in for now, just to get her up and running, and pick up a new set to install later on
I did something similar.. but instead cut got two 4-pin weather Pack connectors and solder them inline, so next time all I have to do is unplug and plug in the new ones.
 

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Ride First, Tinker Later!
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I did something similar.. but instead cut got two 4-pin weather Pack connectors and solder them inline, so next time all I have to do is unplug and plug in the new ones.
Yes, even better! Less painful to replace in the future and just as reliable ;)
 

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Registered
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i am new here and first thing i must appologize for may english. i am from little european country called Slovenia.

so to the toppic:

did pickup coil clearence in i was suprissed with the difference. i am gonna do all others elektrical mod.

thanx for nice walktrough
 

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Premium Member
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i am new here and first thing i must appologize for may english. i am from little european country called Slovenia.

so to the toppic:

did pickup coil clearence in i was suprissed with the difference. i am gonna do all others elektrical mod.

thanx for nice walktrough
Welcome to the forum. Don't worry about your English. :beerchug:
 
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