Kawasaki VN750 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 113 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Clearancing the pickup coils has been a commonly referred to modification that seemed to be lacking some pics, so I took a few while I was doing the job this weekend...



In expectation of dribbling oil when the cover cam off, I put a piece of foil around the bike to prevent leaks onto undesired places. (VERY little oil actually leaked out...)




Next is to remove the three screws holding the cover on. On my bike, these screws were tight (!) and I used a phillips bit in a 1/4 drive socket to break them free. The cover was also a bit glued in place and I had to rap the cover with the handle of a screwdriver repeatedly to break it free and wiggle it off. Here is the cover showing the three screws, the cover, and their respective oring seals:





With the cover removed, you can now access the two pickup coils held on by two phillips screws each:





Instead of knocking off the inner most nub that locates the pickup coil, I decided to clearance the coil bracket hole and inner most edge with a burr bit in my cordless dremel to allow a tighter clearance. In this pic, the upper coil had been modified, but the lower hasn't:





Here's a diagram of modifications made to the coil bracket courtesy of my drarwing skills and MS Paint. The upper hole represents the modification, and the lower hole is unmodified:





This is a close-up shot of the modified bracket. Notice the little space between the bracket and outer locating nub:





I set both coils to 0.020" as described in the text write-up and the difference was certainly worth the effort.

Reassembly is opposite of removal. Hopes this helps visualize everything. Total time involved was less than an hour...



Cheers,
;)
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
2,505 Posts
Nice write up, not something I was planning to do but it looks fairly easy. Maybe on a rainy day. What was the big difference that you got out of this?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,236 Posts
Nice write up, not something I was planning to do but it looks fairly easy. Maybe on a rainy day. What was the big difference that you got out of this?
I got better starts and improved acceleration out of mine. I set mine at .018 ,you will feel the difference,especially if you have earshaved ,rejetted and changed the exhaust.

As best I can tell, it advances the timing a little due to the fact the coils enter the magnetic field a little sooner ,by virtue of being closer to the rotor and stays in it a little longer as well,about the same as changing your point gap and dwell on older points type distributors.
 

·
Patriot Guard Rider
Joined
·
825 Posts
Nice pictures. It definitely cleared things up for me since that is next on my mod list.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Thanks

Cudoes to you for total clarification on this. Pictures are worth thousands of words esp to guys like me. Like they say in Missouri "seeing is believing".:smiley_th
 

·
Member? ... check.
Joined
·
515 Posts
Nice Job abyssdncr. I like your solution. The tabs on the casting is left in place and unmolested. No worries about contamination because the pickups can be pulled away from the open areas for filing mods.
Smart and easy ... I like it. :smiley_th

P.S. - When I did this mod, a chainsaw file worked quite well to elongate the holes of the soft metal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
686 Posts
Nice job...

For clarity, you drilled the holes so they are oblong, cut a notch (to avoid nub) and then moved the coils slightly to the right (as you look at it) reducing the gap? Is that right? You do this for both coils?
What is/was the factory gap size?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Nice job...

For clarity, you drilled the holes so they are oblong, cut a notch (to avoid nub) and then moved the coils slightly to the right (as you look at it) reducing the gap? Is that right? You do this for both coils?
What is/was the factory gap size?
Yep, yep, & yep - you got it.

Factory clearance was over 0.030", but under 0.035" - no feeler guages in my bundle for the tweener sizes.

You're on a bit of a short leash with the dremel due to the wire pigtails, which is why the little cordless was nice as you can easily manipulate it like a pencil.
 

·
Linkmeister Supreme
Joined
·
7,960 Posts
Can you use an ordinary steel feeler gauge to set the gap?
Or do you need a non ferous brass one to use by the magnet in the rotor?

Thanks for the pics. I have read the directions several times, and even read the option for filing the bracket instead of chiseling the nub off. But without looking inside had never quite visualized where the nub was. It is all very much clearer now.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Can you use an ordinary steel feeler gauge to set the gap?
Gosh, I sure hope so - cause that's what I used! :beerchug:

I used the three handed approach for the install: Hand one puts the feeler gauge between the coil & rotor, hand two uses a larger flat head to put pressure on the coil bracket wedging into the feeler gauge, and hand three tightens up the philips screw. Wash, rinse, and repeat for the bottom screw.

Truth be told, if you had your 0.020 or 0.018 feeler out of it's pack by itself, the coil magnet would just hold in in place for you, but I hate putting those dang feeler gauges back in sequential order...
 

·
Linkmeister Supreme
Joined
·
7,960 Posts
I had wondered about this for a while because I recall seeing feeler gauge sets for sale in mail flyers, with one brass blade for some particular purpose involving a magnet. Glad I don`t need the brass blade, because I don`t have one!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
326 Posts
Little bit confused on this. I have looked at the pictures many times. I see the point of opening the bolt hole to allow the coil bracket to slide to the right some. But what is the nub you keep referring to? I am in the middle of doing a stator change the hard way and find this shall be an easy task to do with the case off the bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
278 Posts
Little bit confused on this. I have looked at the pictures many times. I see the point of opening the bolt hole to allow the coil bracket to slide to the right some. But what is the nub you keep referring to? I am in the middle of doing a stator change the hard way and find this shall be an easy task to do with the case off the bike.
I may be wrong, but if you look at the close up pic of the coil, you'll see 3 raised spots which form a semi-circle around each bracket screw head. I believe these are the said "nubs." Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

The inner most "nub" -- if knocked off -- previously achieved what is now accomplished with shaving down the bracket and not removing the "nub" according to the OP.

John
 

·
Linkmeister Supreme
Joined
·
7,960 Posts
I may be wrong, but if you look at the close up pic of the coil, you'll see 3 raised spots which form a semi-circle around each bracket screw head. I believe these are the said "nubs." Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

The inner most "nub" -- if knocked off -- previously achieved what is now accomplished with shaving down the bracket and not removing the "nub" according to the OP.

John
X2^^^^ That is exactly the way I understand it johnm.:smiley_th
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter #16

·
Registered
Joined
·
326 Posts
Thanks I had to re-read that one as well as the write up with no pics. Will be doing this mod before I put everything back in. Hopefully I will have no more issues with anything electrical.

+1 for a great write up with pics!!! :D
 

·
Concert connoisseur
Joined
·
2,231 Posts
this forum just gets better and better, thanks man!!!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
This is a great write up. I may try this soon, but I have a question- other than potentially advancing the timing slightly for better acceleration, does this assist in cold start ups in any way? In a different post I heard someone say that it helps with hot restarts. If it helps on cold starts, heck, I'll do this tomorrow. Anything that takes stress of my bat and starter in the winter is a super plus in my book.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
WOW even starts better cold

I just completed my pickup coil gap mod.
It is too cold and dark to go for a spin and get the bike hot but I even notice a difference on a cold start.

I went with clipping off the nub. :hitanykey
My only issue was I stripped the head on one screw before I went and purchased an impact screw driver. Those heads are very soft metal. If you don't have one I recommend getting one to break the screws loose. Will save a bit of :doh:

I got a new screw and also use some blue loctite on the threads.
I will take the girl out for a long ride tomorrow and see how she does.

My initial problem was she could be difficult to start when she was hot.

BTW: This was a very nice write up. Spot on on everything.
 
1 - 20 of 113 Posts
Top