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I had an accident last month and since I'm having to replace a few things (rip Vance and Hines pipe) I decided that this is the perfect time to paint the engine. I'm basically doing a complete tear down and re-painting/polishing everything down to the last bolt. So that brings me to the engine. I'll be using the VHT high temp gloss black paint and taping off the fins/all chrome. I would also like to keep all the bolts on the bike chrome. So short of meticulously taping off every bolt, what's the best way of doing this? I was think about doing a rough tape round all the bolts and then completely finishing the rest of the engine and then taking off tape, unscrewing bolts slightly, taping them off and then spraying around/under bolts. I already have a non leaking solid engine so in the process of unscrewing each bolt one by one and painting I would hate to cause any issues and I'm aware that some/ if not all bolts will need to be torqued to specs, which is fine but would prefer to not have to replace any gaskets and such if doing the above process warrants it. Also, what about the cylinder head gasket and other rubber parts on the engine, can those be hit with the VHT or should they be taped off? I'm looking to turn this VN to near showroom quality so everything will be meticulously cleaned/replaced and when I'm done I don't want to look back at 1 bolt and go "should have taken more time on that" so response from that standpoint would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 

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1986 VN750
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We didn't bother with the 'every bolt' thing. It would have taken forever!

If you're loosening 1 bolt at a time and re-tightening, it won't affect the gasket. If you have an entire covers set of screws loose, it could mess with the gasket.

We hit the rubber parts of the valve cover gasket with the VHT, seems fine so far.

 

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only way I can think of would be to tape all the bolts, OR, get new replacement bolts, and change them out after painting is done. doing one at a time *should* retain all the gasket seals and such.

might look into some sort of coating to put on the bolts that can be peeled off after painting, but I dont know of one off hand
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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only way I can think of would be to tape all the bolts, OR, get new replacement bolts, and change them out after painting is done. doing one at a time *should* retain all the gasket seals and such.

might look into some sort of coating to put on the bolts that can be peeled off after painting, but I dont know of one off hand
I've never tried it, but maybe Vaseline or other oil base substance....brushed on bolt heads with a very fine paint brush ? :wink2:
 

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The time it would take to carefully coat each bolt with Vaseline or some easy to remove coating would likely take longer than just painting them, them backing them out and stripping the paint off (with a wire wheel in a dremel tool, or just solvent and a rag)

I'd likely remove each, one at a time ....then replacing, after polishing the heads to a mirror finish. Just chuck the bolt in a drill and use a pad with a fine metal polish. That against the black cases would look awesome:)
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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The time it would take to carefully coat each bolt with Vaseline or some easy to remove coating would likely take longer than just painting them, them backing them out and stripping the paint off (with a wire wheel in a dremel tool, or just solvent and a rag)

I'd likely remove each, one at a time ....then replacing, after polishing the heads to a mirror finish. Just chuck the bolt in a drill and use a pad with a fine metal polish. That against the black cases would look awesome:)
I agree with KM.....then clearcoat or clear finger nail polish to prevent future rust. :motorcycl
 

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The time it would take to carefully coat each bolt with Vaseline or some easy to remove coating would likely take longer than just painting them, them backing them out and stripping the paint off (with a wire wheel in a dremel tool, or just solvent and a rag)

I'd likely remove each, one at a time ....then replacing, after polishing the heads to a mirror finish. Just chuck the bolt in a drill and use a pad with a fine metal polish. That against the black cases would look awesome:)
I agree with KM.....then clearcoat or clear finger nail polish to prevent future rust. :motorcycl
X2 on both of these! It kinda sucks but its the best way if you're going for quality.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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clean,decrease,clean,decrease AGAIN,clean,and sand any corrosion. oh, did I say clean?

Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
 
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This is how I'm going to do it, thanks. Since you made the Torque Value thread, I have a question for you. I'm about to do the tuxedo mod and replace the dampers while I have the engine out and I cannot find anywhere between the two manuals where it mentions the torque values for the mounting bolts on the inside alternator cover. I have some dificulty decifering the different terminoligy for the engine section of torque values.
 

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This is how I'm going to do it, thanks. Since you made the Torque Value thread, I have a question for you. I'm about to do the tuxedo mod and replace the dampers while I have the engine out and I cannot find anywhere between the two manuals where it mentions the torque values for the mounting bolts on the inside alternator cover. I have some dificulty decifering the different terminoligy for the engine section of torque values.
You say you looked here?:
http://www.vn750.com/forum/11-vn750-general-discussion/28793-torque-values.html

Do you mean stator?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes, I believe you are right, the stator cover will grant me access to the balance damper job as well. The torque value for the stator cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I know I'll have to take off the three Phillips for the outside stator cover but then I have the other screw I have to take out the generator cover part # 14031-1187 in order to swap out the dampers. So the torque valves for the generator cover screws is what I am looking for.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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the whole side cover must come off the motor


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I think the side cover bolts are 6mm thread, so from the chart...
6 mm = 52- 69 in-lb

I think the manual does refer to the stator as "alternator".
 

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Yes, I think the heads are 8mm? ...but the bolts themselves are 6mm, so I'd go 60 inch/pounds.

Honestly I never used a toque wrench on case bolts. I just tighten them up by hand using an 8" wrench or rachet and then check them again after the motor has warmed up. If nothing leaks, you're good... ;)
 

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Same here, I usually only use the torque wrench for cylinder heads or anything with a tightening sequence, or special clamping needs.

For these really small threads, I'll use a t-handle held in the center and use only my wrist or thumb and one finger. Still have to be careful, it's really easy to snap them. It's an acquired touch, if in doubt, use the torque wrench.

For the three outer cover screws, I wouldn't worry about a torque number. Just get them as tight as you can with one hand without reefing on them. You don't want to smash the o-ring gasket on the cover, so just tight enough that they can't fall out. They have o-rings on the threads too.
 
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