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Discussion Starter #1
This thread might be something done before... but...

As of this morning, it took about 2 or 3 months to finally determine the "reality" shape of this bike. It has been determined that the engine must come out for a rebuild. And so a stator mod will be done "properly" instead of cutting out the plate while the bike is on the stand.

On the way "there". Need to pull the rear tire anyway, so, will be doing the splines inspection... and the electrical harness is 30 years old and the entire bike is going to be rewired anyways because i want a custom dash that has 3 toggle switches, and a couple of meters on it... so... at that point... may as well sand off the frame and paint her too.. remove the emissions, etc... etc... etc...

SOOOooooo the question here for "Overhaul" is...

What is the suggested order of operations for tearing a full bike down to its core... and rebuilding it?

This is more than just asking the order that "needs" to occur, but based on supply of parts... while waiting on "xyz" bearing to arrive... need to be working on something else anyways, etc... This is a question that can only be answered by "opinions", certainly, but i am hoping to hear how various people arrived at those opinions, and why.

Thanks in advance.
 

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1986 VN750
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You can tear the bike down in 2 hours or less. Literally every bolt. So that's pretty quick. Get the bike a part, then get to your engine.

You wont know what you need (aside from standard gaskets) until you break open the case and inspect it.

Order from a local dealer to get parts 3-5 days faster than online. Have them come close to online prices - they will if you are ordering a bunch (i.e. full rebuild stuff).

There is no rebuild 'kit', so you need to spec each gasket part # etc.

While you have parts down time on the engine sort out just about everything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You can tear the bike down in 2 hours or less.
LOL. Maybe you can. But ima old and slow and careful and have a flight of stairs i need to carry that engine up among all the rest . . .

good exercise and i realize you meant "you" in general for others.

but seriously laughed when i read that. LOL

:grin2:
 

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1986 VN750
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Careful with the engine, threw out my back dead lifting it last time.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Careful with the engine, threw out my back dead lifting it last time.
My plan is to do an engine "migration" up the stairs. So.. lining up getting a jack from a friend to loan... put some wood on top of it, whatever.. use the jack to support engine close to the bike, by that time the tank will be off, etc.. So with enough top end access, remove the carbs, then the heads, and basically one chunk at a time, strip a handful of parts off the engine until it's as light as can be.

It weighs in at ~150 IIRC. so... can probably knock off 50 pounds if lucky. Lifting 100 pounds is not a big deal even with a slipped disc history for me... but omg... those stairs? I lost some ligaments in that wreck back in my twenties. And this is going to be UP and DOWN and UP and DOWN those stairs over and over for uhm...

yeah right... two hours. . hahahahahahahahaha OMG.... too funny.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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LOL. Maybe you can. But ima old and slow and careful and have a flight of stairs i need to carry that engine up among all the rest . . .

good exercise and i realize you meant "you" in general for others.

but seriously laughed when i read that. LOL

:grin2:
Stripped mine in four with beer,coffee and lunch breaks;)
 

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Step one, take some high-res pics all around the bike.

What about assembly? Are you carrying it back downstairs in one piece?

Might be better to strap it to a dolly, then you just have to heave one step at a time.
 

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Expendable newbie
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Step one, take some high-res pics all around the bike.

What about assembly? Are you carrying it back downstairs in one piece?

Might be better to strap it to a dolly, then you just have to heave one step at a time.
Oh, yeah. I also recommend taking pictures before and crap ton during the removal. Especially as you remove parts and bolts, so that you can refer back to them later and install the right pieces in the right location.

Don't trust your yourself to remember all these little details unless you have a photographic memory, in which case I'm jealous.
Also devise a system in which you can neatly organize all the bolts and not just mix them all in a bowl.
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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:doh:
Oh, yeah. I also recommend taking pictures before and crap ton during the removal. Especially as you remove parts and bolts, so that you can refer back to them later and install the right pieces in the right location.

Don't trust your yourself to remember all these little details unless you have a photographic memory, in which case I'm jealous.
Also devise a system in which you can neatly organize all the bolts and not just mix them all in a bowl.

ditto on all the above
.......suggest purchased box's of various size zip lock bags - bagging associated nuts/bolts/parts together in groups....
clean as you reassemble

and rags...go to Goodwill on 50% off day....huge assortment of suitable rags for cheap ! (in 2xxl & 3xxxl sizes - :doh: - )

You also will need an 18mm x _?__ bolt to pull the flywheel....
 

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:doh:

ditto on all the above
.......suggest purchased box's of various size zip lock bags - bagging associated nuts/bolts/parts together in groups....
clean as you reassemble

You also will need an 18mm x _?__ bolt to pull the flywheel....
18x1.5mm, also available as Motion Pro 08-0116 for about $9 online.

Ditto to the zip lock bags. Grab a box of the cheap ones from the store and a wide tip permanent marker. The fine point ones try to push into the plastic on the bag too easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Stripped mine in four with beer,coffee and lunch breaks;)
Okies... ima going to time the whole thing, including the documentation. And i watched some of those vids before, but i decided to start from scratch with #1 last night. AND the very first thing the guy did to the engine was pull off that ACCT.

SooOOOOoooo.. . . ...

The Murican MCCT mod is already the start of the tear down, it's already date stamped and timed, so it's been more than a day or so, for sure.

AND... at the store today besides pricing a torque wrench ( for later ), due to the lack of supply... i am cutting my own MCCT axle bolt from a 8mm hex head bolt that only has threads about a third of the way up...

So... told you slow and careful. :) And until i can tool up with a few of those pullers, and etc... no way i can get to those dampers you were talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Step one, take some high-res pics all around the bike.

What about assembly? Are you carrying it back downstairs in one piece?
Holy get go and crap! Excellent fore-sight, thanky, thanky, thankies.

Might be better to strap it to a dolly, then you just have to heave one step at a time.
T R U E, but for me, it's always one step at a time... but going down? Have to wait and see. . . down is harder than up as far as safety goes. Dolly sounds good but all of that knocking those things do... meh... tighten everything up to spec, gaskets still doing their cure thing, then WHAM! 13 times in a row...

Might be better to just put a dolly at the base of the stairs then lay some wood on the stairs and slide it on down. After that, it's only another 15 yards to where it'll be parked.

In fact... thanks again for having me dwell on the stairs... laying that wood down for the way up would only be a matter of the office chair i'm sitting in, with some strap downs.

:wink2:
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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Okies... ima going to time the whole thing, including the documentation. And i watched some of those vids before, but i decided to start from scratch with #1 last night. AND the very first thing the guy did to the engine was pull off that ACCT.

SooOOOOoooo.. . . ...

The Murican MCCT mod is already the start of the tear down, it's already date stamped and timed, so it's been more than a day or so, for sure.

AND... at the store today besides pricing a torque wrench ( for later ), due to the lack of supply... i am cutting my own MCCT axle bolt from a 8mm hex head bolt that only has threads about a third of the way up...

So... told you slow and careful. :) And until i can tool up with a few of those pullers, and etc... no way i can get to those dampers you were talking about.


With engine out, You can pull the large cover (forget name) in order to replace dampers....beware, in video #2 Roach makes a cardboard temp let noting bolt locations....two are longer than the other five........I remember in the past this has tripped at least two mech's up upon reassembly...........
Take a pic of Damper wheel prior to removal (damper rubbers behind)...it will re-mount two ways....one is 180 degree off !
ALSO, THE "CENTER" BOLT WHICH HOLDS THE DAMPER ON IS LEFT-HAND THREAD !

HOPE THIS HELPS.... - :wink2: -
 

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Use the cardboard method for the bolts that have to be assembled back in the same location. You can get a marker and trace the part on to the cardboard or just do a quick sketch of of it as long as you can tell what's what. Then punch some holes, or cut an X at the places where the bolts are suppose to go. As you take out the bolt, put them in their respective hole on the cardboard.

As for getting it back down, just do the barrel method. Roll that sucker down the stairs. Quickest way I know. Jk of course.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Oh, yeah. I also recommend taking pictures before and crap ton during the removal. Especially as you remove parts and bolts, so that you can refer back to them later and install the right pieces in the right location.

Don't trust your yourself to remember all these little details unless you have a photographic memory, in which case I'm jealous.
Also devise a system in which you can neatly organize all the bolts and not just mix them all in a bowl.
Wise words. Just so you know, though, in a former life, i repaired television sets. Also, i live alone here, so... ( grins ) i can put things ANYWHERE I WANT, without them growing inside legs ( kids, pets, wives ). After reading the replies so far... going to document the entire thing here on the forums with photos, so feel free to guide along before hand. Maybe it will rival the Clymer manual and the Forum Mods can sell it to support the server. :)
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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Holy get go and crap! Excellent fore-sight, thanky, thanky, thankies.



T R U E, but for me, it's always one step at a time... but going down? Have to wait and see. . . down is harder than up as far as safety goes. Dolly sounds good but all of that knocking those things do... meh... tighten everything up to spec, gaskets still doing their cure thing, then WHAM! 13 times in a row...

Might be better to just put a dolly at the base of the stairs then lay some wood on the stairs and slide it on down. After that, it's only another 15 yards to where it'll be parked.

In fact... thanks again for having me dwell on the stairs... laying that wood down for the way up would only be a matter of the office chair i'm sitting in, with some strap downs.

:wink2:
Locate a couple buddies....buy a couple 12 packs (oop's did I write 12 packs...I meant to write 6 packs - :doh: - )...all the help you will need (up and down) :pepper:
 

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On the damper weight, largest post on the weight, belongs in the smallest hole on the gear. It's counter-intuitive and easy to get wrong, because it looks right when assembled wrong. There is a pic in the manual, however, but it doesn't point out this subtle difference.

Definitely download the repair manual.
 

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Wise words. Just so you know, though, in a former life, i repaired television sets. Also, i live alone here, so... ( grins ) i can put things ANYWHERE I WANT, without them growing inside legs ( kids, pets, wives ). After reading the replies so far... going to document the entire thing here on the forums with photos, so feel free to guide along before hand. Maybe it will rival the Clymer manual and the Forum Mods can sell it to support the server. :)
I always loose things even when no one is around. Even if I put them all on a table, they'll eventually walk away and disappear. It's probably a conspiracy like disappearing socks.

When I pulled my carbs, I came up the idea that I should take photos of the whole process and post them up for others to refer to. I even thought of taking pictures from the same angle as the manual since they're in black and white and hard to see. However, I became too occupied with the removal and the pictures that I took aren't as detailed as I had hoped so I wussed out.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
:doh:

ditto on all the above
.......suggest purchased box's of various size zip lock bags - bagging associated nuts/bolts/parts together in groups....
Egg cartons, potato salad tubs, cottage cheese dins ( a personal favorite ), plastic drink bottles, bread bags, microwave dinner bottoms, trust me... got plenty. . . And screws/bolts? They go back into the chassis they came out of in the same order they came out, so... it's one piece at a time. Yes... there are parts where that simply won't work, but in general... saves time.


clean as you reassemble
That is the one thing that the video author sort of left out. He covered a few thing regarding cleaning, but you could see his parts were getting clean off camera when he brought them back to put back on.

I was thinking about actually polishing the engine as well. Will need to see if that's possible, but would like to try it and see. Also, would like to test the effects of our good buddy Seafoam in a soak just for experimental results. VALVES in particular ( my personal bane of fame.

and rags...go to Goodwill on 50% off day....huge assortment of suitable rags for cheap ! (in 2xxl & 3xxxl sizes - :doh: - )
I live in Central L.A. About oh.. hmm... two miles west of downtown as a crow flies. We probably supply those rags you are talking about buying. ( grins )


You also will need an 18mm x _?__ bolt to pull the flywheel....
Right... he used the rear axle bolt for that, or was that something else? He made his own puller though ( hoot!, that's my style ).

The other thing he did which sort of made me cringe though, was using that hammer on the head case... then going back and measuring how flat it was.

And he had an impact wrench... :/ I'll be using a long tube instead, more than likely.
 

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Rear axle nut fits into the deep spark plug wells when you remove those. Put half the nut into the well, the other half into the wrench or socket.

That brings up something else.... Don't disassemble more than you need to.
 
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