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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 89 with about 30000 miles that I bought a few years ago. I fixed it up myself, mainly carb cleaning, and it's run great since. Yesterday it started to sputter a little on the ride home, once I got it there I shut it down and tried to start it again, no luck it tried but then the dreaded clicking. I charged the battery and tested it,12.2v, started the bike and tested it again while running, 11.0v. I'm hoping it's not the dreaded stator but it doesn't look good to me. I replaced the R&R last summer when I noticed it over charging on my voltmeter. Any ideas? Battery tested good.
 

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I've got the same problem now and I had just put the Rick's stator in just over 2 months ago. Sent the old stator off in the mail today to Tim Parrot for the rebuild service.
 

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I charged the battery and tested it,12.2v, started the bike and tested it again while running, 11.0v.
Is that 11.0 v at idle or at 4K rpm?
11 volts at idle just after starting the bike could be normal.
11 v at 4k rpm would not bode well for the stator. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just charged the battery completely and retested, 12.8v battery only...11.8 at idle...12.0 at 4000 rpm. Only a marginal increase at throttle and no where close to what it should be at.
 

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Just charged the battery completely and retested, 12.8v battery only...11.8 at idle...12.0 at 4000 rpm. Only a marginal increase at throttle and no where close to what it should be at.
I'd check your regulator, just to be on the safe side, but it sounds like you've lost a leg (or two) of your stator...

My deepest sympathies...



FWIW, these stories are the ONLY thing keeping me on the fence about buying my old man's 750. I love riding the bike, and have the most sincere regard for it's power to weight ratio, especially as middle weight cruiser's go, but the incessant stator issues leave me on the fence...
 

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The stator replacement seems not as daunting since Tuxedo Seven posted his no engine pull, $20 case mod a few months ago.

Granted, when the time comes for a stator on my scoot, I`ll need new balancer dampers and need to pull it anyway. :(
 

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sorry to hear this, it doesnt sound good. I would do all the tests to be sure. on the lighter side the stator engine tilt was not as near as bad as I thought. 2 days and 250 bucks, with tuxedos mod it would be a whole lot less on both sides.
 

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The reviews Ive read online and some in here I would stay away from stators by rick. I did the Tim Parrot one myself. So far very pleased with what I got from him. I had a mess up with the payment and he sent me my stator all fixed and ready to go so i could get my bike running again sooner instead of mailing things back and forth. Then trusted me to get him the money. Then I went with the Mosfet R/R. I would replace both the stator and the R/R. But like mentioned earlier you can OHM out the stator. I bet your headlight dont come on when you start the bike, just a guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I haven't quite decided if it's worth the effort at this point, I may just buy myself the Concours 14, ST1300 or something similar. If I do go that route I'll have lots of spare parts that I've collected over the past couple of years to get rid of. The headlight works fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Silly question...testing the three yellow wires for the stator, am I testing the male side of the connectors? If so there is a problem with the stator. After thinking about it I might tackle this project even if I decide to get a new bike, the experience would do me good. I think I have another stator lying around I could test too, bought about half a vn750 for $100 when a local junkyards lease ran out. Maybe I'll replace all the old wiring while I'm at it.
 

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Silly question...testing the three yellow wires for the stator, am I testing the male side of the connectors? If so there is a problem with the stator. After thinking about it I might tackle this project even if I decide to get a new bike, the experience would do me good. I think I have another stator lying around I could test too, bought about half a vn750 for $100 when a local junkyards lease ran out. Maybe I'll replace all the old wiring while I'm at it.
You can test it at two places:

1. Unplug the individual bullet connectors and test the 3 yellow wires coming from the stator for 50-70 AC volts while the engine is running. Test 3 times in pairs-- AB, AC, and BC.
Then check for shorts to the frame from from each yellow wire individually, with the engine off.

2. If test 1 is good, then plug the bullet connectors back in.
Disconnect the 6 pin connector from the reg/rec, and repeat the tests to discover any faults in the wiring harness.
 

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Not sure if its the male or female end of the connectors, but it would be the end that goes to the harness that enters the left side cover of the engine. When my stator went bad, my headlight stopped working. One leg of the stator is also used for the headlight relay inside the junction box. So maybe your stator is good. Also I read on here that in addition to checking the resistance of the stator windings you can check the voltage between each connector as well, 50-70 VAC
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I was checking the right wiring then, at least one wire tested badly. I'm going to look through the four containers of parts that I have and hopefully the stator that's in there is OK. I'm going to try tuxedoseven's mod to remove the stator out without pulling the engine, I have our contracted pipefitters working on making me the plate right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
WooHoo... I had the whole outer cover with what seems to be a good stator intact in my parts bins. This should make the task of getting the plate perfect without cutting into my bike right away. I'll just bring the cover to work tomorrow and see if they can fab it. Maybe I'll be able to get this done fairly quickly over the weekend, hopefully all I'll need to do at the house is cut the inner hole to size on the bike. Can anyone think of anything else I may have overlooked?:smiley_th
 
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