Kawasaki VN750 Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Brought my very own VN750 and parts motor home. I was told it was stuck in second, and that even pulling it behind a truck couldn't turn the engine.

INCOMPETENCE BE GONE!!!

Bolted in the starter off my parts motor and hit it with a live cable.

Why, this engine turns just fine, and it's in NUETRAL.

Now the trouble I'm having is negligible. Very easily cleared up by someone who knows the bike. I came to the conclusion that the red wire on each coil is the common ignition hot. I tied to both positive terminals, then to a battery. I grounded the battery, then hit the starter again.

I have observed spark on both cylinders. Have not checked the plugs yet, considering I'd rather get some compressed air in there first. Sprayed some carb cleaner in each carb, but it won't fire. I get some backfiring through the carb on the back cylinder.

Anyone know what's going on? Have I hotwired it incorrectly?

Also, I fear it has the typical 1980s idiot proof electronic ignition that is non adjustable. Is this correct, and where would I find the pickup coils? I have spark, so the modules should be good.

I still have no book. Coming from SOHC4s from the 70s, it's still a bit confusing, but I'm getting it.

Help?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,766 Posts
As a start, here's (http://tinyurl.com/6j5q2) a link to a shop manual. Perhaps you can find some insight there. I know nothing about the ignition system on these bikes. Perhaps those that do will jump in.

Good luck !!!

Jon
 

·
Once Banned
Joined
·
2,125 Posts
Doesn't sound like you are using the ignition module. Just positive to the coils isn't going to do much. The ignition switch is a bunch of contacts to power the various components. Don't just go hot wiring everything, 'cause that's what Insured Disaster did. And he no longer has a 750, partly because of that, and partly because it wasn't a 750 (He put it on eBay, and that's when we saw that it was a 700 in a 750 chasis).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
238 Posts
El Taco- why are you hot wiring? Is it because you do not have a key? Get one made from a locksmith or get a used ignition cylinder. Also make sure you have a very good battery and it is fully charged. If it isn't, you'll crank it over all day long with spark and never get it started! Vulcans don't like weak or slightly discharged batteries.

I'm a little concerned about the fact the engine is turning over and is not locked up, yet you stated that it would not turn the engine being pulled behind a truck? (WHO THE HELL TRIES THIS AND WHY?)
Did the rear tire turn at all? It sounds like you may have gear/transmission-drive shaft-or spline/final drive issues if that rear tire isn't turning.
Also as Cegodsey pointed out a 700 in a 750 chassis or vice versa will not work--the wiring harness is specific to that motor-- each one has it's own harness.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
racohoon said:
El Taco- why are you hot wiring? Is it because you do not have a key? Get one made from a locksmith or get a used ignition cylinder. Also make sure you have a very good battery and it is fully charged. If it isn't, you'll crank it over all day long with spark and never get it started! Vulcans don't like weak or slightly discharged batteries.

I'm a little concerned about the fact the engine is turning over and is not locked up, yet you stated that it would not turn the engine being pulled behind a truck? (WHO THE HELL TRIES THIS AND WHY?)
Did the rear tire turn at all? It sounds like you may have gear/transmission-drive shaft-or spline/final drive issues if that rear tire isn't turning.
Also as Cegodsey pointed out a 700 in a 750 chassis or vice versa will not work--the wiring harness is specific to that motor-- each one has it's own harness.
It was a freebie. Come get it type thing, you know? Someone had removed the ignition switch, leaving but a contact plate and pigtail. The signal lights are gone, and the wiring looks a little chopped.

Remember, the guy that gave it away was nothing close to a motorcycle mechanic. Why they pulled it behind a truck is beyond me. I did notice that you can grab the shifter where the lever clamps on, and pull it out about an inch or so, then push it back in. Doesn't look good to me. Could have a drive problem, but I haven't got that far. Also haven't tried to shift it yet. Figured I'd make sure I have a solid engine, then go from there.

I've initially hotwired just about every bike I've put together. I've been riding for about five years, and never once put more than $50 into a bike. Never paid more than $25 for any motorcycle, with the exception of my 76 Husqvarna 360CR, which I happily paid $200 for.

Should the engine be strong, I will fabricate my own wiring harness, one simple enough for a monkey to troubleshoot. It will also occupy about half the space, and cut about 50lbs of wire out. *exaggeration*

Considering I have about eight SOHC4s, I can understand that I may actually have to PAY MONEY for Vulcan parts, as crazy as it sounds, but I'll wait until I absolutely must.


Anyhow, it turns over and rolls just fine, as if it's in nuetral. I'm not using a fresh motorcycle battery, but jumper cables off of a running truck. I'm grounding one side, with my hotwire tied to the positive cable, while I bump the cable against the starter lug.

The way it's firing, I would think the modules are working, considering it's a bright spark that fires like clockwork as the engine turns.

Also, cast into the cylinder is 749cc, and the parts motor has 699cc cast in the same spot.


 

·
Geek
Joined
·
872 Posts
That bike needs a lot of tender lovin care !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
rnewell said:
That bike needs a lot of tender lovin care !

I never said she wasn't rough. See my conflict when it comes to spending money?
 

·
Now what
Joined
·
400 Posts
**Also, I fear it has the typical 1980s idiot proof electronic ignition that is non adjustable. Is this correct, and where would I find the pickup coils? I have spark, so the modules should be good.**

I haven't had to do the kind of restoration you're use to, but I'll try to help if I can. The pickup coils are located behind the small panel on the left side of the case where the stator is. It's held on by three screws. Most people say it takes an impact driver to remove them, just so you know. Anyway, once it's off you'll have access to the coils. Not the stator, that would be too easy, just the coils. The ignition is indeed electronic and not adjustable.
 

·
and the Adventure Cycle
Joined
·
6,141 Posts
Hmm, hardtailed too. Looks like a project indeed. Best of luck with it.:smiley_th

As far as the shift lever moving in & out, there was a post about that issue awhile ago. Don't remember for sure, but I think a case split was needed to fix it properly, but a bushing will temporarily fix it.

And, I think it was Hizzo that was asking about other rear fenders, that one isn't stock and looks pretty good on it. Would certainly make tire removal easier. Also, those look like 700 rims on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Wouldn't call it a restoration as of yet. At this point, it's "will it run, or is it parts for something else?" I don't have a building right now to tear it apart in. Dirt blows all the time here.

If the transmission problems are the product of some speed freak's imagination, and the engine will run, I'll put it all together and ride it. A tear down and rebuild will have to wait.

Otherwise, I was looking at the switch, or what's left of it. Which way do y'all turn the key when you turn it on?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
hyperbuzzin said:
Hmm, hardtailed too. Looks like a project indeed. Best of luck with it.:smiley_th

As far as the shift lever moving in & out, there was a post about that issue awhile ago. Don't remember for sure, but I think a case split was needed to fix it properly, but a bushing will temporarily fix it.

And, I think it was Hizzo that was asking about other rear fenders, that one isn't stock and looks pretty good on it. Would certainly make tire removal easier. Also, those look like 700 rims on it.

I was concerned about positioning. Didn't know if it would work, but there's definitely enough shaft to grab with something and figure it out.

Also, I think the fender is HD, evo or something, by the holes and indentions for cheesy stick on reflectors.
 

·
Once Banned
Joined
·
2,125 Posts
I definitely like the looks of the fender. Reminisent of the Honda Magnas.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
238 Posts
Key turns to the right. You had better check the year/VIN tag on that bike. It does appear it may be a VN700 chassis w/ a 750 motor. If that's the case--GOOD LUCK!!
The 700's had black rims and motors. The 750's had polished (no paint) rims and silver/aluminum colored motors. The 4 big differences are the wheels,motor, and wiring harness and the self cancelling turn signals (on the 700's). Almost everything else is the same
You said you had a 700 (black) motor. Did it come with this bike?
That fender does look nice, that's what I'd like to put on mine; wish you new what it was from because it looks as close to a good fit as it gets.
Also wanted to mention that the rear brake lever looks like it's at the max. for adjustment-- you may not have much left for rear brakes, if any.
Hope some of this helps.
 

·
Uber Member
Joined
·
1,280 Posts
mmm very nice fender.... i want it....that is the style i am going for.... kinda like the vulcan 500
 

·
and the Adventure Cycle
Joined
·
6,141 Posts
racohoon said:
Also wanted to mention that the rear brake lever looks like it's at the max. for adjustment-- you may not have much left for rear brakes, if any.
Ahh, I didn't notice that at first. It does looked tightened down a good bit. (the one on the rear wheel)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
racohoon said:
Key turns to the right. You had better check the year/VIN tag on that bike. It does appear it may be a VN700 chassis w/ a 750 motor. If that's the case--GOOD LUCK!!
The 700's had black rims and motors. The 750's had polished (no paint) rims and silver/aluminum colored motors. The 4 big differences are the wheels,motor, and wiring harness and the self cancelling turn signals (on the 700's). Almost everything else is the same
You said you had a 700 (black) motor. Did it come with this bike?
That fender does look nice, that's what I'd like to put on mine; wish you new what it was from because it looks as close to a good fit as it gets.
Also wanted to mention that the rear brake lever looks like it's at the max. for adjustment-- you may not have much left for rear brakes, if any.
Hope some of this helps.
Yeah, someone cranked the adjustment all the way in, but it functions. They should have simply removed the arm and repositioned it.

The extra motor was acquired a couple years back from a friend. It was slated to be used as the powerplant for an adult scale big wheel trike project, but plans were scrapped and I sold the killer rear end I had for it.

I understand the differences you're talking about. Good that you can tell by the wheels. If for nothing else, I have a good 700 that may just have to go in there, if you should be correct in your assumption. I have no real clue as to the condition of the parts motor, other than it had a knock of some sort. Otherwise, I was told it ran fine.

The fender looks like a mildly modified Hardly Ableson. It was cut on either side and beat in to fit the Vulcan's rear frame section. It follows the rear section all the way to battery level, where it meets the plastic inner, which appears to have been cut as well.

I recognized the pattern of the holes, which identified it for me, and Dad says that the Evos had an indention for a cheesy stick on reflector, if that helps any. Not a HD hand by any means. I've done a little electrical work on them, but nothing else.

What are the differences in the harness? With such an interchangeable machine, they shouldn't be that far apart.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
The key is turned one click right from the slot pointing straight forward. BUT it might be two clicks clockwise if the handlebars are locked, which from the photo it doesn't look like it.
 

·
and the Adventure Cycle
Joined
·
6,141 Posts
El_Taco said:
Yeah, someone cranked the adjustment all the way in, but it functions. They should have simply removed the arm and repositioned it.
The only problem with doing that is the indicator marks for telling when the pads are wore down too far will then be useless.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top