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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,
I have a short problem. I was doing some highway riding a few weeks ago and my started to stall a little bit. It sput and spattered then stalled out. On I-95 OF ALL PLACES!! I stopped. It settled for a little bit and then It started back up and I rode. A lot. About a week ago I had a fellow rider ask if he could take it for a spin. He didn't have a problem at all. I get on it and ride and a 10 minute trip took me 40 minutes. The same thing happened at lower RPM's as well. Spat, sputter, stall. Almost as if it had run out of gas but I had a full tank. ::sighs:: Now I can't get the bike started without another (car) battery hooked up to it. Any ideas? Is this fuel related?
 

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HAWK
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2,576 Posts
Do you have any electrical options hooked up? Sounds like a posable Rectifier or Stator, Hope not but have you checked that.
Make sure the 3 Yellow wires from the stator are clean, Bad connections will cause that.
Hope this Helps
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey Spinner,
I have put any other options into it yet. Everything is stock. How would I go about checking the stator wires? I know where the RR is, just not the stator.
 

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HAWK
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2,576 Posts
The stator is behind the cover on the right side, You have to remove the motor to replace it or tip it in the fraim. The 3 yellow wires that go to the RR is from the stator. I don't have the numbers here but someone else will chime in soon.
 

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Search Goddess
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2,002 Posts
Before you get into heavy electrical tests, check your ground wires. Do you have a maintenance free battery? If not, get one! Check the grounds from the battery to make sure they are solid and have good contact. Also check the cables for anybreaks and make sure the battery is secured with no wiggle.
Another possibilty is the ignition. How old is the bike? Do you have several keys dangling from it? This can cause a short and the bike cuts out. Also the contacts could be bad.
Here is a ignition switch repair write-up from the yahoo VN750 group..

REBUILDING THE IGNITION SWITCH ON A VN750

REASON:

My 1991 Vn750 developed a "dead spot" in the ignition switch
which would cause the dash lights to flicker or go out completely.
For two years I lived with this problem and temporarily solved
it each time it would occur by slightly turning the key towards
the off position. It worsened to the point where the defective switch
would cause the bike to begin stalling - something had to be done. A
new switch is about 70 bucks, plus I didn't want to have to
deal with having to re-key my bike.

TOOLS REQ'D:

10mm socket/drive or nut driver
13mm wrench
12mm wrench
#2 phillips screwdriver
medium sized jewelers scredriver
6mm Hex driver/hex key/allen wrench
contact cleaner
small needle nosed pliers


PROCEDURE:

1. Remove the windshield (if applicable).

2. Remove the headlight.

2a. Remove the 2 phillips head screws that hold the front portion
of the headlight to the bucket - the screws are located about 4 o'clock
and 8 o'clock (be sure not to mess with the adjusting screw located
around 8:30).

2b. Remove the headlight lens and trim ring from the bucket - pull
the bottom free which should allow you to "un-clip" the top portion.
Disconnect the three prong connector from the lightbulb and place
the lens assembly somewhere safe.

3b. Using the 12mm wrench on the nuts on the insides of the bucket,
remove the 10mm hex headed bots that secure the bucket to the ears.
Carefully allow the bucket to hang down from the wires.

3. Remove the instrument cluster/gages.

3a. Remove the 2 bolts (1 on either side) of the "lights cluster".

3b. carefully remove the gauges and cluster
(allow to dangle from the wires).

3c. Remove the black rubber boot from around the outside of the
ignition switch post.

4. Remove the switch assembly - there are two socket
head cap screws under the top fork clamp - after removing the
bolts you should be able to "fanagle" the switch out of the fork
clamp.

4a. ***UPDATE***
It has been brought to my attention that if the handlebars are turned to the full left position, it is much easier to remove the switch without "fanagling".

5. Remove the two brass colored phillips screws from the plastic
body of the switch. Separate the electric switch portion from
the mechanical portion.

6. Carefully snap the plastic cover off the back of the switch -
check each of the solders carefully to make sure none have broken free.

7. While holding the switch "circuit board side up" carefully pry the
plasic body away from the circuit board where the little tang locks the
two pieces together - CAREFUL! - AS YOU SEPARATE THE TWO PIECES BE
CERTAIN NOT TO TURN OVER THE SWITCH PORTION, THERE ARE SEVERAL SMALL
PIECES THAT COULD FALL OUT!!!

8. Take the switch portion (should now be free from the bike) to a
suitable location to work on it (ie. workbench).

9. One at a time, remove the contacts from the switch and slightly
stretch the compression spring open a little bit.

10. Use contact cleaner to clean each of the contact points as well
as the contact paths (on the circuit board).

REASSEMBLY:

1. Do everything you just did in the reverse order.

Hope this helps someone - kent4chaos
 

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87 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
hey Diana! Thanks for the help you guys. I do in fact have a maintenance free battery. I'll have to wait until it becomes once again sunny to check these things.....it's been raining like CRAZY!
 
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