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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all - we all know oils are important and this forum regularly gets posts asking, "What oil do I put in my Vulcan?" Well I found a link to a test that was run on 2 groups of oils by several manufacturers, SAE40 and SAE50. From the looks of the test, all of us should consult it. See the test here:

http://www.sinwal.com/data/March 2006 Motorcycle.pdf

P.S. I use Lucas semi-syn 10W-40 and it placed almost last, but tested GREAT in the most important categories.
 

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The report is interesting but it is written and conducted by Amsoil, not an independent agency.
 

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Crap, I WAS in 5th gear.
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Another oil thread, yay! The tests results are probably generally true, even though a lot of the comparison oils aren't used that much, and their lab isn't A2LA or ISO17025 certified. Sure, Amsoil makes great oil, but for me it's not worth the money- totally overkill. Oils these days are very good across the board. The most important factor when selecting an oil is the weight. All conventional oils with a viscosity range of 30 (such as 10w-40) will suffer viscosity breakdown. Engine designers knew this when specifying 10w-40. Thicker oils don't flow as well when hot, so they cool less effectively. Thicker oils can also cause the bypass valve in the filter to stay popped open. I have a suspicion that a modern 5w-30 is probably best in our engines. Why don't one of you guys try it and report back, I am stuck in my old habits of using 5w-40 synthetic!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The report is interesting but it is written and conducted by Amsoil, not an independent agency.
Whoa, good point, I didn't see that. I agree that all oils are pretty good but it was at least good to see a test on them. Time to change mine as a matter of fact!
 

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I agree that all oils are pretty good but it was at least good to see a test on them.
Yeah, but....ketchup test being run by Heinz...gee, who gonna shine ?

These are not "tests" IMO, simply more of the usual capitalist, corporate generated propaganda. And besides, they tested synthetics against conventionals...what kinda test is that ? FIXED !...
I run Castrol GTX, have been since 1974, and never damaged even one engine. Even ran their bean oil in my motocross bikes (thats where Castrol btw got its name, CASTor bean OiL...a Wolfie fun fact to dazzle your friends with).
Castor oil (mebbe even Castrol) has been used in engines since at least WW1. WW1 fighter planes mixed it in their fuel. If youve ever stood behind a freshly started LeRhone or Gnome engine, yer nose would clue ya off.
Now, I got nuthin against synthetics, but IMO an engine does best on the same oil it was weaned on.
 

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Yeah. Read through this before..years ago....when an Amsoil rep here on the forum pushed his sales pitch. Intresting, but I find the results oddly obvious... #1 ranked oil....Amsoil. Surprise.

I put more faith in what the majority of motorcycle owners seem to be reccomending before any "test" paid for by an oil company.

I still use Rotella T Dino 15-40 BTW. I don't think it's the best oil out there, but it does all that needs to be done. You don't need a stick of dynamite to kill a spider.

If you're exceptionally hard on your motor..perhaps you should use something else...if you can afford to run Mobil 1 motorcycle oil, good for you, but there's no proof your motor will last any longer.

KM
 

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MANIC MECHANIC
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:doh: :dead_hors :itchy-scr NOOOOOOO!!!! Not another oil thread. But Like KM I also use Rotella 15w-40 or sometimes Delvac
 

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Another oil thread, yay! The tests results are probably generally true, even though a lot of the comparison oils aren't used that much, and their lab isn't A2LA or ISO17025 certified. Sure, Amsoil makes great oil, but for me it's not worth the money- totally overkill. Oils these days are very good across the board. The most important factor when selecting an oil is the weight. All conventional oils with a viscosity range of 30 (such as 10w-40) will suffer viscosity breakdown. Engine designers knew this when specifying 10w-40. Thicker oils don't flow as well when hot, so they cool less effectively. Thicker oils can also cause the bypass valve in the filter to stay popped open. I have a suspicion that a modern 5w-30 is probably best in our engines. Why don't one of you guys try it and report back, I am stuck in my old habits of using 5w-40 synthetic!
Most 5W-30 and 10W-30 engine oils will have an "Energy Conserving" label on them and they are NOT RECOMMENDED FOR USE IN THE VULCAN.
They will cause the clutch to slip and not operate properly.
I would not use any 5W-30 or 10W-30 oil in my motorcycle.
Stick to the 10W-40 or 20W-50 range oils recommended by Ma Kaw for these engine/transmissions combos. :smiley_th
 

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Well saw a very interesting "How do they do it" show on oil. Seems that all the "W" oils are really just oil that is rated at the lowest number. 15w40 is just 15 oil with polymers added. Basically a plastic of some kind. Now for the kewl stuff, I'll quote here...

Multi-weight oils (such as 10W-30) are a new invention made possible by adding polymers to oil. The polymers allow the oil to have different weights at different temperatures. The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, while the second number indicates the viscosity at operating temperature. This page from the Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ offers the following very interesting description of how the polymers work:

At cold temperatures, the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up, the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C, the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.

Source


They said was that this polymer looks solid but really was a very slow flowing liquid, not as slow as glass, but slow. They dump a block of this stuff into the oil. The more they use the higher the last number of the oil is. Anyway, when the oil is cold, they are like tiny little balls and can be moved around easy, when hot and they stretch out, not so easy and trap the oil between them.

I use Rotella Dino 15w40....
 

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Steve
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guys i know in the industry tell me that if you chnage your oils regularly and use the right weight of oils ie 10/40w, etc, than it does not really matter what oil you use. Its only if you go long intervals with out changing oil, that the expensive ones would be better as they dont break down as quick. A salesman wont tell you that thow.
 
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