Oil Type for 1989 Vulcan 750 (I don't think year matters, these bikes were made from 1986 to 2005)
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Rotella T4 (conventional) 15W40. 😁
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I thought I made it clear O’Darkness, it’s Rottella Synthetic. If I can’t find that I’ll use Mobil 1 Synthetic, which is what’s recommended for my Bonneville.
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I must have misunderstood something:
At this point, I understand you use Rotella but if it's unavailable, then Mobile 1. However, which TYPE? As in, which weight? Spockster says he's using a diesel-grade oil. If I knew nothing of oil, all I'd be looking for is Rotella or Mobile 1. Would I just look for a motorcycle specific oil by each brand?
I suppose I should have been a little more specific with my initial question.
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Rottella makes a “regular” petroleum oil AND a synthetic. I said the regular one was hard to find. The synthetic isn’t (as much). The Mobil 1 I look for is 10w40. I think the Rottella synthetic is 15w50.
Both of the Rottella oils are “diesel grade”.
Many started using the regular Rottella because someone back in the mid 80’s ran an extensive test of oils for motorcycles.
The top rated one was the Rottella. The 2nd place went to Mobil 1 (These were both regular oils)
Rottella and Mobil 1 later came out with synthetic oils. Mobil 1 in other testing placed 1st.
Rottella came in 2nd. However Mobil’s oil was almost twice as much, so many continued to buy Rottella.
Since then, others have sworn by their particular choice, e.g. Castrol, Valvoline, Amsoil, etc. None of these are actually bad oils. That’s why any discussion on “what oil to use” is usually met with disdain from veteran riders.
Hope that answers some of your questions 👍
Both of the Rottella oils are “diesel grade”.
Many started using the regular Rottella because someone back in the mid 80’s ran an extensive test of oils for motorcycles.
The top rated one was the Rottella. The 2nd place went to Mobil 1 (These were both regular oils)
Rottella and Mobil 1 later came out with synthetic oils. Mobil 1 in other testing placed 1st.
Rottella came in 2nd. However Mobil’s oil was almost twice as much, so many continued to buy Rottella.
Since then, others have sworn by their particular choice, e.g. Castrol, Valvoline, Amsoil, etc. None of these are actually bad oils. That’s why any discussion on “what oil to use” is usually met with disdain from veteran riders.
Hope that answers some of your questions 👍
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That's much better, thanks! Since we're on the subject:
Last year, after I got the carbs back from the mechanic I did an oil change. I changed the external filter near the radiator. I had absolutely NO clue there was also a filter behind the drain plug. The current oil now has about 1000 miles on it. I'd like to change the oil again, but this time a little more thoroughly.
Is that internal filter replaceable, or am I stuck just washing it? Would brake cleaner or degreaser harm it? I think it's shown in one of the video tutorials, but my internet speed here sucks right now.
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The “filter” is really just a tubular metal screen. I cleaned mine with contact cleaner.
The importance of this for the Vulcans is if your balancers are about to give up the ghost, you’ll find tiny bits of black rubber in the screen when you remove it. If you find some, the fuse has been lit and your only hope is to either replacing the balancers or bury the bike and report it stolen for the insurance money.
When a balancer goes out, it usually causes catastrophic damage to the engine.
So, just a heads up …😉
The importance of this for the Vulcans is if your balancers are about to give up the ghost, you’ll find tiny bits of black rubber in the screen when you remove it. If you find some, the fuse has been lit and your only hope is to either replacing the balancers or bury the bike and report it stolen for the insurance money.
When a balancer goes out, it usually causes catastrophic damage to the engine.
So, just a heads up …😉
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NO WAY?!?! Yikes, I think I better change that oil sooner and check for those flecks. Thanks for the tip!
Do the balancers always go out? Is this a relatively easy thing to address BEFORE it happens?
@Checkered Floor Garage WE NEED A VIDEO!!!!
EDIT: Just did a quick search of the site, and I'm not happy.
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Bits of clutch material found in the screen is completely normal, these pieces will be thin, flat, flakes.
Damper bushing material tends to be chunky, thicker.
No, they don't always fail. I opted to replace mine while doing the stator. Later, I figured out the original bushings were in good shape so I gave them to someone here to use.
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Do they always go out? Not really. Through the years I’ve only read about a few owners that had them go. Most never report a problem. The issue is just a bitch if you find there’s a issue because you have to tear the motor down to replace them.
It’s just something you need to keep an eye out for.
I’ll also add that those asking about what oil to use, I’ll just tell them to use whatever they have been using, as long as it matches the specs in the owners manual.
I don’t see any reason to switch to a synthetic if life’s been fine without it. Many change their oil at least once a year so the added expense of going to a synthetic is just a waste of money, IMHO.
Other than stator problems, these motors seem fairly bullet proof. Not sure what the record is for highest mileage. Many like me tend to move on to a different bike long before they hit 6 digit mileage.
It’s just something you need to keep an eye out for.
I’ll also add that those asking about what oil to use, I’ll just tell them to use whatever they have been using, as long as it matches the specs in the owners manual.
I don’t see any reason to switch to a synthetic if life’s been fine without it. Many change their oil at least once a year so the added expense of going to a synthetic is just a waste of money, IMHO.
Other than stator problems, these motors seem fairly bullet proof. Not sure what the record is for highest mileage. Many like me tend to move on to a different bike long before they hit 6 digit mileage.
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