Do you happen to remember how much you paid for expendables like gaskets and such? Did you do the cylinder hone and ring replacement like Kawi recommends? The reason I ask is that it looks like if this is getting fixed it will be by me since the $2k+ estimate I got is more than I paid for the bike.
I just put mine back together and no, I didn't do the hone or the ring replacement. Ursula only had 9100 miles on her when I tore her apart. She seems to run fine. AFAIK, there is no gasket "kit" for the bike. You'll have to order the gaskets separatly. However, if money is an object, you may be able to use high temp RTV instead of gaskets. I know of several people who have done this with no ill effects.
It cost me about $150 in gaskets and O rings. I used a combination of www.ronayers.com and Bike Bandit to order my parts. Ron's prices are cheaper but he charges more for shipping and takes about a week just to process the order. Expect about a 2 week turn around from order acceptance. Bike Bandit charges more for their parts but shipping is about half of Ron's and they get the parts to you quicker. It depends on how soon you want the parts and whether the cost difference is worth it. I used BB when the cost diff was only a couple of bucks. Both worked out great for me and you will end up ordering last minute parts that you hadn't thought of or that broke during install or removal.
Biggest problem I had as far as gaskets and O-rings sealing was the stupid coolant pipes on the heads and the pipe from the right side cover to the crankcase, definetly buy new o-rings for them. I didn't change piston rings or hone the cylinders either. Read the manual and mark the pages with tabs, both the Kaw manual and the Clymers have you bouncing all over the book. I bought almost everything from RonAyers, shipping on last minute things is a little high but if you look everything up and make one order it is reasonable.
Definatly replace the O rings on the coolant pipe that runs from the right engine cover to the engine. There are 2 of them!! By that I mean 2 on each end for a total of 4. I didn't remove the pipe from the cover, only the engine so didn't have to replace those 2. I missed that there were 2 and only put one O ring back in and had to tear the cover off again to put the other O ring in when it shot coolant out the side like a fire pump!! Now she runs leak free. I found it easier to place the O rings into the engine and then insert the pipe rather than put the rings on the pipe and then put it back into the engine. The rings distorted that way and wouldn't seat in the engine.
One other piece of advice, take the front bevel gear case off before you drop the engine and put it on after you remount the engine. It will save you from inventing new cuss words and several hours of time.
Dang Sky Rider, I bet that must have been a bear to take the engine out with the bevel case still there! I wish the manauls would say "go to page xx for yyy procedure." I know they can't have ever step back to back or you'd have a million page manaul, but just including the page numbers would be a huge help.
Actually I was fortunate enough to have read J R Allas website BEFORE I pulled the engine and the credit goes to him for the new cusswords. He mentioned the front bevel gear issue so I didn't have to go through the difficulty.
BTW, although most wrenches try to tell you this is a very difficult job, it's really not that hard if you have both the Kaw and Clymer manuals. They seem to fill in for each other quite well. I had the engine back together in about 3 weeks of off and on working on it in the evening after work. I also had several setbacks due to the fact the enging halves had been sitting in the garage for 4 years awaiting reassembly.
Once you split the case be very careful with the main crank bearings!!! They are NOT removable and are very soft bronze. Try not to ding them or scratch them in any way. My right side bearing got distorted because I tried to remove it. I ended up taking some 800 grit emory cloth and dressing the bearing a little to get the crank to turn smoothly again. It was a gamble but it worked. Had it not worked, I'd be looking for a set of crankcase halves. So far so good though. I have about 200 miles on the engine and it runs fine.
I don't know about the 750 , but the vulcan classic there is a replaceable oil pump gear made by some of the guys on their site. If they are similar it may be worth looking into. Go to gadgets and look into it.
The engines are different. On the 700/750, the only way to get to the gear or the pump itself is to split the case. There is no access even with the engine covers removed. The oil pump is driven by the same shaft that turns the water pump impeller only it (the oil pump) is internal and is separated by a mechanical seal and 2 sets of bearings separating it and the water pump impeller.
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