[vn750angky]

Sacramento gets *hot* in the summer. The fan comes on even cruising at 60mph. I burned up a stator on a new 750, and I think it's because of the hot oil. When the fan comes on, it cools the coolant, but that just adds current drain to the stator and heats it up even hotter.
I'd like to cool the oil. But I can't find any adaptor to screw on under my oil filter. Neither do I know how to plug into the oil system with a bypass to attach a generic oil cooler.

Anybody know what might be done?
Angky.

 

[RepairmanSki]

This may or may not be helpful.

I am also a VW buff and know of a filter relocation kit for the older air-cooled motors. It basically is a round plate dimensioned like an oil filter but with fittings plumbed for outlet and return.

I would, personally, start with something like that and toss on a smallish trans-oil radiator from some late model wreck. Mount that in front of the coolant radiator and call it good. Anyhow, hope it sparks an idea for ya. Someone here may know that something like this already exists. I'm still a noob =)

 

[MarkG]

You say your bike is new Angky?
Either way (because you haven't said you did already) you might want to check the thermostat/cooling system. Just to make sure there's no air in the system or nothing is sticking.

 

[Woody]

I to would also look to the thermostat and cooling system, also check the oil level as it aids in cooling also. Maybe even try a syn oil they do tend to run cooler than dino oil.

 

[MarkG]

Another thing to check is your rad cap. Make sure it's sealing. A bad cap can cause loss of pressure and overheating.

 

[vn750angky]

Air in Coolant???

Thanks, guys, for the suggestions.
This idea about air in cooling system intrigues me. Maybe I need to know more.
The bike is new--2004 model, bought last April 2005--about 12,000 miles (all of them mine).
Oil is syn--no dino juice ever in it except for break-in. Kept topped and changed every 3,000 - 5,000 miles. Always new filter.
I pulled the stator--inside the engine is pristine clean--*no* carbon deposits in engine, nor coking on stator. (Stator is shorted, but no carbon buildup on it.)
So none of those things should be the problem.
But air in coolant? How does air get into the cooling system? Where is it at? More important, how do we get it out????

 

[kornolio]

I'd open the coolant filler cap (of course when the system is cold) and make sure there is coolant right under the cap so you could see cooling system is filled up with the coolant. If it isn't full, fill it up and ride for some time, then check if the level is the same as it was.

 

[Hizzo3]

if you dont keep the overflow bottle full, when it sucks in coolant and it runs out it will start to suck in air....and since air doesnt move like water in a closed system like that it makes the coolant move very slow and sometimes not at all.....

to properly "de-air" the system i found it is best to fill 'er up to the top...then squeeze the hose just a tad when putting on the filler cap....gets out every last bit.

 

[Ironman]

Thanks, guys, for the suggestions.
This idea about air in cooling system intrigues me. Maybe I need to know more.
The bike is new--2004 model, bought last April 2005--about 12,000 miles (all of them mine).
Oil is syn--no dino juice ever in it except for break-in. Kept topped and changed every 3,000 - 5,000 miles. Always new filter.
I pulled the stator--inside the engine is pristine clean--*no* carbon deposits in engine, nor coking on stator. (Stator is shorted, but no carbon buildup on it.)
So none of those things should be the problem.
But air in coolant? How does air get into the cooling system? Where is it at? More important, how do we get it out????

There's a bleeder valve located on the thermostat housing. I haven't changed the coolant yet (going to this summer) but Clymer's says to remove the gas tank to get to this valve. Open the valve, air bubbles out. If you haven't replaced the coolant, it's probably time anyway. Get a copy of Clymer's or another manual. There's a couple of drain bolts on the engine that have to be removed to get all the coolant out.

My bike's stator was defective when it went into the bike. Had it replaced under warranty. Maybe they just had a bad batch of stators. Apparently it's cheaper to replace the bad stators than to make sure they're all ok in the first place.

I've never heard of anyone putting an oil cooler on a 750 and they've been running around for over 20 years. I doubt it's worth the trouble.

 

[kenzacharyla]

I bought a cooler that staps on the oil filter and has ridges all aournd so that the heat is disipated eaiser. I have seen prettier models in different magazines. I think JC Whitney has a few. Mine is aluminum and seems to work fine. I think it cost about $20 and it came from someone on the internet. K

 

[Hizzo3]

I bought a cooler that staps on the oil filter and has ridges all aournd so that the heat is disipated eaiser. I have seen prettier models in different magazines. I think JC Whitney has a few. Mine is aluminum and seems to work fine. I think it cost about $20 and it came from someone on the internet. K

for some reason i doubt it makes that much difference...i could explain why but i am not even thinking its worth the effort... but if you wanna know, read why radiators work instead of just a big jug of water with some metal fins on it.

 

[kornolio]

I recently replaced the coolant and the effect is - my engine much cooler than it was before. I don't know how old was the coolant when I bought my cycle, but the new one works better.
BTW, Clymer says to remove the gas tank to get to the valve, but I didn't and spilled just maybe couple drops of coolant instead of removing the tank. You gotta just remove the right plastik cover and have not too thick fingers and you'll be ok.

 

[Ironman]

**BTW, Clymer says to remove the gas tank to get to the valve, but I didn't and spilled just maybe couple drops of coolant instead of removing the tank. You gotta just remove the right plastik cover and have not too thick fingers and you'll be ok.**

Thanks, I really didn't want to have to remove the fuel tank.

 

[vn750angky]

THanks again, folks.
I'm off on a business trip. When I get back, I'll see if I can get that bike back together again, with all the air out of the coolant.
I'll check J.C. Whitney again to see if they have an oil cooler that will fit this bike.
Angky.

 

[KIMMERLING]

OK. So, would an oil cooler work (be beneficial) on a vn750? If so, does anybody know a bolt on kit and where to get it?

 

[OlHossCanada]

The vn750 is liquid cooled, so an oil cooler would be of limited utility, I think. If you mount it in front of the rad you cancel out any benefit, and there is not really any good way of mounting it out to the side. I read 1 part of a 2 or 3 part series in American Iron Magazine last year about oil coolers for air cooled H-D, and would use one on them. I will however, see if I can find a website address for the coolers they used, and post it for you.

EDIT: Coolers were made by Jagg. No indication of anything made for our bikes.

As I recall, most Suzuki cruisers are liquid cooled. One difference though is the 90 cid model (1500 cc), has an oil cooler instead of a water and glycol based coolant flowing though a rad. I `m not sure why. Maybe it is a test to see if it is better.

Since reading on this forum a few weeks ago about constructing an external oil line to spray oil on the stator to cool it down in high summer heat, I have been thinking that may be the solution to our problems with high engine temps. If we can keep the stator temp below the coking temperature of oil, we should be able too help it live longer.