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Discussion Starter #1
My VN750 overheated just as I was pulling into the garage after riding home on the first really nice (over 78 degrees) day since I purchased it. '06 with 2k miles. Checked coolant tank and found it was very low. After cooling off it was still low. Topped it off with distilled water.

Rode again next day in similar temps and now was paying close attention to gauge. Needle was running close to middle of the gauge all the way home and would creep up when bike was stopped.

Purchased cheapo antifreeze tester and checked it after bike cooled. Only floated 1 ball out of 5. Time to change coolant!! Went to Wallyword and found out Dexron and SuperTech both have exact same ingredients, so went with SuperTech.

Drained coolant from drain at bottom of engine, bolts under spark plugs on each cylinder and radiator. About 1.5qts total came out, not including the dribble from the cylinder bolts. No oil in used cooant. Refilled radiator & tank with 50/50 mix and burped using bleed valve and also got a some bubbles to clear while revving the engine a little. Tester now floats 4 balls.

Let engine cool and topped off tank (1/4 cup low) and radiator (also 1/4 cup low). Now gauge will read between 1/3 and 3/8 of the way. Seems hot:BLAM: compared to my wife's which runs a little above the 1st hashmark to the right of stone cold. I can smell coolant around fuel tank area and figure next step is to remove fuel tank and check all clamps for tightness and hoses for cracks/leaks. Coolant tank is a little low after each ride. Pressure cap may need to be replaced too.

Anything I'm missing on the cooling problem? By the way, radiator fan works.

Decided to change oil too.

Went with Rotella 5w-40 synthetic and SuperTech filter. Totally warmed up engine released exactly 3 liters of of old oil that didn't look totally black yet. Used side drain and let it go for at least an hour while I did other stuff. No water in oil. Replaced drain and dropped off old filter which got me about another cup of oil in the drain pan.

Based on the output (3 L) I thought maybe it was running low even though the sight glass (on center stand) said it was just one RCH below full. Poured in 3 L of new oil. Sight glass indicates full. Started up engine and watched oil disappear from sight glass. Shut down after less than 60 seconds. Sight glass now shows just below full so I added a couple ounces of oil. Sight now glass now shows full with a little bubble at the top or sometimes no bubble. Went for 15 minute ride. Same story with oil level in sight glass afterwards.

Where's my extra liter of oil supposed to go??

On a side note there appears to have been some sort of leakage onto the rear wheel/tire from the gap between the wheel and shaft housing. Not much and it may have been something I drove through, but not sure about that since we've had no rain here. Not riding again until I crack open that assembly and check gear oil level.

What else should I be on the lookout for with such a low mileage bike that probably wasn't ridden much, if at all, in the last few years?
 

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You can get a little more oil out of the engine when changing if you turn it over a couple of times. Remember the filter holds some too.
 

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Unless you tear down the engine, it would be hard to get all the oil to drain from areas or pockets inside. Don't lose any sleep over the extra oil you can't put in there! You did the right thing when you did the oil change.

Sounds like you might need to flush your cooling system possibly. Might be some gunk in there from the bike sitting for so long between riders. Who knows, the PO might have used hard water and some of your radiator ports are clogged??

Have you done a spline lube yet? It should be your next wrenching job. Don't put it off. You'll get a good look at what might be leaking around the drive shaft area...
 

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Liters......lol.

Change your filter when you change the oil. You should be able to put in about 4 quarts. (We don use no steeking liters here...)

The 4 liter mark on the engine case is a bit optimistic. With the bike on the centerstand, level ground, the oil warm, enigine off for at least 15 miinutes...the oil level should be right at the very top of the sight glass. Better to be a bit over that than under that.


KM
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No stinkin liters

I don't usually use liters either; it just so happened that the partial jug of oil I started out with had exactly 3 liters left in it. I'm not gonna worry about the rest of the partial "quart" I did not get to pour in now:smiley_th.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
system flush 'n spline lube

Fergy,

I have read a couple of post about flushing and some are for it and some against it when you include a flushing additive. Have you done it using prestone flush or something similar?

Spline lube is on my radar too. I have to say I've already done more work on this bike than my previous Yamaha, but I think the sitting around not being ridden is the main source of problems with so few miles on the clock.

Unless you tear down the engine, it would be hard to get all the oil to drain from areas or pockets inside. Don't lose any sleep over the extra oil you can't put in there! You did the right thing when you did the oil change.

Sounds like you might need to flush your cooling system possibly. Might be some gunk in there from the bike sitting for so long between riders. Who knows, the PO might have used hard water and some of your radiator ports are clogged??

Have you done a spline lube yet? It should be your next wrenching job. Don't put it off. You'll get a good look at what might be leaking around the drive shaft area...
 

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The oil will go into the engine when it's running and not show on the sight glass. Mine does the same exact thing. After it's shut off is when it drains back into the bottom of the engine to where you can see it in the sight glass.
My engine took 4 liters of oil to fill it, and there is a small bubble at the top. I pulled the bottom drain plug, and let it set overnight draining into a pan, then filled it. I have the small stock size oil filter on mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update on cooling

Was smellin antifreeze after riding in last post. Used 6mm to tighten all hose clamps. NO vis sign of leakage around any clamp area. Getting to the ones under the tank was interesting; managed to do it w/o removing fuel lines, it was a bit of a balancing act tho!

Suspicious of cap; after every ride it is moist on the underside. Went to OReilleys auto parts and had the guy look me up a cap; perfect match (what are the odds of that happening?!)!

Today's ride. Temp much more stable on ride home-fan never kicked in:smiley_th!!

Check for signs of leakage and odor again. almost nothin and it'll probably take a while for all of it to disipate completely. either way need to keep one eye on temp guage at all x's for a while.

Still wondering about the oil amount tho. Somebody mentioned something about "burping" done with oil change. WTF is that?
 

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Was smellin antifreeze after riding in last post. Used 6mm to tighten all hose clamps. NO vis sign of leakage around any clamp area. Getting to the ones under the tank was interesting; managed to do it w/o removing fuel lines, it was a bit of a balancing act tho!

Suspicious of cap; after every ride it is moist on the underside. Went to OReilleys auto parts and had the guy look me up a cap; perfect match (what are the odds of that happening?!)!

Today's ride. Temp much more stable on ride home-fan never kicked in:smiley_th!!

Check for signs of leakage and odor again. almost nothin and it'll probably take a while for all of it to disipate completely. either way need to keep one eye on temp guage at all x's for a while.

Still wondering about the oil amount tho. Somebody mentioned something about "burping" done with oil change. WTF is that?
if your oil light doesn't do out almost immediately upon startup,you twist the oil filter off just enough to let the airlock out and quickly tighten it bac up when it spits up oil ,like burping a baby ,but unlike burping a baby, a clean shirt is not required for the bike to spit up on.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oil light goes out as soon as engine fires so I guess my baby doesn't need burping. Thanks for the info; I'll file it away for now and hopefully if I see the red light in the future, it'll jog my memory enough to recall the "burp".

Now it's on to spline lube next.
 

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Oil light goes out as soon as engine fires so I guess my baby doesn't need burping. Thanks for the info; I'll file it away for now and hopefully if I see the red light in the future, it'll jog my memory enough to recall the "burp".

Now it's on to spline lube next.
Always prefill the oil filter before installing it, then you will never have to burb it there after. By prefilling I mean both filling the oil filter cavity and properly saturating the filter media; new filter, add oil, wait for it to be absorbed, add more oil, wait again, continue until the filter stops accepting oil.

To address the original post; I just changed my oil yesterday myself (for the first time since owning the bike), because I wanted to try the Rotella T6 oil so favored on this and other motorcycle forums. I was surprised at how popular the Rotella brand is with bikers after doing a bit of research. Also, I wanted to see if the T6 version had any effect on the 'coffee grinder' issue. I was able to get just over 3.5 quarts in using a Bosch 3323 oil filter which is about 1 inch longer than the OEM oil filter. That brought the oil level up to the site glass fill line. Threw in the remaining oil for good measure which brought the level to the top of the site glass (can just make out the little bubble at the top of the site glass). I realize that technically that is overfilled, but a few extra ounces is not an issue, as others have pointed out. As for the coolant gauge, mine runs in the middle of the gauge (straight up and down) under normal conditions. Always has, even after flushing the coolant.

On a side note; The Bosch filter seems to have a higher flow rate, better anti-drain back characteristics or both as compared to the OEM oil filter. With the Bosch oil filter, I've noticed that the oil light goes out with just a few cranks of the starter, even before the engine fires up. With dealer installed OEM oil filter and oil, the oil light would stay on until the engine was fired up, regardless of how long it took the starter to get it there. Nothing scientific here, just an observation.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for your input Chris. Will add prefill to my oil change regimen. Also good to hear about your temp gauge position.

When you do cooling system flush, do you use straight water or some additive?
 

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Thanks for your input Chris. Will add prefill to my oil change regimen. Also good to hear about your temp gauge position.

When you do cooling system flush, do you use straight water or some additive?
I use a 50/50 mix of distilled water (never tap, spring or rain water) and standard antifreeze (both for autos and motorcycle). A 50/50 coolant mix is easy to figure out (by design), offers the optimal temperature range (for most of the country) and not very expensive (for the protection it offers). Change it out every few years and have never had any coolant related problem.

I do not consider special coolant additives necessary or worth the extra cost (for street machines), unless you live and/or ride under extreme conditions; racing, very hot, very cold, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah, I have a 50/50 mix in the system right now.

My question was more about when you mentioned "flushing" the system. I have heard some folks say it is better to just use plain water and others say to Prestone flush (and some who say NEVER to do that!).

What has been working for you when you flush?
 

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you give it the ol "douche" (ask your wife to borrow a bottle:) )... costs you like $15 = 1 pint of vinegar 2 gallons of distilled water and 1 gallon of 50/50 pre mix or 2 half gallon bottles of engine ice the ICE will cost you a bit more.

never run JUST water i did this in the Trumpet and corroded/rusted the hell out of my heat exchanger (coolant/oil)

1.) drain old stuff and take off your resi tank and clean it while its off

2.)fill radiator with half a pint of vinegar and distilled water let it get to temp then let idle for 10 minutes

3.) drain and fill with distilled water let get to temp then let idle for 10 minutes

4.) drain and fill with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze or Engine Ice you'll run about 10 degrees cooler with the ICE
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks Qweezy.
 

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Yeah, I have a 50/50 mix in the system right now.

My question was more about when you mentioned "flushing" the system. I have heard some folks say it is better to just use plain water and others say to Prestone flush (and some who say NEVER to do that!).

What has been working for you when you flush?
I used a Prestone Radiator Flush once on an old Ford Mustang. The previous own had used tap water for years and there seem to be a lot of deposits in the coolant system. After the flushing process the radiator leaked from multiple locations and had to be replaced. Since then I've never used any type of flush method. Simply drain the coolant system every 2+ years and fill with 50/50 coolant mix. I just did my VN750 last October and the old coolant draining from the system looked as good as the new mix going in. However, if the draining coolant looked brown and/or nasty, then would run a batch of distilled water only as a flush, but no chemicals.
 
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