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You've got the rotation right.

That manual is good for all years, there are some supplements for sometime after 2002, but they're not much consequence.

The wet clutch is pretty tough, you really have to flog one to hurt it much.

Premium gas is a waste of money on this engine, it likes regular. Premium can make lots of carbon in the cylinders, slower starts, and reduced mpg
 

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All the bikes are the same, I have a 2005 and been using the same manual everyone is referencing so I wouldn’t worry too much. If you eventually do the clutch it’s not a big deal or mess, keep the bike on the side stand and when it’s cold so the all the oil is down at the bottom of the case. There is a table in the manual that gives you torque values based on nut size, I believe the bolts on the clutch plate are #6. You’ll need to remove the heat shield and get some 90-min “the right stuff” RTV sealant and coat the new gasket, the gaskets themselves are so thin and basically suck.
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I decided to do premium gas because it doesn't have ethanol. That way I don't have to worry about winterizing as much. Granted, I intend to ride the bike any time this winter I possibly can, so maybe I didn't need to worry about it in the first place.

Mmart, that's super useful, thanks so much.
 

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Changed the oil. Haven't run the bike for than a few dozen feet, but there doesn't seem to be a change in the stickiness of the clutch.
If it's still lurching when you put it in first gear, start adjusting at the hand lever 1/4 turn at a time, counterclockwise.
 
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