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Discussion Starter #1
The oil seal on my final drive was leaking gear oil: lines of gear oil moving around the rear wheel hub like hair pushed out from centrifugal force were clearly visible on the rear hub.

After doing the research here, it seemed practical to have the splines lubed with Moly 60 (and the U-joint sprayed with white lithium grease), since in the process of changing the two final drive seals the rear wheel will have been removed and access to the splines would be easily achieved during the oil seal replacement procedure.

I went to my local motorcycle shop in Brooklyn, NY and the following was their estimate (I'll include the part #'s and cost for those interested in ordering these parts to do the job themselves):

1) Repair: Front and Rear Spline lube, Spray U joint with lithium grease and replace final drive seals. RATE: 92.50/hr HOURS/QUANTITY: 6 hours AMOUNT: $555.00

2) PART: 671B25145 O Ring AMOUNT: $14.67

3) PART: 92049A 92049-1212 SEAL-OIL,S75 9510 AMOUNT: $22.35

4) PART: Moly-Lube PASTE(GREASE) AMOUNT: $13.78

5) PART: WHITE LITHIUM GREASE AMOUNT: $13.78

6) PART: Drive Shaft 80W90 OR 90W GEAR OIL: AMOUNT: $13.78

Before this estimate was given to me, I discussed the procedure with the head mechanic, going over points made in the vulcan verses, and gave her a copy of highlighted directions printed out from vn750.com.

I have not gone through with the procedure but have ordered all the parts. While I understand the mechanic's rate to be high, should this procedure honestly take 6 hours? And if not, how long should it take for a motorcycle shop to achieve the final drive oil seal replacement and spline lube? Is it possible that this 6 hour estimate comes from the mechanic thinking she needs to remove the entire final drive in order to hit the front spline with Moly Lube? Because I could just give her a toothbrush and directions from the vulcan verses on hitting the front spline with Moly and not having to take apart the whole sha-bang. Opinions?

I would do this repair myself but I live in industrial Brooklyn so doing repairs is difficult on the filthy streets. I'm also ill equipped to make such a repair at this time, and my priority this summer is to rack up some miles: so I took the bike to a mechanic.

Any and all opinions, or further directives to give the mechanic is greatly appreciated, and thank you in advance.

Wheel

PS: the information I learn here will ultimately inform my "Yelp" review of this particular shop in NYC. I'll link this site in that review, and forward it to the mechanic, as well.
 

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Seems high to me. When my son bought new tires, the guy who mounted them lubed his spline for free. I do not it taking see 6 hours. Check around.
 

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I am mechanically inclined, but by no means extremely experienced with working on motorcycles when I bought this bike.

Took me 2 hours to lube splines, and that is including the 30 minutes it took me to drive the rear wheel to the shop to have the new tire mounted.

My two cents- do it yourself, or swing by my place in NJ and I'll do it for ya/show you how to do it
Good Luck
 

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You are right. By the time the final drive is removed to replace the seal, the splines are wide open and waiting for some moly. The front area can be accessed through the rubber cover, so basically you are paying for the labor of replacing the seal. Paying for a full can of white lithium grease, unless you are keeping it, seems a little over the top too. I'd bargain with her and ask her to let you back there for 5 minutes while they have the final drive off so you can dab some moly in the collar and squirt some white lithium grease on the front u-joint. And see what she'll charge just for the seal job. Shoot, for that matter, you can roll it outside and fill the final drive with gear oil before you take off.
I agree it is a bit on the expensive side for a quote.
 

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I wouldn't pay over $285.00 to have it done by the shop. I would give them 2 1/2 hour labor, plus the O-ring and seal, and maybe $15.00 for the grease and oil ( they are only using a small amount) JMO
 

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I'm serious about bringing it to me to do it for you. I don't mind.

Besides, I already have the white lithium grease. ;P
 

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for that kind of money you could take a ride to ohio and I'd do it for you and ride back and you would have a bunch of money left. take a short trip to kid chaos! its an easy job and youd be riding again in a few hours!
 

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Plus, you'll have learned how to do it next time!
 

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After reviewing the instructions on the final drive seal replacement, I see that it is not the seal I thought. Now, I am going to amend my statement here by saying, I certainly understand where the 6 hours labor estimate comes from now.

Having said that, I am still willing to try this out, and in fact am looking forward to it for the experience of pulling apart the final drive.

I am going to price out the cost of the special tools required for this, and try and figure out if this is beyond my ability. I really don't think it is and I would not hesitate to do this on my own bike, but since I am not a mechanic and this is not my bike I want BikeWheel to understand that I have not actually gone this far into the final drive before.


Furthermore, if you don't trust me to do this job, I understand, but then I would suggest we still take the final drive off, do the spline lube and o-ring seal replacement ourselves. Then bring it in to the shop for seal replacement. You will def save a couple hundred dollars by doing it this way.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So here's the situation:

A) I'm cruising to Cape Cod on Wednesday the 18th so I'm shooting to have the repair completed before then.

B) I will have the moly 60, white lithium grease, the O ring, the seal, and the gear oil all together by tomorrow. I purchased these through a KAW dealer in Brooklyn for about $100 all told.

C) The mechanic has come down to 3 hours labor as opposed to 6, and she already has the special tools for doing the seal replacement. Total cost would run about $300 for the repair. After her shop had diagnosed the problem and given me the estimate I told her assistant that I would be posting the estimate online to see if it was in fact fair. The next day this mechanic called me twice, I suspect because she didn't want any negative attention due to the estimate being online. I called her back, and she came down to doing the job for three hours pay, even if the repair took longer.

D) I'm not even sure if the problem is not just the O ring. The seal could be fine. I simply don't trust this woman. Her attitude is such that if she'd be replacing the O ring, why not switch out the seal as well, just to be safe (not thinking about the ultimate cost for her costumer). Yet there's no way for me to tell for sure.

E) I am totally sold on the idea of giving this a shot with KChaos and Flaco. I love learning about the bike, and feeling that empowerment of actually understanding this machine propelling you 70MPH across the concrete.

So given my time constraint, maybe we just do the O-ring and lube, and then I can have my mechanic do the seal. I'll give the mechanic a call tomorrow to see what she would charge for only replacing the seal, because it may be the same price since the seal seems to be the most time intensive job, the O-ring and lube just completed along the way. In that event, despite wanting to crack open the final drive with a fellow vn750-er, it may be reasonable to just have the whole job completed at the shop.

On the other hand, if you guys think we could nail this job -- O-ring, seal, and lube -- this weekend let's say, then screw it, I'm willing to take the risk, learn about the bike, and contribute detailed photographs of the procedure for the benefit of this forum which has already helped me out so much.

Thoughts and considerations? I'll let you know if she comes down in price for only doing the seal, too. Thanks -
 

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yeah, I can do this saturday.

I'm also gonna call my local shop and see about having a back up plan, just drive the final drive, off the bike into them and see what they woulod charge to replace the seal.

Otherwise, we could def do the spline lube and o-ring this saturday and see how cracking into the final drive looks when we have it off the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Okay, so I just spoke with my mechanic and asked about doing the seal only. It would still be 3 hours, and the same price I have now. I asked what of this bearing they would have to remove, and they said yes, there would be a chance of damaging it, in which case they would have to order the new part - very frustrating.

The bearing itself runs about $15.00 bucks. And if ordered today, expedited shipping, it would arrive maybe Tuesday but not a chance for Saturday.

So I think the reasonable person would call it quits and bring the bike into the shop and have them do the job at what is now a reasonable rate (3 hours). But that doesn't seem like very much fun.

Want to do the O ring and spline lube this Saturday, but not the seal because should we break that bearing I'd have to miss my trip on that following Wednesday. But upon my return, after doing more research and getting the appropriate tools, we give a go at attacking that seal with the bearing in question two weekends from now? Let me know what you guys think on Saturday = O ring and spline lube; two weeks from now = crack open the final drive and seal replacement. Could be an experience.

If all parties are still interested, should I go ahead with ordering the bearing so that my bike isn't laid up at KidChaos' should we destroy the bearing in the seal replacement two weeks from now? If we didn't damage that bearing I could handle the $15 dollar cost of having an extra bearing considering the money saved on the entire repair.
 

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I'm in a position to start this same process. The special tool listed in the manual (57001) looks just like a slide hammer. Is there anything special about pulling/installing the 52049 oil seal I should know about?
 
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