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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I recently did some work on my 91 vn750. After putting everything back on the bike I went to start i t and was getting no spark in all cylinders. I checked the IC ignitor and traced the problem back to a loose stator wire. I repaired the problem and then the bike started..... for a few seconds and then cut out. I checked both coils, stator, IC ignitor with an electricla tester and they all were within the listed limits in the clymer manual. I pulled the from spark plugs and still am getting no spark. The rear are working just fine. Any suggestions would be helpful.
 

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The Professor
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Hello, I recently did some work on my 91 vn750. After putting everything back on the bike I went to start i t and was getting no spark in all cylinders. I checked the IC ignitor and traced the problem back to a loose stator wire. I repaired the problem and then the bike started..... for a few seconds and then cut out. I checked both coils, stator, IC ignitor with an electricla tester and they all were within the listed limits in the clymer manual. I pulled the from spark plugs and still am getting no spark. The rear are working just fine. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Have you checked your pick up coils? But it is probably your Tach. disconnect the tach in the HL bucket then start the bike. The tach. runs off the front coil and if there is a problem with the tach. it will affect the coil. :smiley_th
 

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Sparky!!!
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not another not firing issue...god I hate these...50 bucks and I will walk ya through it...lol..j/k...try that first link then get back to us... also what have you done to the bike...the most common problem with a cyl not firing is due to the pickup coils, or the wires coming out of the engine from the pickup coils.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the responses. I have put a new generator gasket on, new handlebars, degoated and fixed several issues (missing screws, hoses, incorrect rebuilds, new air filters, ignition coils, and several o-rings). It was definitely more work than I was hoping. Anyway, I tried the tach disconnect and noticed my battery is also dead (probably form trying to get it to start). I did get spark with disconnecting the tach, so any ideas on what the problem is (possibly a lose wire or connection). The engine still would not start. I am hooping to charge the battery up overnight and give her a shot in the morning.

Thanks

Phil
 

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The Professor
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Thanks for the responses. I have put a new generator gasket on, new handlebars, degoated and fixed several issues (missing screws, hoses, incorrect rebuilds, new air filters, ignition coils, and several o-rings). It was definitely more work than I was hoping. Anyway, I tried the tach disconnect and noticed my battery is also dead (probably form trying to get it to start). I did get spark with disconnecting the tach, so any ideas on what the problem is (possibly a lose wire or connection). The engine still would not start. I am hooping to charge the battery up overnight and give her a shot in the morning.

Thanks

Phil
Our scoots need a fully charged battery to start, If you have a standard battery throw it away and get an MF AGM battery, I will post a link below. Also ditch your standarg plugs an get NGK DPR7EIX-9 IRIDIUM plugs. The combination of the two your scoot will start right up!

With that out of the way lets get to the Tach issue, By the way the Info. is FREE but the solution will cost ya!! You can check the Tach wires but the problem is probably inside the Tach and is not servicable. :doh: You will have to replace the Tach!! :doh: contact Crobins365 She should have a Tach for sale. At the top of the page click search in the find member box type in Crobins365 and send her a Private Message. :smiley_th I would send you to Battey Mart but they are out of stock due to high demand. Advance Auto Parts also carries this battery under a different name, ask for ETX15L they are all made by East Penn Manufacturing. Man I cant't wait for my commision check!! I wish!!
 

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Phil,
If your local battery warehouse is out of batteries like lance said, and you don't want to pay for shipping, check out your local lawn and garden dealership or atv dealership. That is where I got mine in less than a week.
 

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The Professor
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Phil,
If your local battery warehouse is out of batteries like lance said, and you don't want to pay for shipping, check out your local lawn and garden dealership or atv dealership. That is where I got mine in less than a week.
Hey Gus, can you go down the street and tell East Penn to send Battery Mart their shipment ASAP!!!! LOL I need that commision check!!!!!!!!! :doh:
 

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Lance
DO you work at the battery warehouse- I work at a Kubota dealership and the Deka man comes usually once a week. I had no problem getting my battery. Good luck with that.
 

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The Professor
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Lance
DO you work at the battery warehouse- I work at a Kubota dealership and the Deka man comes usually once a week. I had no problem getting my battery. Good luck with that.
No. I just push their product. :rockon:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Disconnected tach, had front spark and then lost it. We checked front coil and fuses, problem still exsists any other suggestions?
 

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The Professor
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Disconnected tach, had front spark and then lost it. We checked front coil and fuses, problem still exsists any other suggestions?
Check your pickup coils, you probably have a broken wire inside the timing mark cover or from outer cover to the connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
O.k., I checked the pick up coils and they are connected and tight. I verified with an analog voltmeter and the clymers manual. When I originally disconnected the tach and got front spark, the I.C. ignitor was clicking (like a baseball card in a bicycle spoke). Since then I have received no spark in front coil. I checked the black wire from the I.C. ignitor to the front coil and the splice in the black wire to the tach (just in case a short in the wire) with no breaks in the wire. I jumped from the I.C. ignitor to the front coil with a new wire and still no spark. I checked the red wire form the I.C Ignitor to the front coil and had no breaks\shorts. rear coil has spark at all times. I also checked the fuses to verify no broken fuses. The tach has been disconnected the entire time of testing. A couple of questions:

1. Is it possibly the regulator\rectifier, nothing I have found in the manual would point this way

2. Do the 3 yellow and black wires coming out of the stator need to be connected in a particular order to the ones coming off the R\R

3.Could it be the fuse box--again, nothing I have seen would point this way

Is it possible I am chasing 2 electrical gremlins, 1 in the tach and then burning out the I.C. ignitor while trying to start the bike after disconnecting the tach. (sorry my question mark key is out--my computer was probably built by the same guy who designed the electrical system)

I appreciate everyone who has taken time to help me with this problem. I feel i work on the bike more than I ride it.



Phil
 

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The Professor
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If ignition coils and pick-up coils are fine and the Tach is OK, it is probably your Igniter. R/R and stator will not cause this problem. If it was the JB you would not get spark to any cylinder. I would say you have a bad Igniter.
 

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The Professor
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Are you getting a constant 12v to the red coil wire w/ignition on? :beerchug:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Does anyone know how to test the wiring in the tach. I am going to pull it apart and look but I was hoping for a way to test it prior to opening.
 

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The Professor
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Does anyone know how to test the wiring in the tach. I am going to pull it apart and look but I was hoping for a way to test it prior to opening.
do you have a clymer manual?
 

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The Professor
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Yes I have the clymer manual, my friend has borrowed it
In the electrical section it tells you how to test the tach. :beerchug:
 
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