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Discussion Starter #1
So...I was out riding all day today and on the way back to my house, every time I would let go of the throttle i would here a loud "click" like something was getting caught. I stopped to look at the bike and saw/heard nothing. Went to drive away and the problem was gone. A couple miles down the road I was accelerating after a stop sign and all of a sudden lost ALL power to the rear tire. I can turn the bike on and the engine runs like a champ. Once i shift into first gear, I hear a bunch of clatter coming from either the back hub or where the shaft connects into the engine. This clatter happens regardless if the clutch is in or out and the sound gets louder with more gas. No power comes to the rear tire all i get is the clatter instead.

Not sure what to do. Fix, sell, cry? lol

Any help is appreciated.
 

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1986 VN750
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3,255 Posts
That sounds like your drive shaft splines have failed. This happens if they were not lubricated properly.

They're not really difficult to replace, but can run $200-$250. I have one I can sell for $200+shipping that's in good shape. I also see a few for $250 on eBay as well.

Here is a write-up on replacement/maintenance of it. http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17274
 

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Senior Member
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2,502 Posts
Yes, there is always a little tension on the drive train even with the clutch pulled in. Your drive splines are shot.....$10 worth of grease and 1/2 hr. would have kept that from happening. Sorry for the news.
 

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2000 VN 750 Senior Member
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2,494 Posts
So...I was out riding all day today and on the way back to my house, every time I would let go of the throttle i would here a loud "click" like something was getting caught. I stopped to look at the bike and saw/heard nothing. Went to drive away and the problem was gone. A couple miles down the road I was accelerating after a stop sign and all of a sudden lost ALL power to the rear tire. I can turn the bike on and the engine runs like a champ. Once i shift into first gear, I hear a bunch of clatter coming from either the back hub or where the shaft connects into the engine. This clatter happens regardless if the clutch is in or out and the sound gets louder with more gas. No power comes to the rear tire all i get is the clatter instead.

Not sure what to do. Fix, sell, cry? lol

Any help is appreciated.
First thing to do is to take some time to read the Vulcan Verses. You have been a memaber since 2011 and with only 29 posts. You need to take advantage of the information offered here to avoid these costly problems. The fact that you could have read about the potential problem and found out how to avoid it a long time ago saving time and money is what you should be crying about. Live and learn but I hope you do spend some time reading the ten things you should know soon and help yourself from these problems.The VN 750 is a great bike but like anything it takes a little maintenance to keep it running correctly. $10 worth of grease that will last multiple spline upkeeps and a half to one hour of your time vs. what you have now.........priceless.
 

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Prowling Tiger
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2,048 Posts
Yes, there is always a little tension on the drive train even with the clutch pulled in. Your drive splines are shot.....$10 worth of grease and 1/2 hr. would have kept that from happening. Sorry for the news.
Not if they were already on their way out it wouldn't. Don't judge what you don't know.

Just a heads up OP, expect to be corned like some helpless animal by other members because you didn't take care of your splines correctly.
 

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36 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Just so you all know who think i haven't read any posts. I greased the splines two years ago the second week I bought the bike. Used Honda Moly to grease it. That's where my confusion is. With that being said, do we still think its the splines?

Dan
 

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Prowling Tiger
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2,048 Posts
Just so you all know who think i haven't read any posts. I greased the splines two years ago the second week I bought the bike. Used Honda Moly to grease it. That's where my confusion is. With that being said, do we still think its the splines?

Dan
Yes, mine failed under near identical conditions; however, mine were never lubed.

Get that tire off and you'll know for certain.
 

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Headbanger/Popes of Hell
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6,679 Posts
the problem is not what DP did or didn't do, it's what is he going to do! no use crying over spilled milk. you need to pull the rear wheel and see if in fact, if that is the problem (splines). I too, believe it is.
so first things first. pull the wheel. then if the is in fact the problem, do what you have to do to get the bike back on the road. there are more than enough members here to help you out. and what I mean by "help", is not bashing the guy for what he didn't do to get to this point!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I would like to pull the rear tire, but do not trust myself on doing a job like that. So if I fix it i will need a tow to the shop, and then also pay to have it fixed. This can get expensive....
 

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Headbanger/Popes of Hell
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6,679 Posts
I would like to pull the rear tire, but do not trust myself on doing a job like that. So if I fix it i will need a tow to the shop, and then also pay to have it fixed. This can get expensive....
well you could do that. you're right, that could get expensive.

as for doing it yourself....it's really not that hard. there is a really good "walk through" on the forum (some where lol). it's really not that hard. if you take your time it would take you about 2hrs at most. I was very nervous the first time I did it, but with the help of the "walk through" (that I printed out), it was not bad at all. I've done it 2 times now and I'm just about to do it again, to lube the splines. :smiley_th
 

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1986 VN750
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3,255 Posts
I would like to pull the rear tire, but do not trust myself on doing a job like that. So if I fix it i will need a tow to the shop, and then also pay to have it fixed. This can get expensive....
This is a really easy fix brother man. Follow the thread I linked and you can have it off in about 30 minutes or less. I could do it in like 5 minutes now that I am familiar with the process. It really is that easy.

:beerchug:

Everything you need to do it, and a full picture walk-through, is here: http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17274

If your splines failed after a lube a few years ago then the o-ring may have been bad, allowing the grease to escape over time. Unfortunate! Make sure to replace the o-rings when following the procedure if you put another final drive in.

$200 part and 2 hours of work, or $800 mechanic bill. I'd go with the $200 part!
 

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Old Truck Junkie
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4,133 Posts
It is pretty much the same procedure as lubing the splines. The diff is that you will have to replace the coupler. And with the right snap ring plier it should not be that hard to remove it. Go for it. Don't remove the exhaust to remove the axle, undo the shocks this allows the wheel to move up and clear the muffler.
 

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Prowling Tiger
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2,048 Posts
Dan, I felt the same way when mine went out; however, I had an extended warranty, which I opted not to use, which would have covered the work; However, I didn't want to wait 5+ weeks for the shop to take my bike in and I really wanted to ride! Plus, it gave me time to perform the ear-shave mod (highly recommended if you haven't done it yet!).

Removing the coupler is not hard, just time consuming if you don't have the right tool to remove the snap ring. Don't use the snap-ring tools with interchangeable tips, the head tends to take up too much space and makes the job a PITA.

I saw your for sale ad and you'll be losing a lot of $$$ for having a shot rear-end. I think someone here already offered a good used rear-end for $200 which is a hell of a lot cheaper than buying a new unit for a grand. I went this route with M-Angell by trading most of the stock parts I removed from my bike. Maybe you could do the same. Pull some stuff off to trade + cash for a good rear-end.

You only need about 15 -20 minutes to pull the rear tire off to get access to the coupler; and depending on the snap-ring tool, the coupler should come off real easy. If I had to do it again, I could have the rear-end off and swapped and put back together within an hour.

Now, go drink some liquid courage and tear into that beast!

:beerchug:
 

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7,650 Posts
Dan, if money is a factor, you can get those parts for a lot less than has been quoted in this thread. All you have to do is search Ebay, and if the prices aren't there now, they will be.

In the Sell/Swap section and this Transmission section, I've made replies to members in the same situation as you with links to parts much lower in cost. Maybe around $25-30 for a driveshaft and $100 for a complete rear gear assembly.

The job isn't really bad, it can take longer to read about it than to actually lube the splines. You just have parts to replace is the only difference.

I would bet you only need to replace the driveshaft, or just the coupler if you want to go that route, it's softer than the drive pinion shaft so it gets destroyed and the other side survives.

I would put it up on the center stand, get the back wheel off the ground, then spin the wheel by hand. Feel, listen, and try to determine which end of the driveshaft is making the noise. I would not try running the engine any more.
 

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2000 VN 750 Senior Member
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2,494 Posts
I would like to pull the rear tire, but do not trust myself on doing a job like that. So if I fix it i will need a tow to the shop, and then also pay to have it fixed. This can get expensive....
So this puts you back to square one, fix, sell or cry. If you fix it yourself you save money and time and get back on the road. If you decide to sell you loose your ride and have to sell cheap because the bike is not in good condition. I would go with the fix it yourself. You will gain some experience and confidence plus save yourself a whole lot of money. This seems like a win/win situation to me. If you run into a problem you can come back and ask any questions and you will get more help. Look over the video and print the step by step directions. Read them several times and then give yourself a chance to get it done. Maybe there is another member close that may be willing to help you. Check out the member's map.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So if i decide to fix it, 1st, what parts exactly do you think I will need? Second, although it sounds like the splines/driveshaft could it still be something different? Basically, in order to really know what is wrong I am going to have to remove the rear end, take a look to diagnose, and put it back together while waiting for parts to arrive...and as previously stated, I would not feel comfortable tearing into the rear end myself. The last thing i want to happen is have the rear end apart and not being able to get it back together the right way...
 

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Prowling Tiger
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2,048 Posts
So if i decide to fix it, 1st, what parts exactly do you think I will need? Second, although it sounds like the splines/driveshaft could it still be something different? Basically, in order to really know what is wrong I am going to have to remove the rear end, take a look to diagnose, and put it back together while waiting for parts to arrive...and as previously stated, I would not feel comfortable tearing into the rear end myself. The last thing i want to happen is have the rear end apart and not being able to get it back together the right way...
If the splines are shot, you will need a replacement final drive (either the whole unit [easier] or replace the internal gears assy [harder]), a new spring (which should come with replacement unit), a new coupler, and maybe a new snap-ring (depends on how rusty things are). Other than that, maybe a new cotter pin for rear axle (I was able to remove and reuse several times).

Get some moly grease too. Lower % moly will require more frequent lubings. You can use bearing grease, just need to relube splines more often.
 
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