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I'm getting ready to do the spline lube. I'm expecting the new O-rings to arrive in a few days. I have everything else prepared. I have the bike on the center stand right now. I went out and started the engine today to let it warm up and run for a little while. When its sitting cold, the oil level looks good. It's close to High. I start the engine and it drops completely out of sight. I feel like that should be expected, as its cold and then is pulled to circulate. But I let it sit idling for about 15 minutes, and it was well warmed when I went back out to shut her down. I checked the oil level again before shutting her down and the window was still clear. No oil showing. The oil light never came on. After I shut it down, the oil level slowly started to rise to about half way. Is this normal? At what point do check the oil level for the actual measurement?

Im going to just change the oil too. I'll use the Shell 10W40 everyone here talks about. It was perfect when I got it, but I had the MC shop change the oil after about a month and the Coffee grinder started soon after. I know it's common, but it didnt do it at all when I first got it.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also, for the spline lube, this may be a dumb question. I didnt see it in the instructions, but it could be because it goes without saying... but do I need to drain the differential fluid before removing the final drive?
 

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It's normal for the sight glass to go dry while running. I forget the exact procedure for checking the oil level, but I just check it before startup and allow some room for expansion. You can download Owner's and Repair manuals from links in my signature.

You may also notice that after running a couple of minutes, the oil looks milky in the sight glass, like it has water in it. This is normal, and caused by air bubbles in the oil. It goes away once warmed up.

Don't need to drain the grease from the final drive for the spline lube.

Coffee grinder - The shop may have had the engine running just before you picked the bike up. Coffee grinder occurs when cool.
 

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What do you mean by download from your signature? Where did you sign and where do I find this ?
 

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What do you mean by download from your signature? Where did you sign and where do I find this ?
One's "signature" is the information that shows at the bottom of each post.

At this point for me it's the "uncle Bob" quote.
I intend to add other stuff later. It can be done at your profile page or related pages.

At the bottom of every one of Spockster's posts are two links for the manuals.
Click on them to go for downloads.
 

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Ok, that's good news then! So as soon as I read your response...I ran out and took her for a ride. It was 48 degrees today and it's been 3 weeks since I've ridden. So I had to take advantage of the tolerable temperature. But once I knew the oil level was good, I went out. I did expect the oil level to settle a bit as it warmed up. So that's interesting to find that out. Thanks for the response and for the links.

This is my first motorcycle. Do you check a MC tire pressure with the same tools as you would any old car tire? Can I just go to a gas station and use the air pump to check the pressure and fill as needed?

Ok, so it's a 2004 with 4300 miles. I'm not expecting the splines to be well lubed, but I also dont think I'll find a lot of wear on them. Im a bit nervous about the project but I'm sure I'll figure it out. I plan to take a video of the process to put up on youtube. I have no intention of pretending I'm an expert, but I think it would help to see someone inexperienced running into the unexpected problems that a newb would experience. And taking note of the info a master might take for granted.
 

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yes, tire pressures are done the same as a car, although, the rear stem can sometimes be hard to get a gauge or air hose on, due to the small clearance.

its not the 'wear' thats the problem with the splines, its the rust that forms when they dont have proper lube. that in turn causes more wear
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I hear ya. I've been looking on ebay just in case... just to see what's available to me should I find a worst case. I knew rust was a concern, but I guess I thought I'd only need to replace the final drive or shaft if the teeth were worn.

We'll see, I'll post pics when I get in there and ya'll can chime in on the condition if I have any doubts.
 

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when I had to do mine (2005 that had 30k +) I looked and looked for an 'affordable' coupling (the part on driveshaft that wears) and was able to find a complete driveshaft for 1/2 the price of just a new coupler. I also did need to replace the rear bevel, they do tend to wear out at the same time..

I also did the full driveshaft replacement because it takes a pretty 'special' snap ring plier to get the snap ring out. I didnt have one like that, and since it was still cheaper to get the full driveshaft than a coupler and the the plier (which by themselves is not expensive).

as I said, wear will occur normally, but with lube its pretty minimal. however, when there is no lube, and they start to rust, you might as well put the splines and coupler on a grinding wheel. they wont last long
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Right on man. Thanks for the reply. I just did the lube job this afternoon. And it looked like someone took the time to lube it before. Although there wasn't much Molly in the coupling, it certainly wasn't dry. And the o-ring looked beautiful on the final drive, but I replaced it with the new one anyway. I left the coupling on since the teeth looked perfect. I did pull the drive shaft off the front splines and put molly on that, even though it said it wasn't necessary. And I sprayed the U joint down with the WL grease I bought. Everything went smoothly except I had to take the right muffler off. It only took 2 extra minutes but it was absolutely in my way. I couldn't see a way around it. Ok, here was my only problem:

I had trouble getting the axle nut back on. It would NOT go on smoothly. There was WAY too much resistance. So I couldn't torque it because I couldn't tell if it was just the thread resistance. So I tightened it as much as I could and then backed it off until the wheel could spin freely. I immediately purchased a replacement axle shaft and nut off of ebay. It'll take a week to get here. I test drove it around the neighborhood, only in 1st and 2nd gear and it feels perfectly normal. What do you think? I got it into position, the wheel spins freely, the rear brakes are working, and the cotter pin is in place. Its definitely not less than 80 ft-lbs. I just dont know if its TOO tight. Like I said, i backed it off until there was no resistance on the wheel's spin. Should be safe, right?

I wonder if I damaged the bolt threads when I was removing it. I can't imagine though because I was using a rubber mallet. But it's possible. It came off smoothly though. So something HAD to have happened after I removed it.

These pics are what I found when I opened it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I didn't take enough after-shots. I only have two. The picture of the coupling is only partially filled. I put one more teaspoon in after this picture. I hope it was enough. It was certainly much more than it had before. I did coat the splines on the final drive, but didnt take a pic. My hands were a mess. I took a picture of the other side of the drive though. I also took the snap-ring off of the wheel and cleaned and lubed inside the wheel - per the addendum instructions.
 

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those splines and coupler look great.

the large spline needs VERY little grease on it. if you over grease it, the grease will fling out all over the rear rim when it get warm. if you doubt me, ask me how I know!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
LOL...do I need to ask? 😂

So...compared to the time you put too much on...how much did I put on? Will it cause any harm? Do you recommend I go back in and clean some off?
 

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I would clean most of it off.. basically just a thin film. there is no movement between the large spline (that goes to rear wheel) and the spline in the rear wheel. the grease is there more to keep the parts from becoming one with each other over time.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok, so the new rear axle shaft off of ebay came in yesterday. I went back in there and cleaned most of the molly off the rear wheel. The new axle shaft went on like butter. Torqued it to 80 ft lbs. I used the same cotter pin, which is a bit mangled by now. So I'll have to get a new one, but that'll be a quick 2 minute thing. I rode it to work today, which is a good 70 miles there and back and it felt lovely. Well... nothing fell apart anyway. 😁

I just ordered a set of kevlar clutch plates today. I have a really bad case of the coffee grinder syndrome. So I'm going to do the drill procedure. It lurches pretty badly - along with the sound - from 1st. I want that to end. I figured I'd put in new friction plates as well since I'll be in there anyway. And they come with the heavy duty springs. New set off of ebay for $115. I bought a new clutch cable too. The spring on the lower end looks corroded. It almost looks like the way bad battery contacts get. That kimd of white and green corrosion. I wondered if that's an indication of the cables integrity. So, plenty of research to do first, but I'll have the parts on hand.

Off the top of your head, I put k&n air filters in. With greater airflow, are there any other adjustments I need to consider and check? I didnt do the mod. I just bought air filters that fit the stock assembly. No rush on answering. I'll search the forum too. If this is something discussed a thousand times before, don't bother answering. I'll find it. But def weigh in on the other stuff I said if you want. Im new to MCing, so I value your input immensely.
 

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Ok, so the new rear axle shaft off of ebay came in yesterday. I went back in there and cleaned most of the molly off the rear wheel. The new axle shaft went on like butter. Torqued it to 80 ft lbs. I used the same cotter pin, which is a bit mangled by now. So I'll have to get a new one, but that'll be a quick 2 minute thing. I rode it to work today, which is a good 70 miles there and back and it felt lovely. Well... nothing fell apart anyway. 😁

I just ordered a set of kevlar clutch plates today. I have a really bad case of the coffee grinder syndrome. So I'm going to do the drill procedure. It lurches pretty badly - along with the sound - from 1st. I want that to end. I figured I'd put in new friction plates as well since I'll be in there anyway. And they come with the heavy duty springs. New set off of ebay for $115. I bought a new clutch cable too. The spring on the lower end looks corroded. It almost looks like the way bad battery contacts get. That kimd of white and green corrosion. I wondered if that's an indication of the cables integrity. So, plenty of research to do first, but I'll have the parts on hand.

Off the top of your head, I put k&n air filters in. With greater airflow, are there any other adjustments I need to consider and check? I didnt do the mod. I just bought air filters that fit the stock assembly. No rush on answering. I'll search the forum too. If this is something discussed a thousand times before, don't bother answering. I'll find it. But def weigh in on the other stuff I said if you want. Im new to MCing, so I value your input immensely.

Ride it and see how it runs.

Have to be careful not to put too much oil on those filters.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I've been riding it often, and it seems ok I guess. But since it's my first bike and I haven't been at it very long, I wouldn't know what to compare it too. And I put those filters on pretty soon after purchasing it. First thing I did when I bought it was to check them. And when I did, I found they were breaking apart. I was on my honeymoon with the bike, so I bought what I thought would be the best filters for her. But now I don't know how she would've normally run without the added airflow. Ive considered buying a pair of the normal filters and seeing if there's any noticeable difference. I just want to know that I'm getting her max potential power and response and if the airflow affects that. I'll search the rest of the forum today. Thanks for the replies. Im happy we have this forum. 👍
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I see a lot of people thanking for the service manuals. And I've even seen you mention that you posted it in your signature. But I have no idea what that means or where to find it. Is it a download? A link? How do you look at someone's signature to find the link? I didnt want to post this question but it's driving me nuts trying to find it.
 

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I see a lot of people thanking for the service manuals. And I've even seen you mention that you posted it in your signature. But I have no idea what that means or where to find it. Is it a download? A link? How do you look at someone's signature to find the link? I didnt want to post this question but it's driving me nuts trying to find it.
Post #6 of this thread.

You might not see signatures if you're using a phone, or if sigs are turned off in your User CP. Here's the links:

Owner's - http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf

Repair/Parts - http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf
 
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