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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

'85 700. R/R relocated, degoated, shaved.

So, at the end of last season the battery stopped getting a charge, had to jump it a couple times to get home. Parked it in the garage intending to get back to it earlier than I have.

All while cold: Stator tested good. R/R tested good. When I got 2 seasons ago I noted that the connector was pretty badly discolored and corroded, got a replacement connector - didn't take the time to replace due to 'rather be riding syndrome'.

Replaced the battery today. Carefully cut out the old R/R connector, started to solder in the new one in and switched to butt connectors before I lost all sanity.

Turned on key, got lights as normal.

Hit ignition, heard a click in the vicinity of the battery (somewhere in that general area) and then nothing. No lights, no sound, no anything at all.

I've double-checked the wiring to the new R/R connector - it's correct (right colored wires to the right connections).

Fuses are all intact. There is voltage on the red/white wire at the junction box. That's all I've checked since reading a bit on here.

Looking for ideas on what to look at tomorrow when I get back at this. Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks,

Dale
 

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Old Truck Junkie
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Check all the main battery connections. Not that you don't know how to install a batt. Once I installed my batt and did not tighten all the connections well. The bike would sometimes start and other times it would not.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
All connections appear to be good.

I've tracked it down somewhat. Huge draw when the key is in the ON position. Battery voltage goes down to around 8 volts.

I think I've tracked that down to something in the indicator light area. With that connector disconnected there's virtually no draw when the key is turned on (with the light fuses pulled).

Severely drained (but brand new) battery is on the charger now. Will take another stab tomorrow.

Any help is very welcome.

Thanks,

Dale
 

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Make sure that the engine is free to turn. Put bike in high gear and turn rear wheel with clutch ingaged. Also tap starter with light hammer to make sure that the brushes are contacting armature.
 

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Also, check all three grounds, clean and dielectric grease them. Also, behind right side cover (one of the grounds is under there too) check the positive connection to the starter solenoid from the battery. It can get pretty corroded over time. There's a second connection there with two wires that can get corroded too. Don't remember what it is but mine needed cleaning up. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you for your suggestions. Put it in gear and the motor turns fine. Tapped the starter a couple times. Grounds all good, starter solenoid connections good.


With the battery fully charged up I was just getting the click from the solenoid, so I figured I might as well take the battery back and make sure it's good (didn't have them test it when I bought it).

Now, I don't know if the battery was bad to begin with, or if it got fried while I was trying to figure out the issue and drained it quite a bit, but the shop pegged it as bad: no amps to speak of, plenty of volts. They tested a new one and gave it to me as a replacement at no charge.

Brought it home, installed it, turned key, hit start button, bike cranked! Got it started shortly thereafter.

Now:

Getting 13.80 - 14.00 volts on the battery at idle. Goes down to 13.4 or so with more rpm.

About 30 volts on the stator wires. The book checks for stator short/open are both good with a hot stator.

On the R/R terms B and M show infinity to everything. Good.

G to B,M, Ax, and Ax to B do not show readings even close to the book. Very very high resistance, couple three hundred K or so. So I'm thinking R/R is toast. Sound right?

I know there's been some discussion about which replacement R/R is good or bad. Is there any consensus? Anything wrong with going with an OEM (if it's available, haven't started looking yet)?

Thanks again for any help,

Dale
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok. New R/R installed. With all fuses in (but headlight disconnected) I'm getting 14.3 volts at the battery at idle. With significant rpm I'm getting 13.80 volts. Can't say how much rpm, tach is disconnected.

Is that good enough or do I need to do more digging?

Thanks,

Dale
 
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