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No gears just neutral

6K views 18 replies 9 participants last post by  RakerBill 
#1 ·
Well, after finally having a nice day with no chores to impede me taking a ride, it left me stranded. Pulled up to a stop sign and down shifted to what should have been 1st and I noticed it was in neutral. Won't go to any gear at all. Acts like a limp ****. No indication of it catching any gears anywhere. The neutral light remains on at all times. Bike runs great and sounds great but won't go anywhere now. I suppose I'll see what I can find and fix it and get rid of it after this. Too much bs with this bike and it's sad since when it running it's great and it looks awesome. But I refuse to be stranded and this is the first bike that has ever done that to me that couldn't be fixed on the spot and rode on home.

Sucks~ :BLAM:
 
#2 · (Edited)
#3 ·
Sounds like the spring for the pawl for the shifter strikes again. I was reading about this before, never had it happen to me. Someone will probably chime in on this for you. Good luck, should be a simple fix.
 
#6 ·
Sounds like the spring for the pawl for the shifter strikes again. I was reading about this before, never had it happen to me. Someone will probably chime in on this for you. Good luck, should be a simple fix.
Ok, I have not dismantled anything on the engine myself, BUT if shark is right, I believe this can be an easy fix.
1- Drop the oil
2- remove the left side external shift mechanism cover (with the oil level sight glass in it). Held by 6 cap screws I believe. Be careful with the gasket, but you will probably need a new one to reassemble.

The pawl is reference #13165 in the diagram in the link above.
the spring is ref.# 92081A

Not sure if the spring is likely to be broken or just fallen off.:confused:

I remember reading in an old post that someone built up worn tips on the pawl by welding with a MIG or TIG welder. So check the tips too.

The parts under this cover are the only tranny parts accesible without splitting the engine cases.

I hope it is this spring and not the tie-rod. Much easier repair.:smiley_th
 
#4 ·
Well, I'm a little more settled down now. I'll have to look into both possibilities concerning this issue. What is strange is that when I DO try to shift, it is very very loose but the shift lever does go back to position.

What the heck is the "pawl spring for the shifter"? Looked at the schematic for the shifter on Bike Bandit and didn't see anything called that. But will look again. Thanks

It does feel as though something has either broken or come completely loose.

I have the knawing feeling I'll be pulling the engine. If that is the case this bike will be down for quite some time as honey do's are stacked in front of bike repairs.
 
#7 ·
Well, I'm a little more settled down now. I'll have to look into both possibilities concerning this issue. What is strange is that when I DO try to shift, it is very very loose but the shift lever does go back to position.
What the heck is the "pawl spring for the shifter"? Looked at the schematic for the shifter on Bike Bandit and didn't see anything called that. But will look again. Thanks

It does feel as though something has either broken or come completely loose.

I have the knawing feeling I'll be pulling the engine. If that is the case this bike will be down for quite some time as honey do's are stacked in front of bike repairs.
The fact that the shift lever return to it`s normal postion indicates to me that the tie-rod probably is not broken.
The spring ref# 92081B appears to be the one resisting the shift lever in the diagram.

shark88`s diagnosis is looking even better to me now.:beerchug:
 
#5 ·
I guess my biggest concern is that I'll have to be tearing into the bike so deep. From what I can tell so far, I'll have to pull the engine out just to get to the shifting mechanisms. Unless, someone has some brilliant ideas (which wouldn't surprise me) of getting this done without the huge job.
 
#8 ·
Mine with similar symptoms was as OlHossCanada describes. It was indeed the spring labeled 92081A, and it had just lost its springiness, for lack of a better explanation. While the cover can't come all the way off with everything else in place and some dexterity is needed to do the necessary manipulations with the cover hanging, it is not necessary to move the engine or the shaft.
 
#10 ·
one other thing to check... on the shifter.. make sure you only have about 1/4 inch play in it.. no more than that.. when I say play I mean slideing it in and out of the engine.. there are cerclips that can come off or slide.. you can use a small hose clamp to hold the shifter in place untill you have time to pull the engine.
 
#11 ·
All great information from everyone. Thanks a bunch. I knew my angst would be quelled once I chimed in here.

The whole thing was so weird when it occured. I downshifted to come to a stop and when I started to go again I should have been in 1st gear but looked down and the neutral light was on. Hmmmm, I tried pressing down on the shifter but nothing happened. I could have been worse as I had just got back into the east edge of town from taking a long ride. Got a ride to the house and took the Tahoe and trailer back and loaded her up and brought her home.

I'll always be concerned about long distance rides now though. I was planning a trip to Wyoming in June but I won't be riding the 750 that's for sure.

It'll be a week or more before I can even think of starting on the bike repair. As for "gas" being an issue, I can just stay home and save a bundle since I'm retired. I just go the gym 4-5 days a week but it's only 1.5 miles away so no biggy there.
 
#13 ·
It does sound like the Prawl spring. Not a difficult fix, but you do need a couple of little monkey hands to get in there! The frame prevents the cover from coming all the way off. You have to push it around to get a finger or two in there. I used a needle-nose plier to get the new spring in place. You also can't replace the gasket. Just smear a little oil on it and seal it back up.

Don't forget to drain the oil first!!
 
#15 ·
Um...the transmission cover _will_ come off, unless the frame rail is bent in, with a little careful manipulation and a bit of patience. My first one was a bitch; once I got it out, the next 4 or 5 were a pice o' cake.

Jim
 
#18 ·
Yupper




I saw that cover and that it is the one where the pawl and spring are located but manual says to also remove the final drive cover to make it easier to access. I won't be doing this for another week or so but I like to make sure I have it etched in my mind before ever starting. Seems to make things go smoother, for me anyway. I figure I'll raise it up all the way on my jack so I can sit on my mechanics stool. Having a fused spine creates pain issues but getting it at shoulder level will make the entire job easier.

I might have to invest in a bike table if I keep this bike.
 
#19 ·
I have a question. If the pawl spring is broken, what is returning the shifter back to center?
Is there another spring in there that returns the linkage back to center?
I'm going to have to look at the manual.
 
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