Kawasaki VN750 Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

I am still a NEW Vulcan owner. I have had mine since April and only been 3k with it. Anyway, I don't know HOW OLD the battery is. That being said I drove it 2 weeks ago without issue and turned it off taking the keys out and throwing the kill switch.

It had been on a battery tender for 12V's off and on for 2 weeks prior to this day. I noticed that it was then constantly in charge mode where it would previously go to float mode. When I went to drive her the other day I noticed that NO lights came on even on the HUD. I was assuming it's the battery. I need to pick up a replacement voltmeter and jumper cables as I lost them when I sold my truck. Suggestions of potential issues?

I assumed I would check the battery with the meter first and then jump it and see what happened and check the voltage/whatever at idle to diagnose bad connections draining power? I am out of my area of expertise with this. Thanks! :BLAM:
 

·
Love My Baby
Joined
·
1,165 Posts
When you took the keys out, did you turn the key to the OFF position first? Just wondering if you had a battery drain the whole time you were charging.
 

·
The Professor
Joined
·
3,147 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
812 Posts
Make sure that when you left the bike the ignition switch was in OFF position. This bike has a "PARK" position which leaves the marker lights on. That will drain your battery. The other thing you can do is disconnect the + wire off the battery and put an ammeter in the line to see if there is any current being drained from the battery when the ignition switch is off.

Good luck man,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
The bike was OFF. No lights were on and I did my standard "turn the key all the way to the left with the handlebars locked, remove the key, and push the kill switch" procedure. I will get another battery. Is the Ebay price the best price on the MF AGM battery? Or is it close at Auto Zone or Advance?

You guys also recommended an ammeter? I know ohm-meters and voltmeters somewhat. Is this similar or the same? What would you recommend and where can I get it? Thanks!!!

OH! And it's an '87. If the battery is as fresh as the fluids (looked like they'd NEVER been changed) then I know it's the battery. I do want to ensure that I am not draining power anywhere.

The battery was also warm not hot when I disconnected the charger. Hopefully that was just from where it was charging? I don't know. Again, thanks!
 

·
The Professor
Joined
·
3,147 Posts
You can't buy at Autozone only Advance, make suure it is the ETX15L. It will cost about $18.00 more @ Advance vs. Ebay.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
You can't buy at Autozone only Advance, make suure it is the ETX15L. It will cost about $18.00 more @ Advance vs. Ebay.
With tax it is closer to $19.00. However, it does come with a warranty at the auto parts store. I didn't see anything about that on the ebay site. I will prolly go with the Advance battery. You have to give them your old one or get an additional fee. I haven't understood that.
 

·
The Professor
Joined
·
3,147 Posts
With tax it is closer to $19.00. However, it does come with a warranty at the auto parts store. I didn't see anything about that on the ebay site. I will prolly go with the Advance battery. You have to give them your old one or get an additional fee. I haven't understood that.
They are the same battery and carry a 1 year free replacement warranty from East Penn Manufacturing.

The core charge is for the lead value. :smiley_th
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
So I should just buy it online and save $19? Sounds good to me. I wasn't sure about the warranty or customer service from an Ebayer. Thanks!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,765 Posts
So I should just buy it online and save $19? Sounds good to me. I wasn't sure about the warranty or customer service from an Ebayer. Thanks!
Yes, and the next time you go by a battery store, sell them your old one! Not sure how much MC batteries are worth, but car batteries locally fetch $5-7 locally.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
New developments... I attached my bike to the jumper cables and she fired right up. However, once running she would die and have NO lights anywhere if the cables were removed. Is the battery that dead or is there a short in the ground somewhere that's causing enough power drain to kill the engine?

And I got an analog multimeter. What settings should i be using for testing the system?
 

·
Hoser
Joined
·
118 Posts
I attached my bike to the jumper cables and she fired right up
Was that with the old battery? If so, you are probably going to cause yourself some serious problems.

Go to ebay, buy yourself a factory service manual, read all of it. Do all the electrical system tests after you learn how to use your meter, note the results in the margins.

Chances are, you won't find much wrong, but then you will KNOW whats wrong, how, why, and where to spend those hard earned dollors.

But first, get a new battery.
 

·
The Professor
Joined
·
3,147 Posts
New developments... I attached my bike to the jumper cables and she fired right up. However, once running she would die and have NO lights anywhere if the cables were removed. Is the battery that dead or is there a short in the ground somewhere that's causing enough power drain to kill the engine?

And I got an analog multimeter. What settings should i be using for testing the system?
Battery is dead, set to dc volts when testing the battery. A fully charged battery should read 12.6v, do not continue to run the bike with a bad battery as stator damage can occurr. :beerchug:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Was that with the old battery? If so, you are probably going to cause yourself some serious problems.

Go to ebay, buy yourself a factory service manual, read all of it. Do all the electrical system tests after you learn how to use your meter, note the results in the margins.

Chances are, you won't find much wrong, but then you will KNOW whats wrong, how, why, and where to spend those hard earned dollors.

But first, get a new battery.
Yeah, it was with my old battery. I wanted to see if the bike would at least run and don't really know much about this area of issues. I am betting that the battery is bad and that I may have developed a bad ground in one my new sets of lights. But I won't really know until my Ex has my Boys back and I can work on it. But I ain't in any hurries to get them munchkins outta here.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
100 Posts
The bike was OFF. No lights were on and I did my standard "turn the key all the way to the left with the handlebars locked, remove the key, and push the kill switch" procedure. I will get another battery. Is the Ebay price the best price on the MF AGM battery? Or is it close at Auto Zone or Advance?

You guys also recommended an ammeter? I know ohm-meters and voltmeters somewhat. Is this similar or the same? What would you recommend and where can I get it? Thanks!!!

OH! And it's an '87. If the battery is as fresh as the fluids (looked like they'd NEVER been changed) then I know it's the battery. I do want to ensure that I am not draining power anywhere.

The battery was also warm not hot when I disconnected the charger. Hopefully that was just from where it was charging? I don't know. Again, thanks!
An "ammeter" is an amperage meter. I used a regular ampere gauge like used to be in cars back in the day. Can't find them very often anymore since new cars have such high power consumption. If you can find one, you wire it in line (series) with the battery. In between the battery and ground, or between charging and battery (just make sure you get your polarity right so you can read the meter). If everything is shut off, there should be no reading on the meter. If there is, then you have something drawing current out of the battery.
If you want to buy a good ammeter, you'll pay some bucks. A regular multi-tester often has a very low-current ammeter included as one of the functions. But you can burn one of those up in a hurry if you don't know what you're doing. That's why I got a regular in-dash gauge from an auto-parts store (Napa) way out in a country town--still had one on the shelf.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top