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NEVER TO OLD TO RIDE
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
bought a vulcan 750 really enjoyed it for a week and discovered no charge stator shorted to ground. wow. is anybody still selling or using the tuxedoseven mods?
any ground breaking new ideas to replace it other than engine removal? really love the bike, gotta fix it, addicted already, been a few years since my last bike yamaha 700 maxium. i like the feel and ride of the vulcan so much better hoping to get it fixed asap.....
 

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pulling the engine isnt as bad as it seems. just a lot of nuts and bolts. be sure to take pics as you go. do the balancer dampers while you are in there. i have the bolt to remove the rotor. i will send it and you can send it back when you are done with it. just pm me when you get that far. how many miles and what year?
gcextreme does the plates for the stator. and they are made to fit perfect.

Sent from Motorcycle.com App
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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pulling the engine isn't as bad as it seems. just a lot of nuts and bolts. be sure to take pics as you go. do the balancer dampers while you are in there. i have the bolt to remove the rotor. i will send it and you can send it back when you are done with it. just pm me when you get that far. how many miles and what year?
gcextreme does the plates for the stator. and they are made to fit perfect.

Sent from Motorcycle.com App
x2....ALL very good advice/assistance being offered.....

:smiley_th
 

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NEVER TO OLD TO RIDE
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111 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thank you both I ordered the mod plate from gcextreme as I have read this may happen more than once if you have the bike awhile and after the mod it will be sooooo much easier each time after that. also ordered new stater and regulator , the upgraded good ones not the cheap ones, also rewiring whole circuit as harness is oiley and dirty with 2 sets of splices, will update when done and cruising again. hope to post again on cruising goodtimes soon, thanks
 

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NEVER TO OLD TO RIDE
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thank you please see next quick reply
 

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NEVER TO OLD TO RIDE
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
also mine is a 1999 with 36k on it. got a good deal on it and knew i had to do some tlc but not this surprise but i would not change it, the bike is awesome.
 

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NEVER TO OLD TO RIDE
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
did the tux mod worked great installed electrosport stator and new regulator charges great. still trying to work out all the electrical gremlins. when warmed up at times breaks up falls on its face under load, runs fine half throttle or less let it cool off and good to go again. also had to hold starter button in to stay running let off button and loses spark. i started it and quickly removed the connector off the solonoid so i could hold the starter button in without damaging starter and it ran great. dioids check good in ground circuit from ignitor and grounds and safety switches all good. i unhooked the red white wire to ignitor and ran a new wire from fuse box to ignitor to red white spot. now runs great put alot of miles on it but still breakes up under load after hot. by the way the plain red wire to ignitor and coils has good power i ran new temp wire no help. i did run a new feed to the pos side of both coils directly from fuse box and really made huge improvement on hot starts. i put on a couple used coils tonight and it ran great in garage , going to take it out tomorrow and see if that helps the break up under load gremlin. i also did run some good carb cleaner in a couple tanks of fuel. will post again with any updates. put on a ton of miles since last post man what a fun bike to ride!
 

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im at the rotor part now and need the bolt to take it out if you still have a loaner. that is why I'm not on much anymore but im ready to get back on the road
 

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Chasin' the blacktop
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NEVER TO OLD TO RIDE
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
new coils new ignitor new fuse box new stator new regulator did the coil power wire mod charges great runs great cold drops the rear cylinder out at 3k rpm and higher after warmed up also will not stay running after starter button released unless you jump power to the red white stripe wire on ignitor. none of the parts or mods helped with the rear cylinder dropping or the no spark at all unless starter button held on gonna swap the pick up coils tomorrow to see if that helps with the rear cylinder dropping out any ideas ???
 

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will not stay running after starter button released unless you jump power to the red white stripe wire on ignitor.
One issue at a time. The starter button supplies power directly to the ign coils via the red wire from it. When you release the button, the ign coils evidently have no power. I would test this. Key on/engine off/no starter button and test for bat voltage at the red wires on the ignition coils. If no voltage to one or both coils, I would fix this. The red wire goes from supplying power to both coils to the ignitor.

Ignition switch-Y/R-starter button-R-ignition coils-R-ignitor.

I would not run a jumper to the ignitor R/W, hard telling what that causes.
 

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ass hole extaordinaire
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One issue at a time. The starter button supplies power directly to the ign coils via the red wire from it. When you release the button, the ign coils evidently have no power. I would test this. Key on/engine off/no starter button and test for bat voltage at the red wires on the ignition coils. If no voltage to one or both coils, I would fix this. The red wire goes from supplying power to both coils to the ignitor.

Ignition switch-Y/R-starter button-R-ignition coils-R-ignitor.

I would not run a jumper to the ignitor R/W, hard telling what that causes.
he just did the ignition coil relay mod so he is getting power to the coils but not to the igniter when not holding the start button

ooooh i got an idea if you used the original red wire off of the rear coil for the switched poser to the relay for the coil mod try using a different switched power source the igniter may not be supplying power to the coil wire correctly but it might be proccessing the pick up coil signal properly still
 

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ooooh i got an idea if you used the original red wire off of the rear coil for the switched poser to the relay for the coil mod try using a different switched power source the igniter may not be supplying power to the coil wire correctly but it might be proccessing the pick up coil signal properly still
I will guess that is correct. The bike will run, the ignitor has to be supplying correct pulse.

Good catch.
 

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ass hole extaordinaire
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I will guess that is correct. The bike will run, the ignitor has to be supplying correct pulse.

Good catch.
wtf what is this sheit did we just agree on something omg the world is comming to a fing end chicken little was right :beerchug:
 

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NEVER TO OLD TO RIDE
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
found and fixed. the black white wire on ignitor showed good ground but not so . i ran a new ground to the ignitor pin where black wire was with no diode this time as not needed with sidestand switch jumped anyway. unplugged old bw wire and taped off and grounded the pin directly now the spark is great and starts and stays running after releasing starter button, also engine stopped losing power under load, thanks for all the help.
 

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NEVER TO OLD TO RIDE
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
also the starter button does not supply power to ignition coils, that comes from ignition switch directly unless u do the mod then it comes from junction box. the starter button supplies power to the red white wire on the ignitor as well as the starter relay coil in the junction box. the ignitor needs ground on the bw wire or it will kill the spark, which was what is was doing. it looks first to the sidestand switch for ground, if the stand is up and the switch is good it gets its ground and dont care what position the neutral switch or the clutch starter lock out switch is in. but if the stand is down then no ground , then it looks to the neutral sw or starter lockout switch for ground. if you are sitting idleing in neutral, and the stand is down, it stays running until you try and take off, when you squeez the clutch u give it ground , then u put it in gear and the ground from neutral switch goes away but the clutch squeezed still grounds it, but when u release the clutch lever the ground circuit is opened and now the engine loses spark due to no ground on the bw wire from any of the three possible switches, that way u can sit idleing with stand up or down, just cant take off with stand down.
 

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I am glad you got your bike fixed.


also the starter button does not supply power to ignition coils, that comes from ignition switch directly unless u do the mod then it comes from junction box. the starter button supplies power to the red white wire on the ignitor as well as the starter relay coil in the junction box.
Not sure how to go about this, somebody may have re-wired some stuff on your bike.

The wires to the start button should be R and BK/R. No R/W.

The wires that operate the starter relay in the JB should be BK, Y/G and Y/R. No R/W.

There is a R/W wire from the ignitor, however it is not the original power supply for the ignitor. R is. From the stop/run switch.


the ignitor needs ground on the bw wire or it will kill the spark, which was what is was doing. it looks first to the sidestand switch for ground, if the stand is up and the switch is good it gets its ground and dont care what position the neutral switch or the clutch starter lock out switch is in. but if the stand is down then no ground , then it looks to the neutral sw or starter lockout switch for ground. if you are sitting idleing in neutral, and the stand is down, it stays running until you try and take off, when you squeez the clutch u give it ground , then u put it in gear and the ground from neutral switch goes away but the clutch squeezed still grounds it, but when u release the clutch lever the ground circuit is opened and now the engine loses spark due to no ground on the bw wire from any of the three possible switches, that way u can sit idleing with stand up or down, just cant take off with stand down.
Is is pretty much correct, originally the BK/W wire went to the JB and from there to the various safety switches.
 

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NEVER TO OLD TO RIDE
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111 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
if you check the schematic in the manual you will see that the blk wire coming from the starter switch goes to the jb to supply power to the starter relay. but before it gets there a red white wire taps off it and goes directly to the ignitor box. the red wire that goes to the ig box comes from the ignition switch. hope this helps clear it up.
 
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