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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
Just recently upgraded from my 1985 Kawa 454 LTD to a beautiful 1998 Kawa VN750.

Ive just gotten into riding and will surely be asking all kinds of questions about my Vulcan.
First things first, I need a new clutch ;)

53587
 

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Welcome and congrats on the new bike, I recently upgraded my clutch with a kit from EBC, just curious as to what makes you think you need a new clutch? Is it slipping under load?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well...

When the bike is cold, I can shift through the gears flawlessly, but once it’s at operating temp, it’s almost as if my clutch isn’t disengaging all the way, almost as if when the clutch is in, I’m not clutch, just slipping through the gears.

I tried adjusting both the fine cable adjuster and the barrel adjustment, I’m pretty positive the adjustment is fine.

I have an entire OEM clutch basket, friction plates etc coming in on Thursday... I have no idea what the internals look like but I’ll be sure you update y’all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When I got the bike it was slipping... I replaced the oil with Lucas Preformance 10w40, 3.5ish quarts with a new filter, didn’t seem to resolve the issue. I’m planning to try a different oil when I get the new clutch installed, maybe 15-40 or 20-50?
 

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Well...

When the bike is cold, I can shift through the gears flawlessly, but once it’s at operating temp, it’s almost as if my clutch isn’t disengaging all the way, almost as if when the clutch is in, I’m not clutch, just slipping through the gears.

I tried adjusting both the fine cable adjuster and the barrel adjustment, I’m pretty positive the adjustment is fine.

I have an entire OEM clutch basket, friction plates etc coming in on Thursday... I have no idea what the internals look like but I’ll be sure you update y’all.
I had my adjustments dead on and it still was slipping, especially above second gear. I may have gotten away with just changing the springs but I had it open so I swapped it all out. Big improvement, you’ll be happy when it’s fixed.
 

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When I got the bike it was slipping... I replaced the oil with Lucas Preformance 10w40, 3.5ish quarts with a new filter, didn’t seem to resolve the issue. I’m planning to try a different oil when I get the new clutch installed, maybe 15-40 or 20-50?
The oil you choose needs to be compatible with a wet clutch, there's an alphabet standard on the label. Edit... JASO is the alphabet standard.

"Energy Conserving" oil will make it slip every time, as will any oil with certain friction modifiers.

Using 15w40 Rotella in mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Welp, I started the clutch basket removal last night, the wear on the basket didn't look bad, but the friction plates were surely worn.
When I tried to torque the new basket nut on, I broke a stud.... good thing I have another basket.
So now I'm waiting until I get the tool in to finish the job, of course I'm still waiting on a new gasket anyway!
 

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Welp, I started the clutch basket removal last night, the wear on the basket didn't look bad, but the friction plates were surely worn.
When I tried to torque the new basket nut on, I broke a stud.... good thing I have another basket.
So now I'm waiting until I get the tool in to finish the job, of course I'm still waiting on a new gasket anyway!
I think the torque spec on those bolts is in inch/lbs, so they don't take a lot of torque.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi all,

I just got my clutch back in the bike, but it doesn't seem to want to disengaged, I can shift into first or second, but the clutch cable doesn't feel like it has any tension on it.
Anyone have an idea?
This is my first time replacing a clutch on a bike, not sure if I did something wrong.
I removed the old friction plates & steel plates, replaced the friction plates with EBC Kevlar plates, stacked them correctly back in the basket, put everything back together, new oil, but no clutch tension.

Is there something I missed in this process?
 

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Take pics of the two adjusters and the lever on the crank case so we can see the alignment,
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
53629
53630
53631


Please excuse if it's completely out of alignment, I have been adjusting the cables trying to get it to engage.
 

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No worries, in the first pic, the rib and slot are WAY off, that’s where you need to start. You can unbolt that arm and align it first with the cable loose, the use the center span to take up a bulk of the slack, and then use the adjuster at the handle bar to fine tune it.
When you unbolt it and align it at the crank case, you can feel it by trying to move the lever by hand to make sure it’s starting to disengage it.

Not sure if you have a manual but section 5 covers it in detail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Update: I took the clutch actuator off (where the cable connects) and adjusted it to line up with the mark above it, but I think I turned it clockwise, not counter clockwise.
Now struggling to take the actuator back off LOL
Also, after making that adjustment, the clutch has super tension now, so we're getting somewhere. Still isn't disengaging, stay tuned.
 

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Sounds like you’re on the right path, loosen the cable all the way at the adjusters, which if I’m thinking straight means to actually tighten (clock wise) the screw at the handlebar and the mid span to give the cable slack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Forgot to update the gang here.

Got the clutch cable adjusted, it seems I just had the actuator lever on the cable turned clockwise, not counter clockwise.
Addionally, I drained all of the coolant (brown) and flushed the system -- Bike has been running like a top since yesterday.
Getting new front & rear tires this Friday.

Here's another pic :)

53648
 
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