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New Stator Brand

5K views 18 replies 6 participants last post by  Chris Allunario 
#1 ·
Hello everyone....sorry to bother you guys with another dumb question.

I need another new stator. The cheap brand I purchased has failed. I have a new Mosfitt regulator so I know its not that. Did the blue wire modification. Did the two wire modification. I have checked and double checked all electrical connections. I have a brand new battery. I also have the Tuxedo modification, so replacement won't be so bad. I am just sick of dealing with it.

Tried contacting TPE for rewinding....no luck. I guess the question is: What brand of Stator is considered the best...and what is considered junk?
 
#4 ·
Is ricks any good? I have had a few caltrics fail with a mosfet r/r even after redoing the wiring. I'll pay extra for the ricks but have heard mixed things about them. If I'm not going to get 10k+ miles from it, I'll just stick with caltric and consider the stator a wear item or sell my bike. Replacing the stator every 1000 miles has become exhausting. I'm about to put in my 4th this year
 
#5 ·
I didn't like the reviews on either one when I was looking seven years ago. If I had to get one now, I'd look for someone to rewind it. Was able to find a couple last few times I looked. There's usually a rewind offer on eBay also.

Do you have any of the electrical mods done? That can help with stator life.
 
#6 ·
I don't. Just the shidingen r/r from roadstercycle. Should I do the two wire and blue wire mods? I like the idea of keeping it as stock as possible but if it will extend the stator life, I'll happily do them. They take 5-10 minutes. Doesn't it bypass the cutoff circuit for the clutch and side stand though? I prefer having those even if I rarely need them since I do hop on my bike still half asleep on the way to work occasionally
 
#8 ·
Two wire mod does bypass nanny switches, but also bypasses the start relay in the junction box.

Blue wire can help, it bypasses the headlight relay and if you cut the trigger wire coming from the stator, it removes AC volts from the junction box.

Gremlins in the JB may be killing your stators.
 
#9 ·
I only have the 3 phases coming from the stator. I may try the two mods and see what kind of mileage I get from my next stator. I'm apprehensive of spending $150+ on one if its just gonna crap out in 1000 miles but if I'm confident it'll last 10k I'd happily spend that
 
#11 ·
Does that stator basket rotate? I think not and just the magnet does but I'm noticing the insulation on my stators looks like its rubbing and causing grounds. You can see the insulation gone near the top right of the old stator. I am considering some spray on lacquer on the old ones to test if I can reuse them if its grounded in a similar fashion and if that works I'll be giving all new stators a fresh coat of lacquer on that side.
 

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#12 ·
The stator assembly is stationary.

I wonder if installing isolators, non-conductive washers, would cure a stator shorting to ground? Might require a sleeve of the same material on the mounting screws.

Someone here used insulating washers with the mod plate, maybe it was Jason.

I think the insulation problem occurs where you can't see it, like between the iron base and the windings, down under all the wraps.

But if the iron base was isolated, seems like the problem of grounding couldn't happen. ???
 
#13 ·
I have wondered about this myself, if the stator is truly isolated from the cover how does it short to ground. I assume the vibration and constant reheating play into failure over time. The bolts holding it in place would also need to be non-conductive besides the washers. Electrons are not picky there’ll always find a path to ground if it’s there.
 
#14 ·
I agree with you. A big narrow rubber washer would likely allow the stator to run without any grounding issues even without the insulation present. I would like just go the lazy route and keep it in place with some high temp resistant tie wraps. I'll get some lacquer as test number 1 and then look for something to use as a washer for science and the good of all the vulcan 750 rider everywhere.

I have 3 stators that all look mostly great (connector on one where it had high resistance) besides stripped insulation causing grounding on the inner face that faces the motor. I figure I owe some dicking around for better answers with all the help I've received here.

I just put in a new stator yesterday and did the blue and two wire mods. I was getting around 1000 miles on the previous stators. If I get significantly more, I will be 100% convinced that the AC in the JB or just the headlight relay are the main issues aside from the genius factory mounting spot for the r/r.

Edit: the new stator made it a grand total of around 300 miles... a new low for me. I'm gonna order a ricks and hope for the best. If that doesn't last long, I'm replacing one last stator and selling this bike
 
#17 ·
R/R wires and the 3 AC bullet connectors still look brand new. I'm truly at a loss with this one. Only things I can think of are removing the fan relay, bad battery, or maybe switching to LEDs (although in theory that won't get me anything really). Battery holds a 13V charge but is 2 years old. When I test AC output, I'll try to see if the battery drops below 10 on startup although I know that's tough with a basic multimeter. I just don't like replacing things that aren't bad.

I think I'm gonna try adding some spray on insulation to my next one and maybe going full epoxy coating on my next one
 
#18 · (Edited)
I'd be worried about the insulation ending up in the oil. It may cause heat retention instead of cooling.

This most recent stator should be under warranty, right?

Did find this in a search .. https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/Stator-Rewinding.asp

There's also a Ricky Stator rewind service, not sure if that's the same Rick or not.
 
#19 ·
I have seen both of those and from my understanding Ricky is different from Rick's. I may try to rewind my own but not sure if it's worth the effort now but may be in the winter time. The most recent is under warranty still but I need to check the AC output to verify it's the stator despite all signs pointing to it.

I also ordered a Rick's that should be here this week so I'll swap that one in. I still need to get to the DMV to register 2 or 3 of my bikes as well which would make the vulcan being down a little easier to deal with
 
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