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ExNewbie..Still Learnin'!
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256 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well, finally got a new R/R (thanks or the E-Bay steer Lance :smiley_th) and relocated per Fergy's signature procedure( thanks Fergy :smiley_th ) although left my old one one in place.

Only exception to Fergy's directions was I used all stainless steel hardware with an aluminum strap bar to prevent corrosion. A little more expensive but inhibiting rust was my main concern.

I also backfilled the white connection plug wiring with dielectric grease in each opening to prevent water entry. Hopefully it will work but will likely need to be done on a regular basis. Figured, can't hurt, might help.

Total cost: R/R - $89, SS Hardware - $6, Peace of Mind - Priceless.

:beerchug:
 

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Premium Member
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I'm looking for a piece of heat sink to use for relocating the r/r.
Would a piece of flat aluminum about 1/8" thick fill the bill? If so, PM me.
 

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Premium Member
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5,236 Posts
Go to your local hardware and buy some 1/8" flat aluminum about two inches wide it comes in 4 or 5 foot sticks and is as handy as any thing you can have in your garage,I use it to make brackets and hangers.You can clamp it down in a vice and bend it by hand and it is easy to cut.stack up two or three pieces up and bolt it to back of your R/R and, Instant heat sink, and a very good one at that.you will find all kinds of neat uses for it after you get it and it won't last long,also good stuff to relocate turn signals with.
 

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Premium Member
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Old Truck Junkie
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Well, a while back, I saw a peice of aluminum about the right width with ribbed back. The old age kicked in and I can't member where I saw it. I am going to check at the local radio shack. If I could only member where it was, dang-it!!!! I'm going to call my bro too. I will let you know flitecontrol if I will need material from you thanx.
If I find what I saw I will post a picture. It will work great for this.
 

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Premium Member
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Well, a while back, I saw a peice of aluminum about the right width with ribbed back. The old age kicked in and I can't member where I saw it. I am going to check at the local radio shack. If I could only member where it was, dang-it!!!! I'm going to call my bro too. I will let you know flitecontrol if I will need material from you thanx.
If I find what I saw I will post a picture. It will work great for this.
Scrap yard/junk yard/metal recycler is also a good source for this stuff. Usually happy to swap out aluminum cans for similar amount of flat stock.
 

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Premium Member
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junked out computers have some pretty good heat sinks on the processors too.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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Well, finally got a new R/R (thanks or the E-Bay steer Lance :smiley_th) and relocated per Fergy's signature procedure( thanks Fergy :smiley_th ) although left my old one one in place.

Only exception to Fergy's directions was I used all stainless steel hardware with an aluminum strap bar to prevent corrosion. A little more expensive but inhibiting rust was my main concern.
I also backfilled the white connection plug wiring with dielectric grease in each opening to prevent water entry. Hopefully it will work but will likely need to be done on a regular basis. Figured, can't hurt, might help.

Total cost: R/R - $89, SS Hardware - $6, Peace of Mind - Priceless.

:beerchug:
Just a heads up offered here. You are right about aluminum not rusting, BUT it does corrode. I have pieces of aluminum in my scrap pile with aluminum and steel bolts threaded in, and virtually welded in place by electrolosis between dis-similar metals, (the AL bolts are a slightly different alloy than the Al strap metal). Aluminum will develop a white dusty corroded surface after a lengthy exposure to moisture and weather.

Stainless steel is probably more resistant than either mild or high carbon steel in contact with aluminum. However I would still use some anti-seize compound such as copper-cote or silver-cote, where the two metals touch, as well as between the reg/rec and the aluminum strap.
 

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ExNewbie..Still Learnin'!
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256 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Just a heads up offered here. You are right about aluminum not rusting, BUT it does corrode. I have pieces of aluminum in my scrap pile with aluminum and steel bolts threaded in, and virtually welded in place by electrolosis between dis-similar metals, (the AL bolts are a slightly different alloy than the Al strap metal). Aluminum will develop a white dusty corroded surface after a lengthy exposure to moisture and weather.

Stainless steel is probably more resistant than either mild or high carbon steel in contact with aluminum. However I would still use some anti-seize compound such as copper-cote or silver-cote, where the two metals touch, as well as between the reg/rec and the aluminum strap.
You're right Hoss, I know it will corrode over time but had forgotten about the dis-similar metal reaction. I will antisieze the contact points. Thanks for the advice! :smiley_th
 

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ExNewbie..Still Learnin'!
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Discussion Starter #12
Okay - With my new R/R installed I get 12.5V at the battery terminals with cold engine running at idle, lights on and 13V at 3-4K RPM with lights on. Is that enough or is my stator shot? Should I check it again with a hot engine as I've heard that can make a difference? Any help appreciated.
 

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The Professor
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3,147 Posts
Okay - With my new R/R installed I get 12.5V at the battery terminals with cold engine running at idle, lights on and 13V at 3-4K RPM with lights on. Is that enough or is my stator shot? Should I check it again with a hot engine as I've heard that can make a difference? Any help appreciated.
You should be getting 14.5v @ 4000 rpm. Check the three stator connectors in front of the battery box, make sure they are clean and not melted. Then unplug the R/R connector and start the engine. Set your multimeter on A/C Volts test the three yellow wires, do two at a time testing all three. Write down the voltage, then get back to us. :beerchug:
 

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ExNewbie..Still Learnin'!
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256 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
You should be getting 14.5v @ 4000 rpm. Check the three stator connectors in front of the battery box, make sure they are clean and not melted. Then unplug the R/R connector and start the engine. Set your multimeter on A/C Volts test the three yellow wires, do two at a time testing all three. Write down the voltage, then get back to us. :beerchug:
Will do Lance. Know they are clean and not melted :smiley_th but will measure the AC voltage again and let you know. Thanks. :rockon:
 
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