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Discussion Starter #21
Phew that's good news take them all out and try it again let me know
Ive just taken out all 4 plugs (this time :doh: ) and I'm not sure how much resistance I'm supposed to be feeling. If I crank it reasonably quickly there doesn't seem to be any binding, yet if it turn it slowly it definitely hits a point where its harder to turn - does this tell me anything?

Also, I took out the oil filter cylinder/screen (next to the oil level viewing screen) and found some metal shavings (not lumps or clumps). Im sure this is normal but if not please let me know if otherwise.

Thanks for everyones help so far :)

Thanks,

Pete
 

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There will be -some- amount of resistance as the valves open and close. Certainly nothing on the level as the compression forces you'd feel with the plugs installed.

Can you post a picture of the oil screen?
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
There will be -some- amount of resistance as the valves open and close. Certainly nothing on the level as the compression forces you'd feel with the plugs installed.

Can you post a picture of the oil screen?

Ive never manually turned an engine so I'm not sure if I'm feeling too much resistance or not? Would it be beneficial for me to video it?

Ive attached 2 photos of what came off the screen.

Thanks,

Pete
 

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I don't think he's being sarcastic if them are metal flakes looks like something not right in the engine there is only one way to find out unfortunately and from your vid it looks like you are using a bit of effort to turn it over you should be able turn very easily there will be a slight restriction has you turning the crankshaft over and the piston are moving up and down the bores
 

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Not being sarcastic. Meant to say more earlier but got side tracked. As trev said, those flakes are concerning. Not a good sign at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Ok thanks guys. Not the news I was hoping for but I did take the risk buying a non runner.

I think I might give the bike to a garage to get a full diagnosis of the engine condition - following this maybe I can carry out the repairs myself (depending on what is involved.). I've got a Kawasaki GT 550 engine out on my bench at the moment so I don't have room to take the Vulcan engine out as well.

I'm based in Somerset so miles away from you which is annoying.

Thanks,

Pete
 

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Just put it on the back burner for a bit and even if you take it to a bike mechanic they would need to strip it to find the problem you could do this yourself for free they are a little more complex having 4 cam chains but like I said it's not rocket science it's just a matter of finding out we're the metal flakes have come from if you do any advice if you get round to it in the future don't hesitate to get in touch
Ps forgot to add it took me nearly 4 years to complete mine with other projects on the go but we'll worth it they are a great ride
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Just put it on the back burner for a bit and even if you take it to a bike mechanic they would need to strip it to find the problem you could do this yourself for free they are a little more complex having 4 cam chains but like I said it's not rocket science it's just a matter of finding out we're the metal flakes have come from if you do any advice if you get round to it in the future don't hesitate to get in touch
Ps forgot to add it took me nearly 4 years to complete mine with other projects on the go but we'll worth it they are a great ride
Ok many thanks for the offer. I really appreciate all the help so far.

Thanks,

Pete
 

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Would the engine out of a 1990 vn 750 fit in my 1993 bike?
To my knowledge, they were cross compatible from '86 to '05. The '85 700cc might even fit.
 

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Yep - I don't think there's anything about the 700 that would be a problem. It's amazing how little Kawasaki touched these things over two decades.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
What would someone's best guess be for the total PARTS only cost for a full engine rebuild (worst case scenario)

Thanks,

Pete
 

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A rough guess the gaskets about£100 4 cam chains at £20 each after that depends on what you find when you open it up
Just had a look cam chains £93 for the 4
 

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If you have the motor open check the stator. The OEM replacement part is pricey. Folks on here have mentioned a few other cheaper alternatives, but the few mechanics I’ve talked to adamantly suggest going with OEM only. Partzilla seems to have the best prices for OEM stuff that I’ve found. Don’t forget gaskets if you decide to do so. Also there’s a section on the forum called “Vulcan Verses” which basically outlines all the “quirks” and known issues for these bikes with fixes and workarounds. I’m taking my bike to a shop today to get the stator replaced because I have no place to tear it down and do it myself. I’m content paying for this repair because I didn’t pay a whole lot for the bike, but this is the last big repair I do before I slap a “For Sale” sign on it lol. Any other big issues pop up then it’ll be time for a trade in. When these bikes run they’re a blast
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Evening all,

I haven't really done much more work on my bike.

I did however buy a 2nd hand ignition coil which the seller stated was in working order. Im still not getting any spark from either plug in the 2nd cylinder (rear cylinder). The coil is slightly smaller than my original one some I'm wondering if its the wrong coil?

I also took the engine stator cover off again and noticed fragments of metal attached/ attracted to the stator/ flywheel. Can bits of metal get into this area when the engine oil is moving around the engine, or is it likely something has happened to my stator/ flywheel. I appreciate the answer is going to probably be take the stator and flywheel out but I don't have much time to play in the garage at the moment so I thought id ask the question incase anyones had similar issues.

Thanks,

Pete
 

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Pete from what you say the engine needs to come out and taken apart to find out we're the metal parts have come from with the engine out you can take the main outer cases off and have a look if you can't find anything there you would then need to take the cyl heads and barrels off to split the main case if your unsure at all pm your number and I can talk you though it
 

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With the metal shavings the first thing I think of in that area, damper gears. The damper bushings wear or break, then the damper gear rubs against the stator case, eventually making a large hole (pics here somewhere). The engine will vibrate much more than normal.

In the pics of the screen check, it looks like some of the damper bushing material in the mix of debris.

So if you're doing a stator, plan on $40-50 for damper bushings. And don't put the damper gear back on backwards, like I did. :) Made the bike shake like a paint shaker.

Also, metal shavings on the pickup coils might kill the spark. Might also affect the stator, not sure what testing you've done.

If the damper gear is rubbing, you don't want to start this engine yet.
 
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